I am planning on converting my rolling stock to Intermountain wheelsets and read an interesting thread a few weeks ago. A couple of guys, I think Atlantic Central was one of them, mentioned that they use Intermountain wheelsets with Kadee trucks. This got me to thinking about short circuits when the wheel may touch the side of the truck. So I tested it with a Kadee metal truck and an Intermountain wheelset and did see some arcing and had a few shorts. Does painting the wheel provide enough insulation, or is something else necessary? Or are the Kadee trucks in use made of plastic instead of metal. Also, I'm assuming the MicroMark truck tuner is for plastic trucks only, or will it work on metal trucks. Thanks for any information.
Keith Baker
I would advise using plastic trucks but if you insist on metal trucks just make sure your Intermountain metal wheel sets are correctly orientated with the insulated wheels all on the same side.Oh' and I'm pretty sure the track tuner is for plastic sideframes only.
Keith,
I don't know what you did to get a short circuit. If you "tested" it not on a car, and pressing on it with your finger, that might be possible, but thats not a valid test. In a properly assembled truck, the wheels will never touch the sideframes. As mentioned, both insulated wheels need to be on the same side, or you will have a dead short. I have hundreds of pieces of rolling stock with metal trucks and metal axles with only one side insulated, never had a problem in 30 years. Metal trucks where the standard for many years (40's, 50's and into the 60's) in this hobby. If they didn't work Kadee, Central Valley and a host of others would not have made millions of them. All Kadee freight cars come with the same metal trucks they sell individually.
The Kadee - Intermountain set up is very free rolling and tracks exceptionally well. It adds weight down low, often allowing cars to be lighter overall, and allows for electrical pickup for things like caboose lighting or resistors on wheelsets for detection. In my tests they roll more freely than ANY plastic sideframe truck. They increased the pulling capacity of most of my locos by over 30%.
Do not use the truck turner on metal trucks, there is no need. A very small drop of light oil should be placed in the journal before the new wheelsets are installed. This oil soaks into the cast metal of the truck and "perminately" lubricates it.
The other benifit of the Kadee trucks is the springs. They are not intended to "spring" the load, but to allow equalazation, the oposite, reactive flexing that keeps all the wheels equally on the rails. In the old days, many trucks that where not sprung where equalized by being made of three pieces, bolster and two sideframes, attached with screws to allow the sideframes to move. This was once considered very important, today some of us still believe it provides much better tracking and performance, even on the best trackwork.
Sheldon
After reading this I popped some IM's into some sprung, metal KD's and I see where the truck flexing could give you problems if the axles weren't oriented correctly. I've had problems with the sprung metal KD's so I avoid them.Just bought some Athearn plastic trucks with metal wheels and they are great for $3.00/pair! The IM wheels sets rock too.
I've never had any problems with Kadee trucks. I use ONLY Kadee trucks on my freight cars.
loathar I've had problems with the sprung metal KD's so I avoid them.
I've had problems with the sprung metal KD's so I avoid them.
I have over 200 cars equipped with KD trucks with Intermountain wheels. They run fine, I have no shorts or arching.Thesetup is very free-rolling and being truly sprung and equalized (like the prototypes) my cars are very forgiving to track imperfections and never derail.
Thanks for the responses. I did make sure that the insulated sides were correct before trying. I tried to run the two test cars again and I have no problems on straight track. However, on 18" radius curves, I see (and smell) some arcing and and am definitely shorting out. It appears from looking at just the truck and wheelset that the side of the wheel can come into contact with the truck. I'll have to decide if I want to go to Kadee trucks on my cars. I may do so more experimenting with this. Thanks again to all for the advice and personal experiences.
I would be inclined to suspect that your 18" radius curves are the problem. It is possible that the wheels are hitting the underframe of the car and this is pushing the wheelsets into the sideframes.
I must admit, I don't run any 18" radius curves. My minimum mainline radius is 36", yards, industries, etc, are all in the 24" range or larger.
I would look closely for the cause - because - any such cause will have other operational drawbacks at some point. It may be in the form of derailments or extra drag effecting performance, etc.
