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You searched for the word(s): userid:213900
A shortline railroad can be anything you want it to be. There are examples of everything being done that could possibly have been done. Your library should have a book on the subject. It's a good one, read it. For example, just north of you and a little east was the Tonopah and Tidewater, hauling gold and anything else out of Death Valley and that region. This little railroad did it on the cheap, and only bought used equipment. They touched the Santa Fe, so I imagine they got some pretty good
Farmers and plastic tanks; I'll go along with that one. We've used plastic welders for fabricating, fitting, and installing water and holding tanks on recreational vehicles. It seems like polyethlene is impervious to everything but heat. Welding and compression fittings are the only methods that work dependably. Plastic welders are not our type of hobby tool. -rr
.28 is 280 thousands of an inch in diameter, which is thirty thousands over 1/4 inch in diameter, which is pretty big for micro drill bits, and Chinese dremels are only good for what they are good for; they don't adapt well, and 20k rpm is a bit fast for drilling holes, and you're not even past step one yet. Don't expect things to get better anytime soon. If you want to drill a hole today; I suggest putting your micro drill into a pin vise, chuck the pin vise into your drill motor, and
tatans wrote: Anyone know if there is a site where scale lumber equivalents are posted in English/metric/decimal ? By the way, is the U.S. the only country using English measurement?? how the he** can you measure 17/64 ths of an inch??? Midwest Scale Lumber (a brand name) lists the different scales and actual measurements on the outside of their packages. This can be handy. Most "scale lumber" is most accurate in the 1/4" scale, and for H0 it is in terms of 1/8th" scale instead
.020 will work fine. Scalewise, it's just under 2" thick which is prototypically too thick, but easier to handle well and easier to drill for. .010 - .013 would be more prototypically accurate if you wanted to put in the work. -rr
Scale lumber can be obtained from the above sources, plus a few others not yet mentioned. If you're serious, you might want to get a sample packet of 2x4's from each manufacturer, and test it for size and workability. They are not all the same. I model in 0 scale, and it's interesting that most scale lumber is labeled in H0 sizes so I am constantly making that mental conversion. It's also interesting, the sizes are cut for 1/4" fidelity; therefore, the H0 sizes are actually 1
Where does one apply for trolldom? They are those little guys holding the signs; right? I'm going to need some for my bridges.
Never tossed one out. One time I retrieved what didn't stick to the wall, redesigned it, added a few parts, and built it like it should have been in the first place. Some kits can really test you. -rrick
SteamFreak wrote: rick bonfiglio wrote: 0 scale trucks that are sprung and equalized behave like rigid trucks because the springs are too stiff to flex. This has to be because softer springs tend to fall out when you drop the car. I'm confused. Why are you dropping your rolling stock? Inattention, negligence, butter fingers, and the attitude,"this can't happen to me."
I have had a chance to deal with some of these issues on my 0 scale trucks. That warped condition some speak of doesn't exist and must be peculiar to H0. 0 scale trucks that are sprung and equalized behave like rigid trucks because the springs are too stiff to flex. This has to be because softer springs tend to fall out when you drop the car. For these and the rigid, the solution is the same: One truck to pivot freely, and the other looser to allow the car to pivot freely. To prototypically equalize
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