HOWTO : Easy Benchwork Using Metal Shelf Brackets
with Pictures (see below)
Perhaps you are considering building a model railroad, or maybe adding an upper deck to an existing layout. One option to consider is the use of common Metal Shelf Brackets, available at most so-called "big-box" stores for about $5-10 bucks per pilaster (upright) and about $3.50-10 bucks for the brackets, depending on what size you want / need. It is quite probable that the same pilasters and brackets are available elsewhere online, ebay perhaps, for less money. In my case I already had them laying around so the cost wasn't a huge factor. If you do use the brackets, I recommend the ones with the dual-channel (two sets of vertical slots) for two reasons: (1) because they're stronger; and (2) because they have more lateral stability. Reason #2 isn't as important if you're planning on adding any horizontal support. But it is very important if you are not.
In my case I purchased the six-foot pilasters (uprights) and used a saw with a metal-cutting blade to chop them into three 21-1/2 inch segments. (One segment is slightly longer, if this matters to you, just cut off the extra hole). At $10 bucks a pilaster, that works out to about $3.33 per upright, which seems reasonable to me. If you're going to support TWO decks however, you'll of course want to use them full-length which will incur greater cost.
Use a ruler and a level to mark the locations for the pilasters. I measured down from the ceiling since in my case the floor of the basement was not exactly level all the way around. I marked the location of the center hole for each pilaster, at the location of each wall stud. In my case the studs are located on about 24 inch centers which is a good spacing for the brackets. Depending on what you build on top of the brackets you can probably go even wider, perhaps as much as 36 inches between brackets.
Use long screws to screw them directly into the wall studs. In my case I used 3-inch "wallboard style" screws. Make sure you fasten them tightly to the wall studs so they can't move. What I do is put the screw onto the screwdriver bit (chucked into a hand drill for convenience), hold the pilaster up to the wall so that the center hole aligns with the mark you made, and then carefully screw the pilaster to the stud. Leave it just a little loose for adjustment-- we'll come back to it in a moment. I also recommend wearing sturdy gloves, at least for the hand that's holding the pilaster. The bit can sometimes slip and generally the closest target is your finger-- not pleasant!! Use a spirit level to align the pilaster so that it is straight up and down. When you get it aligned correctly, screw the top screw into the stud and then go back and tighten up the one in the center. If the pilaster has a bottom screw hole, put a screw in that one now.
When you have finished your SECOND pilaster, put in a couple of temporary brackets and use your spirit level to make certain you installed them correctly-- i.e. level across. Push the level all the way to the rear of the bracket where the bracket meets the pilaster. Most brackets are angled upwards for greater load-carrying capacity. This is what makes them somewhat problematic to use for building model train layouts. When you are sure you've got the pilasters installed correctly, continue to the next one. After each one, test it for level against one of the ones you put up previously, until all of them have been installed.
Now you're ready to "adapt" the brackets to wood so that you can employ more traditional layout construction methods.
First install a pair of metal brackets side-by-side and clamp a piece of wood to each one. The wood should be the length equal to the depth of your layout segment along that portion of the wall. If you want to utilize a front-buffer and/or fascia, compute those measurements and subtract them from the length of the wood clamped to the brackets.
Next place a spirit level across the two brackets. It should be resting on the surface of the wood clamped to the bracket and raised just barely above the height of the metal brackets. It should read level from side-to-side, between the brackets. If your brackets are angled upwards, one end of the wood will be higher relative to the bracket than the other end. That's expected and normal. Then take your spirit level (it helps to have two but you can get by with just one) and place it perpendicularly to the first along the length of the wood clamped to the bracket. It should also be level front-to-back. So if you have two levels, one should read level side-to-side and be resting just above the top surface of the metal brackets, and the other should read level from front-to-back and be resting along the length of the wooden cantilever.
When you have everything level, carefully mark the position of the wood relative to the bracket and determine where you can drill some holes to mount the wood to the bracket. In my case I used 1-1/2 inch hex bolts with a washer on either end and a lock-washer behind the nut to hold it in place. I also cut a 1/2 inch spacer and placed it inside the metal bracket to keep it from being crushed when I tightened up the bolt. Its probably not strictly necessary that you do this but it will probably look better if the bracket isn't crushed or warped out of alignment.
