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The above links show the later version with sintered drivers. The part number for the baldwin disk motor assembly is 675m-1. This motor was also used in 224 and 225 prewar locomotives. The early version will run smoother. I have both early and late versions if you can't find one.
Sounds like a 224. Baldwin drivers are the proof. On the prewar version, if you look at the top of the boiler you will see a phillips head screw which fits into a "dimple". A 1666 will not have the phillips head screw visible. Obviously this probably wasn't try of all production, but it is true on my current fleet.
To each his own, but after finding the car, thinking too much money was paid for it, then clear coat it? Office joke? Write an article about paying too much for a $20.00 car, then devalue it. I don't get it...
[quote user="jefelectric"] I get the impression that Carl just collects for his own enjoyment and doesn't really worry about how much the car might bring at resale. It just a toy guys! [/quote] Agreed, but why complain about the asking price then? If one is just going to modify the car anyway, why not look for a junker? The only thing I can think of is making a magazine article. If that's the case, fine, but again, really? My point is, the writer of the article thought the asking
Frank, That is outstanding! Two questions, both of which I can't quite tell from the pictures: 1. Did you built a deck to go under the track or not? 2. Because your trestles are on a curve, did you come up with a formula for what angle to cut the cross braces, did you sand them to fit, or just use 90 degree's and leave a gap? I'm getting close to where I need to build a curved trestle using the Grand Central Gems pieces from Scenic Express, and am not quite sure of the degree I will need
Thank You Frank! That last picture showed me what I wanted to know. Again, that's one nice trestle. I hope mine turns out as well...
Getting back to your engine... Be advised that most engines drive wheels, with a can motor/internal worm gear drive system, from any manufacturer, can only be turned either with track power or removing the shell and turning the flywheel by hand. Some new people to the hobby think that if the wheels won't turn the engine is broken. An engine with spur gears, on the other hand, will usually have hand-turnable wheels. On a side note, don't buy from this seller again. Since the wheels won't
Well, you've picked the hardest building out there to paint, in my opinion. The DSL buildings are beautiful when done, though. There are instructions that come with the kit, and they must be followed to the letter! You MUST clean the casting in mineral spirits. When you think they are clean enough, clean them again. When that is done, clean it one more time. No joke. I used Krylon primer on mine, and let it dry for a week. After that, any paint will work. I'd look into Floquil or Model Masters
Just wondering, what happened to your 080? I can't think of anything that would damage it to the point of being unrepairable. Motors can be replaced, and I would think Lionel has some parts available for this engine. If you can post what is wrong with it, someone might be able to help you fix the one you have.
Didn't Lionel make a seperate sale Lionel Lines version for seperate sale? Seems like if your tender is still good, you could just use it instead of the Lionel Lines tender, and have a spare for a future custom repaint. I just went and checked my Santa Fe version, which I had apart a couple weeks ago to service, and am wondering how carpet got into the gears? Mine is a worm drive with no gears exposed. My question has nothing to do with the above posts, and I'm not doubting you, just interested
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