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[quote user="HowardL"] I have an old Bowser Pacific that is about 35 years old. Still haven't finished it. Its on my list though. I also have the old Pine Lumber locomotive, cars and caboose with the operating log dump to the mill that is fully operational. Its probably the same vintage I would guess. [/quote] I built my Bowser K4 Pacific in 1973, it's a nice kit. A year later I bought a Bowser E6 Atlantic, but changed scales before I started it. Enjoy Paul
you have more emery boards and tweezers than your wife. Enjoy Paul
Two months ago my wife and I bought our retirement home. I am now in the early stages of planning the "big" one for retirement. It will use about 850 sq ft in the 1200 sq ft basement. My goal is to have an uncomplicated layout based on the Maryland and Pennsylvania RR. In particular I want to run 15 car freight trains and have at least one train length between towns while limiting turnouts to 75. Since my biggest layout to date has been 14x23 ft this will be a step up. But I've always
The next New thing will be smells. You can see the locomotive, you can hear it, but you can't smell it (unless you have a short in the engine). Imagine a train of stock cars going by with smells. There will of course be the usual arguments between the smells crowd and the no smells crowd. Enjoy Paul
Oldest in current use is an NMRA special run from Pacific Rails for a Gorre & Daphtid 1937 AAR boxcar kit. First pieces I got and still have but not in use are a Tyco 4-6-0 and some Tyco freight cars. On the used market I have picked up some Kinsman, Northeast, Ambroid, Mainline, and Roundhouse kits over the years but I don't know when they were new. Enjoy Paul
I have found that using finishing nails for glue joints is as effective as screws. But drill pilot holes through both pieces before applying the glue. The glue makes the wood very slippery and trying to nail it together with glue on it is difficult. Use a bit slightly narrower than the nail. Enjoy Paul
All scales have advantages and disadvantages. Currently, 6 scales (Z, N, HO, S, O, and G or Large Scale) have adequate commercial support although they probably aren't all at your LHS. That is they have track, turnouts, locomotives, cars, structures, etc. from several companies. TT, between N and HO, has limited support. In general, larger scales favor building with easier to handle pieces and greater detailing possibilities and the trains have a greater presence. Smaller scales favor long trains
[quote user="steinjr"] To give a rough impression of #56 from 101TP, here is a thumbnail image from http://www.trainplayer.com : So, dj - what type of railroad are you wanting to model ? Smile, Stein [/quote] That's the one. I just don't have my 101 Trackplans handy. It always struck me as a pretty good plan for large locomotives in a small space. Enjoy Paul
101 Trackplans has a 6x12 with broad curves and a large turntable. IIRC it's a double track oval mainline with turntable and roundhouse. Also has a small yard and some switching. Not a very complicated plan, but a good one for running large locomotives. Enjoy Paul
If you can, I recommend you go to a train show that has display layouts in different scales. The scales with sufficient commercial support are Z, N, HO, S, O, and G (also called Large Scale). If you like building more than running trains then the larger scales (O, G) may be more enjoyable. If you want to run really long trains or have limited space the small scales (Z, N) may be your best bet. HO and S are in the middle if you want to do some of each. Narrow gauge is also a possibility for all scales
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