Assuming that the insulated wheels are correctly installed... I think all the IM axles are insulated on both sides IIRC.
The main problem is, the IM wheels (or LL, or Branchline, etc.) are too narrow. The axle point rides at the top of the journal, not in the center where it belongs. If you hold onto the truck and wiggle the axle, you'll see what I mean. Watch the truck as you set the car on the tracks and the truck will settle after the wheel stop on the rail head.The truck is so loose it will actually touch the inside of the truck sideframe when going through tight turns.
These "standard replacement axles are approximately 1.010 wide, Kadee's on the other hand are 1.018 to 1.021 on the 70 Barber RB truck, hence they are wider and fit better. All that slop in the trucks can make the car run missaligned through turnouts and definetly through 18" radius curves. Reboxx is the only replacement axle that will fit correctly. http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm Download the .pdf files for the correct axle lengths for any truck made. Don't forget that these are also .088 tread width or semi-scale, and may not work as well as standard plastic trucks with .110 tread widths on your trackwork.
Reboxx's reamer is for plastic trucks only, Atlas trucks tend to be narrower and you can ream them out to fit a standard 1.010 replacement axle with this tool too.
These had to be relpaced, besides being rusty when they should have been black and greasy, I mean. These are IM .088 replacement wheels which would almost fall out of the truck they were so sloppy.
You can see in this end shot that the axle is not even close to the center of the journal box where they belong.
kbaker329Also, I'm assuming the MicroMark truck tuner is for plastic trucks only, or will it work on metal trucks.
The Micro Mark truck tuner is the same as the Reboxx one, and according to Reboxx, it works equally well with metal sideframes. It's made of steel drill rod stock, so it should work very well on cast metal sideframes. I've tried it. It does.
I am nearing completion on a project to convert my freight car fleet from plastic rigid trucks to metal (and cerrtain plastic - e.g.: Lindberg) sideframe sprung trucks, all with Reboxx "semi-scale" (0.088" tread, as compared to the 0.110" treads of the NMRA wheel standard) wheelsets. I have made some interesting observations regarding the whole sprung-truck and wheelset question.
I have used old Varney, Athearn, Ulrich, Kadee and Silver Streak trucks, as well as some unknown ones. All seem to perform equally well.
A question for all: Who used to make models of Vulcan trucks? I found a pair in a lot of trucks I picked up on the auction site, and I don't recall ever seeing any before... Kinda neat looking, though.
Keith, if your wheelsets are touching the sideframe, the axles are too short, causing the wheels to slip too far to the side. Normally that should not be a problem. I suspect, as others have mentioned, that the shorting is in the journals, because you've gotten a wheelset swapped end-for-end. It happens. Trust me.
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
Neutrino The main problem is, the IM wheels (or LL, or Branchline, etc.) are too narrow. The axle point rides at the top of the journal, not in the center where it belongs. If you hold onto the truck and wiggle the axle, you'll see what I mean. Watch the truck as you set the car on the tracks and the truck will settle after the wheel stop on the rail head.The truck is so loose it will actually touch the inside of the truck sideframe when going through tight turns. These "standard replacement axles are approximately 1.010 wide, Kadee's on the other hand are 1.018 to 1.021 on the 70 Barber RB truck, hence they are wider and fit better. All that slop in the trucks can make the car run missaligned through turnouts and definetly through 18" radius curves. Reboxx is the only replacement axle that will fit correctly. http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm Download the .pdf files for the correct axle lengths for any truck made. Don't forget that these are also .088 tread width or semi-scale, and may not work as well as standard plastic trucks with .110 tread widths on your trackwork.
While I understand all the facts regarding axle length, fact is all pointed axles ride on the top of the axle/journal cone, not on the point. If the axles are long enough to actually ride on the point, then their tight fit would not produce a free rolling truck. The only real question is how much play is too much play. Opinons vary.
I tested Reboxx wheels and the results where no better. As you point out, semi scale wheels may not be a good choice for everyones trackwork. I do not use them for those reasons. Anyone who does not understand wheel tread width issues should go to the Fast Tracks web site and watch their videos on frogs.
