General Discussion (Model Railroader)

 I've just purchased the set of Century 20 NYC passenger car, but I am having trouble with them uncoupling and derailing on the curves. (22 & 24 degree curves)

 In the instruction sheet it at the bottom of the exploded parts diagram it has a "NOTE TO MODELER"

"For Improved operations on a 24" radius curve,trim the center sill to clear wheelsets"

So on the bottom of the car turn the trucks as far left and right as they will go. The area where they touch the center sill must be cut out. Add another 1/2 " or so beyond where they touch. I just simply cut my sills to the next support bar, or about an 1 1/2" of material. I used a pair of diagonal cutters or you could use some "rail snips".

They work perfectly now on my curves. And you can't see underneath where you cut out the sill anyway, so it still looks great.

(Let me know if you want to see a picture of what I did)

Homer44:

 I've just purchased the set of Century 20 NYC passenger car, but I am having trouble with them uncoupling and derailing on the curves. (22 & 24 degree curves)

Twenty-two and 24 degree curves equal about 36 and 33 inch radii, respectively, in HO scale.

If body couplers, you need to be in the neighborhood of 60-inch radius (5 times car length) for reliable coupling without manipulation.

Mark

 Thank You for the detailed way to improve my passenger cars. I have heard of that, but wasn't sure what they were trying to explain. Your detail is must better I'll try this and give you an update

Thomas

Hi,

A few days ago I posted a similar question about my Walther's passenger cars.  I got lots of excellent advice (which worked!).  Please check that posting out.

Mobilman44

markpierce:

Twenty-two and 24 degree curves equal about 36 and 33 inch radii, respectively, in HO scale.

If body couplers, you need to be in the neighborhood of 60-inch radius (5 times car length) for reliable coupling without manipulation.

Mark

Well, Mark, that's a very erudite answer, but my first question to a modeler new to the forum would be "are you sure you mean 22 and 24 degree curves, or do you mean 22 and 24 inch radius curves?" Maybe the smiley after your answer means that you are thinking the same way, but that may be a little too subtle to be helpful to the OP (that's Original Poster = Homer44, since you're new to the forum).

Several posters have already given good answers to the question; it seems that the Walthers cars need some mod's to get around such tight curves.

- Gerhard

gerhard_k:

Well, Mark, that's a very erudite answer, but my first question to a modeler new to the forum would be "are you sure you mean 22 and 24 degree curves, or do you mean 22 and 24 inch radius curves?"

I was sure he meant curves measured by radius and inches, and I trusted most everyone would comprehend my point.

 Mark

markpierce:

gerhard_k:

Well, Mark, that's a very erudite answer, but my first question to a modeler new to the forum would be "are you sure you mean 22 and 24 degree curves, or do you mean 22 and 24 inch radius curves?"

I was sure he meant curves measured by radius and inches, and I trusted most everyone would comprehend my point.

 Mark

I understood what you meant Mark in a helpful and constructive way and I don't think your comment was ignorant towards the OP at all. Perhaps Gerhard doesn't like the way you're staring at him 

 My layout is an 16'x12' L-shaped, with one end being 48" and the other end being 72" the cars seem to derail on the 48" curves more then the other. I had talk to Robert @ Dream rail and he said there is a way to modify the cars for sharper curves. I am still going to have them design my next layout this spring.

Homer

Homer,

  When you refer to "48", and that the cars derail especially in that area, I suspect you are referring to DIAMETER, as opposed to a radius measurement.  Model railroaders typically talk radius as opposed to diameter (as we seldom have complete circles of trackage).

Anyway, assuming you are talking 24 inch radius, that is probably the minimum radius these cars could handle.  But to do that effectively, you may need to:  install longer couplers, loosen the truck screws a bit, assure the diaphgrams are flexable, oil the axles, assure the coupler "hoses" are not dragging, and the biggee - make sure the trucks have sufficient clearance to make the curve.  This usually means cutting into the center sills or removing part of the truck or possibly body shell. 

I just went through all of the above for a 28 inch curve (see my posting on this Forum) and got a lot of guidance that I repeated above.  Frankly, if you are "stuck" with 24 inch curves, you are better off with the Athearn "shorty" passenger cars than full length cars.  These are often available on Ebay, and can be fixed up nicely with add-on details.  I have a 13 car consist of Athearn heavyweights (ATSF) and they are used quite a bit - more so than my 3 consists of Walthers cars.

Hey, for what its worth..........

Mobilman44 

 Mobilman44

Thanks for all the interesting information I have been out of the "HOBBY" for over thirty years,now retired because of the economy in Michigan, I am looking forward to getting back in with both feet. I bought this L-shape layout for a business display with building missing and lots of track repair.I like the Passenger cars, and started buying them as they came in at my local hobby shop.  I am trying to add an elevated city scene with trolley and a EL. (boy has that been hard to adapt). I probably should have started over from custom bench work.  Anyways thanks again

Homer