We're about to introduce a hinged lift bridge module at the club (www.wimrc.ca) that will see frequent use every operating session. Recommendations/comments would be appreciated as to the type of electrical cutout switches and their installation, to cut DCC power to adjacent track sections when the bridge is not locked down. We want to ensure reliable, maintenance-free operation and make sure trains don't plunge into the abyss.
Isambard
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I use a normally open limit switch that is mounted to the unhinged side of the lift-out. When the bridge is lifted, power to one of the rails is cut, the other rail is always on.
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
We use a similar micro switch at our club's lift bridge. One side is hinged up, so we don't worry about that end, just the open end like the above post and photos show.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Commercial grade microswitches are a good way to go. (similar to the one shown in the first photo above).
They have a lifespan of thousands of cycles.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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Johnnny_rebI would incorporate a dead zone on both sides of the bridge also. Say about a foot or so. Testing may be needed to adjust the length of the dead zones to insure a Loco running at “FULL” speed does not coast thru the zone when the bridge is out of place. Should someone open the bridge with noticing the on coming train.
I would suggest a dead zone that is longer than your longest train. About a year ago I backed a brass caboose off of a lift-out section. The "dead-zone" was about a foot too short.
The good news is the caboose was able to be repaired. That's why I like brass.
aw well you answered a couple questions...how about a couple pics of what the track joint/hindge looks like on the hindged side
THANKS IN ADVANCE!