The shorter axle Intermountain wheelsets work fine in Kadee trucks because of the reduced axle diameter outside the wheel. Proto and others do not work well in Kadee trucks because their larger wheel axle cone can bind in the Kadee journal.
Hundreds of freight cars and 30% improved pulling capacity can not be wrong. I have no problems with poor tracking, quite the oposite actually, but as admitted, I don't have any 18" radius curves either.
gmcrailMetal axles in metal sideframes sometimes do not roll as well as metal axles in plastic sideframes. On my layout, which is small, the longest trains are less than 20 cars long, so this isn't a problem for me.
As mentioned every time I have posted about this, I put a drop of oil in the journals at assembly. My Kadee/Intermountain combo trucks roll better than anything I have been able to find - I tested them all.
Yes the reamer works on metal - but - it will wear out in such use and I found it to be of no benifit with the metal trucks.
These free rolling trucks allow two Spectrum 2-8-0's to pull 40-50 cars.
"While I understand all the facts regarding axle length, fact is all pointed axles ride on the top of the axle/journal cone, not on the point. If the axles are long enough to actually ride on the point, then their tight fit would not produce a free rolling truck. The only real question is how much play is too much play. Opinons vary."
When the axle slop allows a cars wheels to touch a metal frame. Whatta ya gonna get?
"As mentioned every time I have posted about this, I put a drop of oil in the journals at assembly. My Kadee/Intermountain combo trucks roll better than anything I have been able to find - I tested them all."
You obviously never used the correct width Reboxx axles. Putting oil in a journal box just makes a magnet for dirt and anything else that will stick, Dry graphite will stay put longer and not cause the same problems.
"Yes the reamer works on metal - but - it will wear out in such use and I found it to be of no benefit with the metal trucks."
My screwdrivers work as a chisel too, but I found them to be of no benefit as screw drivers afterwords either. At $14 a pop, the reamer works better as a tool for plastic trucks, but makes a swell metal punch.
Just because it works for you doesn't mean that the correct parts won't work for 99% of others seeking advise.
Why not just keep the Kadee wheels in the Kadee trucks? I use Kadee trucks exclusivly with no modification and have no problems with derailments, shorts, or other maladies.
Mr. SP Why not just keep the Kadee wheels in the Kadee trucks? I use Kadee trucks exclusivly with no modification and have no problems with derailments, shorts, or other maladies.
I understand, that's what I used to do, but in the quest for more free rolling trucks to allow longer trains to pulled by any given locomotive or locomotive set, I discovered this combination. I want metal sprung/equalized trucks and I want them free rolling. And I don't have any problems with them with the Intermountain wheelsets.
I have spoken to Sam at Kadee and he admits their trucks are not a free rolling as many out there today. BUT, with Intermountain wheelsets, they are more free rolling than anything I have found. Pulling capacity of my locos is increased 30% with trains fully equiped with this setup.
Neutrino "While I understand all the facts regarding axle length, fact is all pointed axles ride on the top of the axle/journal cone, not on the point. If the axles are long enough to actually ride on the point, then their tight fit would not produce a free rolling truck. The only real question is how much play is too much play. Opinons vary." When the axle slop allows a cars wheels to touch a metal frame. Whatta ya gonna get? "As mentioned every time I have posted about this, I put a drop of oil in the journals at assembly. My Kadee/Intermountain combo trucks roll better than anything I have been able to find - I tested them all." You obviously never used the correct width Reboxx axles. Putting oil in a journal box just makes a magnet for dirt and anything else that will stick, Dry graphite will stay put longer and not cause the same problems. "Yes the reamer works on metal - but - it will wear out in such use and I found it to be of no benefit with the metal trucks." My screwdrivers work as a chisel too, but I found them to be of no benefit as screw drivers afterwords either. At $14 a pop, the reamer works better as a tool for plastic trucks, but makes a swell metal punch. Just because it works for you doesn't mean that the correct parts won't work for 99% of others seeking advise.
I have sat and played, pushed, wiggled, rolled, etc, Kadee trucks with Intermountain wheelsets and have yet to get a wheel to rub a sideframe. I'm not saying it can't happen, but as I suggested before, there are most likely other factors, like the wheels hitting the underframe on sharp curves. I openly admitted I don't have any curves that sharp so its not a problem for me.