Its probably also a good idea to number each pilaster, metal bracket, and wooden cantilever with the same number, incrementing them successively as you go around the room, so that you can be sure each is matched-up in their original locations after you drill the holes and bolt them together.
Drill the holes carefully. Be sure to align the wood to the metal bracket exactly as you had it clamped to the pilaster so everything will line up correctly when you bolt it together. I made a little jig using some leftover pilaster pieces and some wood to help me get and keep everything aligned while I drilled the holes. Also remember that you are drilling metal so you'll want to do something to keep your drill bit cool. I used WD40 when I did it. Some people use light-gauge machine oil.
Just *BE CAREFUL*!! Drilling through metal makes everything heat up, especially the drill bit, and both WD40 and machine oil are flammable!! I've never had anything bad happen to me personally, but just be aware that something *could* happen and take appropriate precautions. Wear eye-protection and gloves too. You never know.
Okay, enough talking-- here are some photos to illustrate the process and the finished result.
1. Overview showing tools and overall concept:
2. Close-up
3. Metal-Side View
4. Wood Side View
5. Close-up of Finished Bracket
The photos you see above are the mock-ups of the concept I made prior to building the actual deck. Many of the brackets I have are a little too long for the wooden cantilever so I had to cut them down a little. There's plenty of bracket there and they are *very* strong so you can cut them back quite a ways if you have to. I have heard the rule of thumb is to have about 2/3's support for the total depth of the cantilevered shelf. So if you have a three-foot shelf, to make the numbers easy, you should have at least two-feet of support.
Another item I should mention, an option really. Once you get your brackets constructed you may want to add a horizontal stabilizer and/or a front-fascia. You can add the stabilizer anywhere you like. Just put it where you want it and screw it to the wooden part of the bracket. But if you want a front fascia, here's an easy idea to do both. Make a cleat (a small block of wood) and glue/screw it to the tip-end of the wooden part of the bracket-- along the side, not straight onto the end (sorry, no picture for this yet). You may have to cut the metal part of the bracket back if you have the wrong size like I do, so that everything will fit. Line it up square and then glue and screw it to the wood. Then you can attach your horizontal support and/or fascia to the cleat and its very easy to do and work with. You can also attach your track wiring and whatnot directly behind it for easy access later on. I'm also going to put a low-profile lamp socket on the back of mine and put a low-wattage "daylight style" Compact Fluorescent bulb in it. Low heat output, low watts usage-- nice light output. Easy assembly. Wire it up and you're done.
Now lay some track and go run some trains!
I hope this helps somone. Feel free to ask questions or make suggestions.
John
Great How-To post! Thanks!
The only thing I would change is the use of Drywall screws. These screws are notoriously weak. I have popped the heads right off when tightening them down. Instead I would use a plated screw with a Robertson head. The screws will be stronger and you won't need gloves while driving them as the bit will not slip out of the screw.
That's a great explanation.
I'm doing nearly the same thing.
I/m double-decking, and using the dual channel "standards" as a replacement for angle brackets I made out of 1x4 wood. I'm using the 48" size because it allows me to have my upper deck around 57" (I'm tall, and with this method I can even adjust later) and the lower about 38". I have enough left going down towards (but not to) the floor to mound another shelf for storage. Not going all the way saves $ on the length of the bracket, and who needs a shelf 2" off the floor?
I was planning on putting a 1x2 edge-wise on top of the actual bracket and using the supplied screw holes because mine comes out level as it is, and it looks like yours do too, or are pretty darn close. I also have 1" wide shim stock if necessary.
My actual benchwork is 24" hollow core doors and one 36" door in a bay window.
Some of the new lower "visible staging" and branch level will be 16-18" deep to clear a TV, desk and workbench.
BTW, There are at least two vendors. Closet Maid and one called Knape & Vogt. The Knape &Vogt is about 2/3 the cost of the other and virtually identical. Locally the 48" standard is about $6 and 12" and 14" brackets are $5 and $7 respectively. I did try pricing on-line and even at the quantity i needed for my 15'x19' layout, the shipping ate up the savings and it was a wash versus going to Lowes.
