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Some day, you may change your layout. After all, no layout is ever really "done." So, you may put that structure somewhere else, or turn it around so the back becomes the front. If, or when, that happens, the unfinished side is going to look pretty strange. I have a table layout, so everything can be seen from pretty much any direction. Sometimes, I put a camera in there, too, to catch a view that the eye wouldn't otherwise see. You may do this someday, so you'd might as will do
This is my basic benchwork table. It's a frame of 1x4, with 1x3 cross pieces. The 2-inch foam sits on the rafters, inside the frame and 1 inch down, giving the foam protection. The legs are 2x3, and I put wheels on the bottom of mine so I can move it around the room. It was very light, and very easy to build when I did it. With the complete layout on top, it's considerably heavier. Still, I can drag it across the carpeted floor without much difficulty. I'd consider a frame of this type
[quote user="tppytel"]Simple question, but how exactly do you assemble the frame pieces? Glue, screw, both? First the four framing pieces and then add the rafters?[/quote] First I built the outer box with the 1x4s. If you look at the current (December) issue of MR, there's a picture of a metal clamp on page 35. I bought one of these, and found it was really helpful in holding the corners square. I used both carpenters' glue and dry-wall screws, with pre-drilled holes to prevent
I agree. I've got 4 of these units in my Rivarossi passenger cars. They are designed for DC, but work just fine on DCC. These were a great deal when I bought them. But, they were slightly incompatable with the current Rivarossi cars. I had to do some minor surgery beneath the cars to get the trucks and pickups to work reliably, but I'm pretty happy with them now.
When a "supermodel" is one that is properly weathered and equipped with a Tsunami. When you decided where to buy coffee based on the kind of stirrers they provide. When you look down from a high bridge and study the roof details. When a real steam whistle will rouse you out of a sound sleep. When "making tracks" has nothing to do with leaving.
I agree with running the bulbs at below their rated voltage. After all, you are looking for the impression of street lighting here. You don't need ultra-bright lamps to help stamp out crime. How many of these do you have? They will probably draw around 30 milliamps each, so check the rating of that wall-wart. Many are below half an amp, so you may only get 10 or 12 to work before you start overloading the power supply. Test them all before you install them. It's a lot easier to do on your
I have a number of old Tyco/Mantua cars. Many of these came with "Talgo" trucks. The couplers are part of the truck, rather than being body-mounted as is more desireable. Since these are very old cars, they were equipped with horn-hooks in addition to the plastic wheels. I've cut off the coupler mounts, put Kadees on the body and now run these cars regularly. The trucks, however, are all-metal and not particularly flexible. So, I haven't been able to easily replace the wheels. I'll
I don't react badly to chemicals, but I can smell them pretty well even if they don't bother me much. (I love bicycling around dinner time and smelling what my neighbors are grilling.) I haven't picked up any particular odor from Envirotex Lite, either. I prefer not to have a lot of open windows when pouring my "water." This circulates dust and pollen, which will stick permanently to the surface. I try to put a sheet of cardboard a few inches above the surface to catch any stray
How about www.railimages.com , for Rail Images. This is the photo-hosting site that I use for the train pictures I post here. It is donor-supported, to some extent, so you can "contribute" to the hobby as a whole by sending them a few dollars to help defray costs. You will see both prototype and model trains there.
The most common fastener is latex caulk or something similar. Many of us use Liquid Nails for Projects. This is applied from a large tube with a caulking gun. The same stuff can be used to attach roadbed to the foam, and track to the roadbed.
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