I did not deny the validity of using Reboxx wheelsets, but as YOU pointed out, they are semi scale treads. I have tested semi scale treads with the trackage I build/use and do not like the performance. So I prefer to stay with NMRA standard track and wheel products.
The oil has NEVER been a problem. It is such a small amount and it soaks into the cast metal. I tried graphite it didn't work as well. The other guy on here who uses the Kadee/Intermountain combo uses grease - that apparently works fine for him. Maybe you need a cleaner invironment for your layout.
I NEVER implyed or stated that my way of doing this was the ONLY way that works. BUT, the OP did refer to me and asked a specific question about info I had posted in other threads. I answered his questions and the questions/comments of others.
One fellow modeler in our group was into the reboxx thing big, then he noticed how rough they bounce through his code 100 Atlas turnouts. Now he just pops Intermountain wheels in everything.
I full well understand that you are no doubt the worlds formost authority on this, but I will continue to do what my own experiance has shown to work and will share those ideas with any who ask.
NeutrinoAssuming that the insulated wheels are correctly installed... I think all the IM axles are insulated on both sides IIRC.
No they are only insulated on one side.
That is a nice looking model by the way.
P.S. - I don't mind being "incorrect".
I also don't use those "correct" semi scale couplers, or those "correct" DCC systems, or that "correct" onboard sound, or the "correct" overpriced track products.
But my trains run good and stay on the track and I have been having lots of fun with them since 1967.
Sheldon,
I didn't say you were incorrect, just the width of the axles you're using. Most people using inexpensive switches have problems with narrower tread wheels and the wide ones are fine for people who need to use them.
Your hobby money is better spent on what works for you, not someone else. I fully understand that everyone doesn't have perfect track work or the smoothest turnouts and even if they did, they still might prefer the bigger couplers and oversize wheel threads. It's your hobby so run it like you wanna.
I was pointing out a time honored axiom that you shouldn't oil your journals and for the reasons stated. Just like not using real dirt for ballast, until you bake it and run a strong magnet over it. Your dirt/ballast might be iron free, but lo the person who thinks a suggestion to scoop up some from the backyard and start ballasting, is a good idea! You'd be into some other hobby pretty quickly.
Thanks for the kudos on the car. www.weatheringsolutions.net for more.
Jerry
ATLANTIC CENTRALgmcrailMetal axles in metal sideframes sometimes do not roll as well as metal axles in plastic sideframes. On my layout, which is small, the longest trains are less than 20 cars long, so this isn't a problem for me. As mentioned every time I have posted about this, I put a drop of oil in the journals at assembly. My Kadee/Intermountain combo trucks roll better than anything I have been able to find - I tested them all.
I agree that the Kadee sideframes work very well, but at more than $6 a pop, I can't afford enough to do all my cars. And I oil the journals also.
ATLANTIC CENTRALYes the reamer works on metal - but - it will wear out in such use and I found it to be of no benifit with the metal trucks.
I agree as to its lack of benefit. But, the OP asked. I had the same question, and emailed Reboxx; their reply:
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Yes, indeed. It's made from drill stock suitable for metals.John BurroughsGary M. Collins wrote:> Can the subject tool be used on metal sideframes (e.g: Kadee, old> Athearn, Varney)?>> Thanks...Gary M. Collins
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NeutrinoThese "standard replacement axles are approximately 1.010 wide, Kadee's on the other hand are 1.018 to 1.021 on the 70 Barber RB truck, hence they are wider and fit better. All that slop in the trucks can make the car run missaligned through turnouts and definetly through 18" radius curves. Reboxx is the only replacement axle that will fit correctly. http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm Download the .pdf files for the correct axle lengths for any truck made. Don't forget that these are also .088 tread width or semi-scale, and may not work as well as standard plastic trucks with .110 tread widths on your trackwork.