I got my doors "scratch and dent" at lowes for $8 each, and I'm getting a few more for the lower level, from "Broke and Poor" for $5-10 each.
I figure an average of $40-45 per two level section isn't too bad. It looks great, even during construction. It's portable. It's adjustable, and it's QUICK.
Peace-
John,
Great minds think alike! I started using metal shelf brackets about a year ago when I started my upper level portion of my layout. They work fantastic and I extended them up so that I can attach my backdrop when I'm ready to do so. I attached my benchwork butt joint construction a little differently than yours. I used a small furring strip laid at the very end (and across) all the brackets. There's a small pre-drilled hole already there in the bracket and I just used a 1/2 inch drywall screw to secure the strip to the bracket. Once that is in, I lift the butt joint section of the benchwork up onto the brackets and insert 1 1/4 inch screws through the furring strip into the cross members of the benchwork from below. Nice and secure now. Your method looks great too, though.
Chris
I'm about two years into a double-deck HO layout using John Sterling shelf components. In my case, I'm doing it directly onto the basement cinderblock wall. I used the 6' long cross piece "hangers" on the top and used concrete screws and a hammer drill to put it in place. Once that is level and in place, the uprights can hang there and get moved to the proper position and then they are similarly screwed in place. If the top hanger is level, all the uprights will be level so you really don't need to do more with the level etc.
BTW I used the longest uprights which are about 6' IIRC. Top to bottom I have a shelf where the lights for the upper level are attached (and which can be used as high level storage), then the two levels of the layout, and then a lower level a few inches off the floor for more storage. The lower level will eventually be hidden by a drape or covering of some kind.
I found some pre-cut garden stakes that are made from 1" x 3" pieces cut to about 12" lengths. I screw those onto the top of all the brackets. The brackets have two holes in the bottom of the bracket, I made a little template to mark each 1" x 3" so I can drill pilot holes for the wood screws.
Then I use 16" by 36" shelf pieces laid directly on top of them, with the uprights and brackets at 18" spacing. That way, the shelf pieces joint is always at a bracket, and I can run a couple of screws from below to hold the shelf in place. I find no other bracing necessary.
For a fascia I attached 1" by 2" pieces (longer garden stakes) below the front edge of the shelf (since the 1x3s are about 12" they leave an inch or two on the back so you can attach them to the upright, and an inch or so in front clear too) and then added the fascia surface to that.
A great thing about the shelf-benchwork is you can change the height of sections as you build along, so you can have one section lower to allow for a bridge over a river etc.
JSperanGreat How-To post! Thanks!The only thing I would change is the use of Drywall screws. These screws are notoriously weak. I have popped the heads right off when tightening them down. Instead I would use a plated screw with a Robertson head. The screws will be stronger and you won't need gloves while driving them as the bit will not slip out of the screw.
I have heard that about drywall screws, but have not experienced it myself. If anything the opposite- I have to be careful to set the torque on the drill to about 15-16 so that I don't put the screw straight through the wood. Similar thing when putting up the shelf pilasters- I have to be careful not to run the screw all the way through the hole. I have some pilasters that I've had to go back and fix with washers because of that. But, I will say that I've had a nasty smashed finger or two when the screwdriver bit jumped off the head of the screw and into my finger holding something up. Screwing my finger to the wall is definitely *not* part of the project plan! Wear sturdy gloves when working. I found out the hard way-- OUCH!!!!
Are the Robertson heads the square ones, like you use for concrete board?
jwhittenI have heard that about drywall screws, but have not experienced it myself. If anything the opposite- I have to be careful to set the torque on the drill to about 15-16 so that I don't put the screw straight through the wood
Depends on the hardness of the wood. For most benchwork we use pine (which is soft). I've put drywall screws into hardwood like oak or maple and when I've tried to remove the screws I ripped the heads off. If you're using pine 1x4s or 1x3s you're more than fine with drywall screws.
