I've become a proponent of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for gears and bearings instead of grease or oil. It's a little heavy for tiny motor bearings, though. I got this from watching friends run 3 rail O display layouts in the '80s and '90s. They quickly found that ATF was the only lube that would hold up to the continuous hours without drying out from the heat - including the much more expensive Labelle. That said, Labelle does make excellent lubricants.
The only Hob-E-Lube I have used is the graphite powder. And I found it inferior to Kadee's Grease-em graphite powder in both coupler and Pinewood Derby applications.
Capt. Grimek:I have a Heavy Mikado that has the slightest
"titch" emanating from it's driving rods/valve gear....something....
and seeing as breaking it in hasn't gotten rid of it, thought I'd
better try oiling it up sooner than later. (Hence the purchase of
whichever oils I found at the show, today.)
The sound is a cross between a tiny "click" and a "chirp" and haven't
been able to find it with my Opti-visor's magnification or
lighting.
I do cringe at attempting to get rid of a mechanism issue by "breaking in" or covering it up with lubrication. From the description, something ain't right and needs to be corrected for long term life and health of the locomotive. Perhaps part of the valve gear is catching on a screw head or a driver is slightly out of quarter. I have had bent pieces in the valve gear before cause a hitch. The best way to trouble-shoot is to remove the motor and worm (and of course shell). Carefully roll the chassis on flat surface (plate glass is about the best) to search for the cause of the glitch. You may have to further disassemble some parts to isolate the cause of the problem. I don't like to lube until I have resolved any issues.
just my experiences
Fred W