Jerry,
I have a question, and/or comment about this statement. I don't generally use Kadee roller bearing trucks because they are outside my era for most of my rolling stock. I model 1954 and the 70 ton Barber's where just starting to appear on things like the new 75' trailer flats. Everything else was ASF ride control and Bettendorf styles or a few Timken 50 ton roller bearing styles (which Kadee does not make). So I cannot directly comment on the 70 ton RB's since I don't have dozens of them laying around like I do the ASF and Bettendorf styles.
Anyway, I just went to the workshop and measured a bunch of Kadee 33" wheel sets. Their axle lengths where all between 1.010" and 1.012". They all came out of Kadee ASF ride control or Bettendorf trucks. Reboxx's recommendations aside, how could the 1.010" Intermountains (which I measured also) not be a suitable replacement?
Somehow I doubt Kadee is making different length axles for each truck, especially in view of the fact that they sell the wheel sets seperately.
I am not disputing the work done by Reboxx regarding their recommendations, but as I said before the question is how much play is too much.
Not trying to be argumentitive here, you just got me thinking about stuff I checked years ago and am now rechecking.
But based on the parts on my workbench, my caliper says they should work just as my results say they do. Why is your data different?
Gentlemen,
First off, let me say that the wheelsets were oriented correctly! No shorts from that. I've got Kadee Bettendorf trucks, but I don't like the black wheels and someday, I would like to be able to install resistors on wheelsets for signals, block detection, etc. I also agree with most here that the IM wheelsets roll more freely than the Kadee wheelsets. I just did some measuring with a micrometer and here's what I found. The Kadee wheelsets are 1.010" long. The diameter of the shaft right before it begins to taper to the point is 0.089" (measured with calipers, couldn't get the micrometer in there!). The IM wheelsets are 1.0028" long. The diameter of the shaft right before it begins to taper is 0.060". I'm starting to think that the combination of shorter wheelset + smaller diameter shaft + 18" radius curves will not work out. This stinks because after reading Sheldon's posts a few weeks ago, I tested this on my straight yard tracks and agree with his results, the Kadee/IM combo rolled almost twice as far as a Kadee truck/Kadee wheelset combo. I may look at the Reboxx wheelsets for my 40-50 cars with Kadee trucks and use the IM wheelsets on the plastic trucks. I also saw no need to use the truck tuner on the Kadee trucks but wanted to see if anybody had experience pro or con with that. Thanks again for the advice and personal experiences.
To all who have been following this thread:
I have always believed that the main reason that the Intermountain wheelsets work so well is the reduced diameter of the axle outside of the wheel, and the resultant smaller cone on the end of the axle.
I believe that with sprung trucks it is impossible to expect the sideframes to remain at a right angle to the bolster or the axle, therefore more flex is needed and more side play in the axle is a help not a hindrance. The fact that the trucks equalize makes them more able to always self center, even with this "extra" play, when compaired to rigid sideframe trucks.
I would in fact agree with the idea that on rigid sideframe trucks, the least amount of side play that results in free rolling is best. But not necessarly so with sprung trucks. The movement factor changes everything.
And to repeat if I may, it is the smaller axle outside the wheel on the Intermountain (and Reboxx) wheel sets that make them roll better. Actually, I think if Kadee would just redesign the end of their delrin axle, they would have the most free rolling truck ever made.
Again, I realize other methods work well, and mine is not the least expensive or easiest, but for me the look, tracking, and superior rolling qualities of metal sprung trucks are worth the time and money.
Your Intermountain wheelsets only measured 1.0028"? There is the problem you got a bad batch - call them up and send them back. Get some more and check the length again, they should be 1.010".
No wonder the wheels are hitting the sideframes, there is not enough axle outside the wheel to keep them off the sideframe. When the wheel set is bottomed in the journal the wheels should still be a good ways from the side frame, I will take a measurement.
The figures that I gave for the Kadee 70 ton R/B came from the Reboxx spec sheet for axle widths. Almost all Kadee and for that matter most all mfrs have slightly different axle widths. The "standard" replacement wheels sets from IM, Branchline, fit 80% of the plastic trucks.
By Truck Manufacturer: Right click on the link. and select "Save As" and save to your desktop.