1948PRRI was planning on putting a 1x2 edge-wise on top of the actual bracket and using the supplied screw holes because mine comes out level as it is, and it looks like yours do too, or are pretty darn close. I also have 1" wide shim stock if necessary.
Well, necessity was the mother of invention in this case, that and hindsight-- you know, the 20-20 part. After constructing a really nice deck made completely out of wood, I let go the cribbing and wondered "now how will I support the middle???" It didn't sag much, but it was more than I wanted. I also used 1x4 and a 1x3 together in an "L-girder" type configuration. I was originally going to use the el-cheapo screw-into-the-wall type brackets but discovered they really didn't have enough strength for the job, even in tandem, and distributed along the wall. So I tried a pair of the dual-channel metal shelf brackets and was pleasantly surprised to discover that just two of them were easily capable of supporting the whole structure (approx 20 foot span) in the middle with *NO* sag and nearly no vibration.
The ends were attached to the walls, so that was additional bracing of course. But the big thing that bugged me was when I tested it out with some 2-inch pink foam on each deck how little room there was inbetween to work and how much it blocked the view. Even though I knew it conceptually as I was building it, when I saw it for real, and how much the metal brackets holding up the top deck encroached into the air-space of the bottom deck-- I knew I wasn't happy.
So a day or two of head-scratching and suddenly it was totally obvious what the solution should be... i.e., what I wrote up. And I was able to lose about 1-1/2 inches from the height of the wooden portion of the upper deck benchwork. And regained nearly the total area underneath except for just a tiny little triangle that's not even noticeable. Probably the backdrop will cover it or nearly so. Whichever, it definitely won't be an issue.
And the thing that I like is that after building it and seeing how darned *strong* it is, with a little lateral (horizontal) support, I'll have essentially an open-grid benchwork and can easily use spline and hardshell construction anywhere I want to, or pink foam if I prefer. I have retained all my options. And I like that idea. I plan to utilize both methods of construction, as seems appropriate.
I considered doing both decks the same way and the reason I did not was strength and stabilty. Even though the shelf brackets are plenty strong, I wanted the lower benchwork to be built "like a rock". I have two little boys who will be growing up around the layout. While I don't want anything bad to happen to the layout (or my boys) I just know there is going to come the time where I'll find them hanging from the sides or climbing on it or something of the sort, and I want everyone and everything to survive the experience. Plus its more immune to jolts, bumps and shocks. If that becomes a problem / threat for the upper deck, I'll install some "shielding" around it to protect it-- direct the bumps and vibrations around the deck instead of through it.
I feel like I have succeeded at last in achieving all the objectives I have set for myself in building the benchwork. I still have a bit more to go before I'm done. A little more of the lower-deck, the center peninsula which will include a two-loop hidden helix. And then the area on the other side of the basement which will include the loop through the office area and back around, which will all be built at a higher level, approx the same level as the upper portion of the double-decked area. And then finally the multi-looped elongated helix hidden in the mechanical room that connects the decks together. When all that's completed, I will add some additional staging either hidden behind the landforms up against the backdrops, or below key areas of the layout. There is also one other location in the basement I've had my eye on for staging-- but have not hammered it out yet with my wife. (Choosing my battles expeditiously :-) If I get that then I'll have another 20 feet or so, which could be double-decked, I could use-- the issue with it, in my head, is that I think I'd have to make it collapsible and mobile in order to get it "approved". So that's another "think" at some point in the future.
PRR_in_AZjwhittenI have heard that about drywall screws, but have not experienced it myself. If anything the opposite- I have to be careful to set the torque on the drill to about 15-16 so that I don't put the screw straight through the wood Depends on the hardness of the wood. For most benchwork we use pine (which is soft). I've put drywall screws into hardwood like oak or maple and when I've tried to remove the screws I ripped the heads off. If you're using pine 1x4s or 1x3s you're more than fine with drywall screws. Chris
Yeah, I look at the oak and maple and drool. But the big-box mafia has it so expensive I can't even begin to consider it. When I was a kid lumber was dirt cheap. Not so anymore. At least not around here-- Northern VA / D.C. metro area. Its all I can do to afford their cheap-- insert epithet here-- pine stock at outrageous prices.
