Electronics and DCC

Hello i recently picked up 12 ho scale atlas mark3 turnouts, these have the metal frogs what kind of wiring must be done for a strictly DC layout? Is thre any special wiring need at all? are these rute selective?

thank you

mrk

 If you would like powered frogs, then you have some extra wiring to do.

Otherwise, its lay and play.

David B

 Here is a Mark 2 still in the package.  Your Mark 3 should be similar.

There are two screw holes, one on either side of the metal frog.  A screw goes through a hole, then a wire gets hooked up if you want a powered frog.  This requires some extra wiring and a switch.  The frog is dead as the switch comes out of the box.  Atlas switches are not power routing out of the box.  All routes get power.  

 Mark 3's unfortunately are not threaded (at least not the Code 83 ones). And the metal is not somethign that takes solder. However, there is some hardware that comes with the Snap-Relay (which apparantly you can buy from Atlas seperately - the hardware, not the relay) tha tmakes it easy to hook up a wire to the frog. Or DIY with a small screw, nut, and ring terminal and forget about threadign anything into the frog hole.

                                            --Randy

 Out of the package, the Mark 3 turnouts are not power routing, and have dead frogs.   No modifications are need for DC operation.   Just remember that both routes are live, and short wheelbase locomotives and those with only one truck power pick up may stall on the dead frogs.

Nick

Short wheelbased locomotives such as 0-4-0's will stop or hesitate, depending on the speed, through a number 6 or greater turnout.  I haven't had problems with a number 4 turnout but they are mainly in the yard areas.  The number 6 turnout will need to be powered since the frog is longer and has a longer dead zone.  If your switch machines have the appropriate connections, no problem, otherwise you can use the Atlas Snap Relay as a supplement to the switch machine.  Just make sure the wirng is connected right.

I've successfully tapped several of these in staging. (I prefer the look of Shinohara for visible track).  Pretty easy. Can't seem to recall if it was a 2-56 or 4-40 thread though. I ran in a brass screw from the bottom side. You can either wrap a wire or solder to the screw. Feed the frog from the aux contacts on the associated tortoise.

My only issue was pushing too hard on one and the frog came loose. A bit of CA fixed it.

Karl

An 0-80 brass screw and nut will fit through the hole in the Atlas frog with no pressure, no drilling, and no tapping. Put the nut on top, tighten it down, and solder to the screw head.Or use a miniature ring terminal, soldered in the comfort of the workbench, and no heat will need come near the frog - they do tend to pop off easily when warmed or if pushed too hard.

                                            --Randy