By axle length:
http://www.reboxx.com/Documents/Wheelsets/33%20Application%20Chart%20by%20length.pdf
Neutrino The figures that I gave for the Kadee 70 ton R/B came from the Reboxx spec sheet for axle widths. Almost all Kadee and for that matter most all mfrs have slightly different axle widths. The "standard" replacement wheels sets from IM, Branchline, fit 80% of the plastic trucks.
I guess 80% depends a lot on whos rolling stock you buy. I buy (or have bought over 40 years) lots of Athearn. Intermountain wheelsets are WAY too sloppy in Athearn side frames (although lots of people use them with no problem), in fact so are Kadee wheelsets. Athearn wheel sets have always been in the 1.020" to 1.025" range.
I measured almost every Kadee wheelset I could find, about a dozen or so (I recycle them by selling them on ebay after removing them from brand new trucks). The production tolerance is pretty wide, I found some as small as 1.008" and some as large as 1.015" with most being between 1.010" and 1.014".
I measured Intermountain wheelsets from three different bulk boxes on my workbench, all where spot on at 1.010". My queestion stands, how could a 1.010" wheelset not a be a suitable replacement in a Kadee truck?
With wheel tread width and gage being constant, overall length and axle projection should all be within working tolerance.
Side note: The reduced axle diameter (.063") of the Intermountain and Reboxx wheelsets actually comes from the NMRA in RP24.3.
In all the measurements I have taken, The axle outside the wheel is at least .025" longer than the depth of the journal, this provides more than enough clearance.
Keith, I am very sure you have some bad product - check it out.
Jerry, a note about trackwork - These days I use Atlas code83 track and turnouts almost exclusively. The high quality and low price can't be beat. Over the years I have hand layed track and turnouts, used TrueScale products, etc., but these days that is reserved for special trackwork only. Many have complimented me on the precision of my trackwork, I am rather detail focused. I do prefer to stay with NMRA standards rather than trying to reinvent the wheel. I have built a number of layouts and the current one is very operation focused, so operational reliablity and performance takes precedence over appearance, although I must say, painted, balasted and weathered Atlas track products look just fine in my opinion. These factors are why I have rejected semi scale wheels and couplers.
Sheldon, to answer your previous question about my measurement. They weren't mine, I took them from the .pdf files.
I know Sam sometimes checks this forum, I hope he will chime in and set us straight. (I have been known to be wrong and will admit when I am.
If you look at the end shot of the my Kadee PS-1, you can't help but notice how far up in the trucks those IM wheels sit. They did bind against the frame and front of the unloading chutes so they had to be replaced with the originals. They were/are 33" dia, so that wasn't a factor. This missmatch also effects coupler performance drasticaly too. The couplers on the car, came on the car, nothing was added but weathering. If I would have shimmed the cars trucks to make the couplers the correct height,it wouldn't have looked correct. (I tried two gray Kadee washers (which are dificult to center on the self centering trucks that I love on these cars.) and it was still a bit low for a semi-scale coupler and I didn't want to make the car that high off the bolsters.
I know this is getting tedious, but as long as we're being civil...
Did you read the Reboxx .pdf files? that's what I used for refrence.
The NMRA standards for track work are antiquated and aimed at increasingly sloppy tolerances such as Tyco and Riverossi type flanges and operating quality. Todays higher quality rolling stock demands better track work than the wide frogs and compromises like the so-called molded on detail of Atlas track. Please post a picture of what you consider good looking painted, ballasted and weathered Atlas track, I'd like to see some.
About NMRA standards; Tim Warris has a great video explaining a few facts.
Scroll down to the bottom of the first video section.
Link: http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos.php
NeutrinoIf you look at the end shot of the my Kadee PS-1, you can't help but notice how far up in the trucks those IM wheels sit. They did bind against the frame and front of the unloading chutes so they had to be replaced with the originals. They were/are 33" dia, so that wasn't a factor. This missmatch also effects coupler performance drasticaly too. The couplers on the car, came on the car, nothing was added but weathering. If I would have shimmed the cars trucks to make the couplers the correct height,it wouldn't have looked correct. (I tried two gray Kadee washers (which are dificult to center on the self centering trucks that I love on these cars.) and it was still a bit low for a semi-scale coupler and I didn't want to make the car that high off the bolsters.