Actually I prefer the pine. Plenty strong for what we're doing and if you're fussy about the wood you select you can find it relatively straight (I use the term relatively very loosely).
jwhittenAre the Robertson heads the square ones, like you use for concrete board?
Yes, square drive.
Robertson Screws
In regards to hand injuries, yes I find the Phillips head driver bits to inflict more damage than the square head will if it ever pops out of the screw head. Of course, since a Robertson screw is self centering and easlily driven one handed, there's no reason to have that other hand in the way in the first place. No sense ruining a perfectly good pair of gloves either. ;o)
In my shop Drywall screws are used for Drywall/Sheetrock. All other Phillips head screws typically are tossed in the scrap metal bin to be recycled and made into something useful. Really the only thing worse than a Phillips screw is a flat blade screw, precisely what inspired Robertson to make his screw.
PRR_in_AZActually I prefer the pine. Plenty strong for what we're doing and if you're fussy about the wood you select you can find it relatively straight (I use the term relatively very loosely). Chris
I don't mind the pine generically, but when I started this I had hoped I could build the lower deck out of a sturdier wood, at least the essential elements of it. But when I priced it-- Whooo! Forget that! :-)
JSperanIn regards to hand injuries, yes I find the Phillips head driver bits to inflict more damage than the square head will if it ever pops out of the screw head. Of course, since a Robertson screw is self centering and easlily driven one handed, there's no reason to have that other hand in the way in the first place. No sense ruining a perfectly good pair of gloves either. ;o)
Heh, I encountered them for the first time not too long ago. I picked up a box to use and thought to myself "Gee, I wonder if anybody else knows about this !?!?"
I was first introduced to the best method of fastening two things together back in the '50's, (That's the 1950's, NOT the 1850's) when I started as a Fitters Helper with the Gas Company up here in Toronto, Canada. It was in widespread use in the Gas Industry at that time and had been for some time. She who must be obeyed just piped up and said that even she knew about Robertson Screws way back then.
In my humble opinion, they should outlaw straight bladed and Phillips screws for most applications.
Blue Flamer.
Thanks for the great how to article. At the moment I'm sitting in my partially furnished eventual retirement home drooling. I will have a 9 x 15 around the room shelf layout, single level in HO. This could definitely be my solution. I have a couple of questions. I have two places where I must be able to lift approximately 3 foot sections out occasionally (an electrical panel and the entrance to the room). Do you think I could double up the uprights next to each other so that I have one for the permanent section and one for the lift out? Also do you have a photo of a section where you have the railroad base and fascia in place? I'm thinking of making mine with 1/4 inch plywood and 2 inch foam glued on top.
To the other contributors to the thread, one of the great things about John's article is the use of all of the photos. It would be great if you could post photos of your alternatives. To me at least, the picture is worth a thousand words when it comes to construction.
Thanks again John.
Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
Blue FlamerIn my humble opinion, they should outlaw straight bladed and Phillips screws for most applications.
You said it!
Indeed the Robertson screw is catching on. Even Norm Abrams from This Old House and The New Yankee Workshop is using them.
A most excellent presentation! The attached wooden cantilevers are a nice touch because you can then attach anything you want plus it has to make the bracket more secure.
CR&T benchwork construction will not be attached to the walls, but; will be using shelf bracket arrangements for the upper level & staging sub-level -- with more traditional L-Girder & Cookie-Cutter benchwork for the lower level and helix which will serve as anchors for the shelf brackts to either side of the helix.
Don Spiro wrote a detailed 4-part series in 2005 Railroad Model Craftsman (Sept. - Oct. - Nov. - Dec) for the shelf bracket system, using box-grid on the brackets, varying shelf heights for rivers, and how to produce forced-perspective scenery on that narrow shelf layout. There was a nice 9-page July 2009 RMC, "Shallow-relief structures," as a follow-up.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
tgindyThe attached wooden cantilevers are a nice touch because you can then attach anything you want plus it has to make the bracket more secure.
