|
Search
You searched for the word(s): userid:157354
I personally don't do ops at all, yet, but by all accounts modern N scale models are quite suitable for operations. The best place to ask your question would be at either the Atlas N Scale forum, or the N Scale forum on Trainboard.com Folks there can give you details.
The fact that it may get down to freezing (rarely) is why extruded foam is harder to find Florida than it is in Michigan. Expanded (i.e. bead) foam is cheaper, but not nearly as robust when it comes to freeze/thaw cycles..
Folks, I live in a "Land of Very Rare Blue Foam", and have just uncovered an opportunity to pick up a bunch of 2" thick 2x8 sheets of DOW Styrofoam, aka "blueboard", the good stuff. Unfortunately, I have zero idea of what would be a good price. So if y'all could chime in with what you've paid, or with what the going rate is in your neck 'o the woods, I'd be mighty appreciative.
Water based contact cement. I believe the 3M product mentioned earlier is such a beast. You can find it at any office supply store.
I'm not sure if what you're looking for exists, but if it does, here's the most likely place to find it: http://greenlightintermodal.info/Home_Page.php
Shrinkage of the extruded foam, whether blue (Dow) or pink (Owens Corning) is a non-issue. Seasonal shrinkage/expansion of the substrate (plywood in this case) can be an issue, but as a general rule, it won't be. Plywood is extensively used precisely because it is very stable. Minimal (less than 1%) shrinkage is possible in a module that is subject to wide swings of temperature, and more importantly, humidity. Simply use a foam safe adhesive designed specifically for mounting foam to wood, and
I'm speculating here, but it strikes me as though sealing them first will pretty much defeat the purpose of using washes. Washes work best when they can soak into a porous surface, allowing the slow building of color and variations. Seal = no soak.
Most of these are the old LifeLike N scale locos, along with some new ones since their acquisition by Walthers. As a result, you need to be specific regarding which loco you're interested in, as some are very good, some are mediocre, and some are huge disappointments. An example of the latter would be the Berkshires. Absolutely beautiful models, but they're a real bear to chip (install a decoder) and they can't pull their way out of a paper bag. LifeLike was VERY slow getting on the DCC
If you want windows, then get windows. I'm not sure if the auto-dimming feature is necessary up there in the gloomy Northwet, but you'd have a better sense of that than I. Something I would add to EVERY room of any house I built is a Solartube or skylights. For the windows, I'd make sure you have some way of covering them (drapes, blinds, newspaper and masking tape, whatever). Incorporate as many "multi-use" features in the room as you can, because its probable that at some
N Scale, Montana Rail Link, using Kato Unitrack on a black/gray board. Rearrange the track every once in a while, just like they do at the railheads in the Powder River Basin! Seriously though, the Unitrack, while expensive, will allow you to break it down, rearrange it, etc. You can set things up to play with the trains, then stash them if needed, etc. HO and N are the only practical options, you just have to decide which factor is more limiting, space or $$. Its easiest to do HO on the cheap cheap
|
By signing up I may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers from Trains.com. We don't sell,
rent, or trade our e-mail lists.
|