Yes I did notice that on your photo. Not sure why we are getting such different results. I just measured the bolster height of two Kadee trucks, both #552 self centering ASF 50 ton. One has the orginal Kadee wheel sets, one has Intermountain wheel sets. Both measured exactly .3125" (5/16") from the rail head - per NMRA RP23. I do not have any of those hopper cars, but all my Kadee box cars have Intermountain wheelsets with no effect on coupler height. The 552 is my truck of choice most of the time.
You are welcome to your opinion about the NMRA standards and RP's, I don't agree. It is obvious from you photos and statements that you have an interest in fine scale modeling. I did too at one time. I also understand if Atlas Custom Line code 83 turnouts are not up to your appearance or fine scale operational standards - but for me they are fine. Fact is, with RP25 wheels they work very well, are inexpensive, and are easy to wire (Oh no, another whole topic could start here).
I have no pizza cutter wheels on old locos or cheap RTR talgo trucks from the 60's, but needing to build completely scale track is not on my radar, and even less so is the idea of only get half way to completely scale track from where I am now. I have some where in the range of 400 freight cars equiped with the Kadee/Intermountain combo and standard head Kadee couplers.
I don't know how old you are or how long you have been modeling, as I have indicated I have been at this about 40 years, since I was 12. I have worked in hobby shops and been involved with well known clubs and modelers. I try very hard to respect every aspect of this hobby. For me personally rivet counting and fine scale modeling became too tedious and no fun.
My goals now are about building a fairly large operational freelanced layout, building scenery and running trains. While I can appreciate models like the one you posted, I have no need for every piece of rolling stock on my layout to be at that level.
I have read all the Reboxx stuff, I have watched all the Fasttracks videos, I was hand laying track at age 14 taught by the masters at the Severna Park Model Railroad Club. My first layout was all hand layed on TrueScale milled roadbed with TrueScale switch kits. I have no interest in replacing, revamping, redesigning, or re-engineering all the stuff I have accumulated in 40 years, or for that matter, even what I have purchased in the last 10-20 years.
A related issue is this coupler thing, with semi scale track, tighter tolerences everywhere, semi scale couplers are fine, But with the possible side play we are discussing in these trucks, NMRA track/wheelset standards, the semi scale couplers have inadiquite gathering range for good, reliable operation. Remember I said operation FIRST, appearance second. Also, I have found that the intermixing of semi scale and regular couplers, even if they are all Kadee, is a less than ideal match as well. But my biggest gripe with semi scale couplers is that they actually have more train slack action in the knuckle than the regular head coupler - I run long trains, 30-50 cars.
I currently have no photo hosting nor the time/interest to setup such, but if your ever in the Baltimore area, look me up.
I wasn't trying to tell you how to model. I wasn't telling anyone how to model. I was just pointing out the facts as stated by different mfrs and my opinion. I offered examples and links. I understand your need to do things they way that they suit you, as should everyone!
I have been modeling since I was 10, so that gives me about 52 years of experience, which counts, "por nada", zip. I know hoggers older than I, (If that's possible. ) who look down their nose at anything not done their way and usually their advise goes in one ear and out the other, sometimes a good idea comes through, who knows.
About 90% of my work is prototype based fantasy weathering and painting. By fantasy, I mean that the weathering is based on actual weathering patterns, not specific copies of specific cars. Some of my customers want wide wheels (Below) and #5 couplers, some don't. What ever they want is fine with me as long as I'm not cutting holes in stock cars to poke Giraffe heads through, I'll most likely try to accommodate. I always check the cars to standard gauges, coupler heights and rolling quality. I've had no complaints, so far.
That said, I'm always willing to learn and to help when and where I can.
Not to beat a dead horse too long...
I knew that I had a package of Reboxx's test axles and while looking for something else, I found them.
Now why would a company (Reboxx) got to the expense of making not only these axle widths, but intermediate sizes too? Because maybe there are lots of different sized trucks out there.
The 12 axle set with color code.
One more thing.
From narrow to wide and how to tell, etc, etc...