Yes, that was the principle benefit that I saw with it too. Plus its very strong in relation to its height profile which makes it pretty much perfect for the upper deck where you're fighting for every quarter-inch you can get.
Agreed this is a great presentation. I haven't used it for a shelf railroad, but I've put up plenty of those shelf things up around the house. I've had enough of the single-slot brackets bend that I wouldn't recommend them for anything.
I might make the uprights go several inches below the bracket, I like to have a margin to minimize chance of distortion on the channel.
Great set of levels shown in the pix. Wonderful tools. But for a long straight stretch, I would consider setting the ends first and using a chalk line to mark the in-betweens. (If you don't trust a laser or string level for the distance, the old clear tubing and water trick might be the best way to mark distant ends.
tcf511 Thanks for the great how to article. At the moment I'm sitting in my partially furnished eventual retirement home drooling. I will have a 9 x 15 around the room shelf layout, single level in HO. This could definitely be my solution. I have a couple of questions. I have two places where I must be able to lift approximately 3 foot sections out occasionally (an electrical panel and the entrance to the room). Do you think I could double up the uprights next to each other so that I have one for the permanent section and one for the lift out? Also do you have a photo of a section where you have the railroad base and fascia in place? I'm thinking of making mine with 1/4 inch plywood and 2 inch foam glued on top.To the other contributors to the thread, one of the great things about John's article is the use of all of the photos. It would be great if you could post photos of your alternatives. To me at least, the picture is worth a thousand words when it comes to construction.Thanks again John.
This shelf-bracket concept, sans the wood, was my first idea for building a layout. I'm not the first person to think of it of course, but it seemed like a really good solution to me. I built a "test layout" using the shelf brackets, 1/4 inch masonite sheets, and 2 inch pink foam to try out the concepts. It turned out to be really easy. The biggest thing to mention is to make sure to do a good job hanging the pilasters as they are not infinitely adjustable. The slots are about 1/2 or an inch apart (I'm guessing, I haven't measured them). Whatever it is, that's your level of adjustment and its enough to cause problems if the standards are not installed level (between them) with each other.
I built the test layout on 24 inch centers, like the current one I'm building-- same room, same studs. I have heard other people say they just lay the pink foam directly onto the standards, but I didn't like that. It didn't exactly sag but I was never really convinced of its strength. It probably was sturdy enough but it always seemed a little wobbly without under-support. But the 1/4 inch masonite was more than adequate. The only other thing I would do is glue the foam to the masonite. And if you're not going from a wall to a wall, it would probably be a good idea to do something to add lateral support. Anchoring the masonite to the brackets would be sufficient. Or you could run a 1x2 flat across them or something similar. If your brackets are angled up, as so many are, you might want to run a 1x2 across the brackets anyway, toward the back, just to even things up. I think one of the other respondents mentioned doing that as well.
I have not yet finished adapting all the brackets on my layout, though I do have them all up now. But I will be happy to update the post with some more photos when I get to that step.
I'm like you, a picture tells me a lot. That's why I wanted to put this HOWTO out there, so people could see it.
Philly BillAgreed this is a great presentation. I haven't used it for a shelf railroad, but I've put up plenty of those shelf things up around the house. I've had enough of the single-slot brackets bend that I wouldn't recommend them for anything.
Agreed. I wouldn't recommend those single-slot brackets for this application. Although I suppose you could probably adapt them to wood in a similar manner and then apply some sort of lateral bracing and it wouldn't be completely terrible. But the dual-channel brackets have a lot of strength and a modest amount of lateral-swing protection on their own.
Philly BillI might make the uprights go several inches below the bracket, I like to have a margin to minimize chance of distortion on the channel.
Well, two things, not sure which was the bigger factor-- first, I'm a cheapskate. The idea of buying an upright and cutting it into pieces was very appealing, for getting the cost down. But secondly, I want to run a hidden track along the wall on the bottom deck and didn't want the standards in the way. I left enough underneath that I can use it to help anchor the backdrop when the time comes.
But yes, I do agree with you that all things being equal, additional support down below would have been nice. I don't think its going to be a problem though. The whole thing seems pretty well anchored to the wall.
