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Welcome to sunny Arizona, Jerry. Your are gonna love it here. I moved to Mesa from Oakbrook, IL in 1984, just 25 years ago come November 1. Have lived in Sunny Scottsdale, AZ for 20 years, and love it. As you have probably heard it is a dry heat, normally when it is 110 the humidity is only 8 to 14 percent. Believe me a lot more comfortable than the summer I spent in St. Louis at 100 degrees plus and 98 percent humidity. I have insulated and air conditioned my garage with window air condidtioners
I have both the PRR MP54 and Reading MU commuters with car to car roof top connectors. As soon as I get them lubed and tuned I will be putting them on e-bay. They are custom painted with correct road numbers. Watch for them
The yellowing ocurrs with age and exposure to light and heat over time on acrylic and similar clear plastic products . As a retired illuminating engineer, I can advise that acrylics, i.e. Lucite and Plexiglas are inherently clear, and do not discolor even under the UV situation found in lighting fixtures with fluorescent lamps. There are no "similar plastics" to Acrylics which are a proprietory product of DuPont. If you notice lighting fixtures with yellowed prismatic lens covers, they
On my last layout, I used 1/2 inch plwood (5 plys) topped by Homosote road bed. I used a saber saw to cut the plywould about 1/2 inch wider that the homesote on both sides so that I had a place to staple the scenery screen base. I also used a sabre saw to cut out the road bed fom the homosote which was a 1/4 inch wider on both sides than the ties. I glued Cover House wood ties and spiked down Code 100 brass rail. The only problem was that most of the layout was double tracked and there was a flat
I agree with you, a model railroad wihout signalling is really half baked. My last layout had seven blocks using the NMRA TwinT detector with a 3PDT relay. In order for the signals to turn from red to yellow to green, the wiring must be such that when the signal drops from green to red, the following signal changes from green to yellow. This is accomplished by wiring the relays back one so that if there is a red, the signal following will display a yellow rather than the green. I also used the third
I prefer to use white vinigar as a retardent. It makes a big differance in setting time, but doesn't affect the casting. Cold water helps, to retard setitng as well, the warmer the water the quicker will be the setting time. The chemical reaction causes heat.
HO brass was three NH box-cab electrics, and an NH caboose. If you have no use for these please e-mail me.
My last layout was a dogbone built in a "J" shape. The lower level staging was at the top left of the upper cross piece of the "J" it emerged to run along the 25 foot wall on the right and then across the opposite wall to a penninsula rising gradually as it went and interweaving with the lower level to look like it was two railroads competing for the same space. It ended back on top of the starting staging yards with a ballon and a huge pasenger terminal over 12 feet long. It
[quote user="ef3 yellowjacket"] Rusty; Ont station that has always "grabbed" me was the Bridgeport station. Wasn't the track laid down on an all-wood structure, with wood between the rails? Walking between tracks, both the prospect of a EF-4, etc, bearing down on you at 35MPH (remembering the Jenkins Curve incident), or even with 11,000VAC@25 cycles dangling above your head might dictate you to be really careful... By the way; I do a lot of service work in Fairfield and Westchester
If you enlarge this picture to the highest resolution you just make out the fencing between the tracks at the Bridgeport Station http://memory.loc.gov/pnp/habshaer/ct/ct0300/ct0338/photos/024075pv.jpg
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