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double crossover help

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  • Member since
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double crossover help
Posted by peppersdad on Thursday, March 19, 2009 11:14 AM

I'm currently planning a new indoor layout in which space is at a premium.  I would like to have a double cross over but I can't seem to get it straight.  I know it can be done with Aristo's large # 6 switches but I was hoping to do it using less real estate.  I have enough switches of both LGB's three switch sizes and Aristro's 10' switches to do the job as well as the different crossovers but cannot seem to get it to work.  I also do not want to cut any switches to do the job.  Is there anybody that can help?

Thanks

Peppers Dad

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Posted by altterrain on Thursday, March 19, 2009 1:08 PM

 This approach works fine with Aristo wide radius (10' D) switches -

 

 

You'll need to cut the straights to fit in between the switches but no cutting of switches required.

-Brian
 

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Posted by pimanjc on Friday, March 27, 2009 6:59 PM

My double crossover was built using Aristo WR [10ft] switches.

 

Jim Carter

"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by sldozier on Friday, March 27, 2009 7:43 PM

 Aristo "WR"  means (Wide Right ??) 10ft diameter switches? Part number 30370 ? They look brass to me. Is their any other track in between the four 4 switches, or any small self made pieces required to fill in space?

If 30370 isn't the right part number, can you provide the right part number(s) please? I want to do that exact crossover, (seen it in some youtube videos) but I'm brand new and right now all on my own, and hesitant about purchasing expensive track pieces, when I'm unsure they are going to accomplish what I expect they will! Thanks

Are you manually operating the double crossover, or is their some remote automation involved?

 

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Posted by pimanjc on Friday, March 27, 2009 10:26 PM

Peppers Dad,

The switches are the WR 10ft Aristo switches with manual throws.  If you notice, there is a slight bow on the outside "straights" between the two switches on each side.  That is because the angles of the switches on my 9.5in spacing do not line up precisely.  The #6 switches line up better, but I didn't have enough length available coming off the curves on each end of the double.  I did not add any spacers.  If you could use a wider spacing between tracks, then spacers could be added at the ends of the "X" and avoid the angularity issue a little.

Another view.

Hope this helps.

JimC.

"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by peppersdad on Saturday, March 28, 2009 12:16 PM

Jim

Thanks for the help.  That's exactly what I want to do.  You have 9.5 inches between the parallel tracks.   Which cross over did you use?  I assume it was one of the Aristo's. I'm going to give it a try.

Pepper's Dad

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Posted by pimanjc on Saturday, March 28, 2009 2:25 PM

I don't remember exactly which crossover it was.  I think it was either a 19 or 22 degree Aristo.  I have two inches of ice and three inches of snow on top of the crossover right now so I can't go outside and measure the angle.  We has a late spring ice/sleet/snow/blizzard last night and this morning.

http://www.mogulus.com/riogram  

JimC.

"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by pimanjc on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 4:48 PM

I used a 30 degree crossover with the WR [10ft] switches.  The frog angle on the WR switch is 15 degrees.   If you use the #6 switch [9.5 degree frog angle] then the 19 degree crossover is needed. 

 In the case of the WR switches, they curve away past the frog, thereby increasing the effective angle of the frog.  That is why the "straights" between the switches are slightly bowed outward. Belly bending should work after screws holding track to ties are removed.   After bending to correct contour, then cut the track to proper length as physically marked while in place.  There will also be a slight angle to the inside of the outgoing rails.  Since I was coming off curves on both ends, that was of no consequence for me.

 If you have room, the #6s/19Deg. combination is much easier to work with, but takes significantly more space. 

 JimC.

"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by sldozier on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 6:16 PM

 Thanks Jim! Appreciate the feedback! I'm going to take a serious look at your #6 switch suggestion, I believe I have the room to accomplish the goal. I'll be working with a 56ft Long, 11ft wide section of my backyard. Is that enough space?

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