Philly BillGreat set of levels shown in the pix. Wonderful tools. But for a long straight stretch, I would consider setting the ends first and using a chalk line to mark the in-betweens. (If you don't trust a laser or string level for the distance, the old clear tubing and water trick might be the best way to mark distant ends.
For setting the standards, I did all the measuring before-hand. For adjusting the height and front-to-back level of the wooden arms, the levels worked better.
I am doing just that already with my own framework design. I do NOT perm-attach to the brackets, the frame simply lays on it. My trackplan still isn't finalized and my design allows quick changes and moving around. I can take the shelf module down to a table work space and work on the module up close upside down (the module) and I don't hang underneath benchwork to work on it, very easy to work on electrical and close up details.
The design is pretty open ended to do whatever your mounting needs are, you can even do a form of L-Girder support for track.
Another bonus for those who anticipate having to relocate their layout is that backdrops can be attached to the standards with magnets. In a previous venture I dabbled in graphic arts for trade shows and the show booth graphics were laminated paper print jobs attached to the metal framework of the booth with cheap self stick magnetic strips (available at Wally-world or any crafts supply house). Being magnetic allowed for easy re-alignment for exact matching if using pre-printed backgrounds. Keeps from having to re-paint walls after the layout is removed. Also allows you to paint backdrops without having to reach over you layout, especially if you built you layout first and as an afterthought put your backdrop on the layout. I painted my backdrops on foam core board and "stuck" them to the standards after I laid my track. Be sure to prime/seal both sides of your foam core board or it may swell and warp, even if you are laminating pre-printed backdrops to the foam core board. If you have access to a continuous laminating machine, pre printed backdrops could be attached (laminated) to the uprights and tension can be adjusted by sliding the magnets to the outer edges of the standard so there are no ripples or sags. if needed a piece of steel sheet metal could be added on top of the standard to allow greater surface area to make adjustments. I have even made do with just plain light blue poster board and magnets in some areas of the layout until I had time to paint what I wanted. For initial fit. stick magnet to standard with adhesive side out, and fit the backdrop in place to the magnet, trim backdrop as necessary.
I once caught a train in my pajama's. How it got in my pajama's I'll never know... (sorry, Groucho)
dinwittyI am doing just that already with my own framework design. I do NOT perm-attach to the brackets, the frame simply lays on it. My trackplan still isn't finalized and my design allows quick changes and moving around. I can take the shelf module down to a table work space and work on the module up close upside down (the module) and I don't hang underneath benchwork to work on it, very easy to work on electrical and close up details.The design is pretty open ended to do whatever your mounting needs are, you can even do a form of L-Girder support for track.
My original thoughts were along those lines. However, when I figured out about bolting the wood to the sides of the brackets, it occurred to me that it was plenty strong and I could eliminate nearly three inches overall (benchwork + pink foam) from the height of the top deck which I thought was a good thing because it allowed me more room underneath for the lower deck *and* allowed me to lower the top deck just a little for better viewing.
I agree if you were just going to do a single deck design that the L-girder or lightweight foam module concept would be just the ticket. And it definitely does have merit. As you pointed out, the idea of being able to pull down the module to work on it is extremely appealing. I'm not sure how exactly I'm going to handle that aspect myself. I think I'm leaning toward spline roadbed construction (mostly anyways) which make the railroad part fairly permanent. But thinking of using lightweight foam (1/2 to up to 2 inch foam) as bases for "mini-dioramas" to embed in and around the layout. Then I can work on anything just by popping it up off the layout, doing what needs to be done, and putting it back.
Just a note about drywall screws I didn't see mentioned:
If you look at the "core" of the screw (not the threads), you will see that it is a smaller diameter than the same size corresponding wood or sheet metal screw. That is why they are not as strong. I'm not sure why this is, but a guess would be to give more thread surface area "bite" into drywall. Also, they appear to be made from a more brittle material than traditional screws.
I think Simpson strong ties makes a screw for construction purposes and not drywall. They are available here in Idaho at HD. They also make a nifty metal system for making benchwork form 2x2s which could be used for anything from benchwork to bbokcases. BILL