Layouts and layout building

 Hi everybody,

 I'm going to be building my first layout shortly.  I decided on N-scale for space and portability reasons.  I have recently purchased a hollow core 36"x80" interior door as the layout base, based on some research I did previously.  Having recently seen the video of Dave Vollmer's beautiful Juniata Division layout, I'm simultaneously inspired and intimidated! 

I'm going to start off a little smaller, of course, but I have a few questions:

1. I'm trying to decide between Code 80 and Code 55 track - I gather that Code 55 looks nicer and more "to scale", but are there other considerations?  Is Code 55 more difficult to install in a layout?  As a beginner, am I better off sticking with Code 80?
2. I've installed Atlas' RTS  8.0 software to do the track planning, since I don't want to cough up $100+ for something like 3rd Planit quite yet.  However, can anyone recommend a good source of track plans which will fit on a 36"x80" door?
3. I have a DC power pack which came with my train set but can anyone recommend a simple, low cost DCC system?  I'm asking because I plan on having two loops of track I can run two trains on with some branch lines, and I think DCC may be a simpler way to go, but I'm not sure.
   
4. With regards to terrain modelling, I've been considering using Woodland Scenics' SubTerrain system, as it seems reasonably straightforward.  I've also seen examples of using those blue foam insulation boards in layers and then cutting into them to make below track grade terrain (as in Dave Vollmer's layout).  Any opinions on which is a better approach?

Thanks for any insight you can provide.  I appreciate it!

 -Sean

 Hi, Sean.  Welcome to the "N" Crowd.  Dave Vollmer's door layout is an outstanding example of how much you can accomplish with a starter layout.  Don't be intimidated!  And don't be shy about getting in touch with Dave about his layout.  You'll find that N scalers tend to run in herds, and with rare exception, are open to discuss their tricks and techniques.  There are a number of forums out there that are more thorough regarding N scale than this one, but this is a good place to start.

To answer some of your questions:

Re:  Code 55 track:  Like any choice you make, there are advantages and disadvantages to any track system you choose.  It comes down to what you want to get out of your layout.  There are those who insist that code 80 or Unitrak by Kato is the way to go because it provides more reliable operation.  Personally, I think that if you take your time laying your track and pay attention to your basic electrical work, any track system will work.  As such, I look at the track as a critical component of the scenery, so I want a more prototypical look.  I also look at overall cost and availability.  For me, Atlas Code 55 track and components fit my needs.  I've been using them for over 4 years now, and I find them to be economical, reliable, and accessible, as well as very good looking.

The only real compromise is that due to its design as a "super flex" track, the spike heads are a tad higher than those on Micro-Engineering's line of (more expensive and harder to find) code 55, but this is only a problem for n scalers with large numbers of older rolling stock, or Micro Trains cars with their stock wheels, which have flanges that are too large compared to NMRA recommended practice.  Even this issue is easy to deal with, as replacement wheelsets are widely available, and most new equipment, including engines, conform to the NMRA rp.  If you start with c55 from Atlas, just keep that in mind as you start accumulating rolling stock.

Door Layout Track Plans:  I just Googled "Small Track Plans" and came up with this in about a second and a half.  There's a million good resources out there, including the track plan database here on the Trains.com forum, if you're a subscriber...

DCC vs. DC:  I held off converting to DCC until I was confident that there was a completely idiot-proof system I could get.  I found it in the MRC Prodigy Advance system.  Again, there are advantages and disadvantages to any system, but I really like how user friendly the MRC set up is.  The hand held throttle is very intuitive, and the instruction manual is brief, and written in layman's English.  Very little head scratching to get it set up, and even less to run.  It's also highly expandable, and upgradeable (they currently offer a wireless upgrade).  It's also the most affordable full-featured system available.

 Scenery base:  The Woodland Scenics products are nice, as they're pretty easy to figure out without a lot of hand holding.  However, for what you get, they can be very expensive.  For a smallish door layout the impact probably won't be that much, but I'm an inveterate cheapskate, so I look for ways to cut costs any time I can.  Consider that you can purchase a 2'x8' sheet of 2" thick blue foam for about $10-15, that's a heck of a lot of foam for a door layout!  It's easy to work, you can use just about all the scraps if you do a little planning, and once it's covered with scenery materials, you can't tell the difference anyway.  A major advantage of the denser blue or pink foam is that it is more rigid and stable than the white beaded foam that WS offers.  I make my stack of foam, then cover it with a paste of paint-tinted Sculptamold and am very happy with the results.

You're off to a good start, you're asking the right questions.  I've got lots of tips and tricks in the projects section of my website.  Check it out and let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!

Lee

hi Sean

Welcome on board.

You have 5 questions, so 5 answers

Code 55 track is looking great and and there is no good reason to use code 80 (code 80 is for HO).

RTS is free, but drawing a plan in CAD is no garantee for good planning. John Armstrong invented the squares 50 years ago; using a pencil and squares on the back of an envelope is enough for good design.

DCC is great, go for it.

Scenery comes later; so remains question 5: how to design your railroad. On another thread someone stated it could take six month; depends on your imagination.

Even the hollow door you bought can be used on many different ways. You can place it on different ways in your room or cut it in half lenth-wise to create a L-shaped layout. Professional designers start with a long list of questions, lots of them are not easy to answer. But going through the process will be rewarding. Question is which route do you want to follow. If you like it I will give you some websides and books I found worth every penny. Just three for a starter:

Byron Henderson's checklist for potential customers and so much  more  http://home.earthlink.net/~mrsvc/id13.html

Layout Design SIG primer: http://macrodyn.com/ldsig/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Primer

Before you get too involved in looking at other track plans, set some standards first. I looked at the link wm gave and didn't like any of them, to me they all looked like spaggetti bowls. They all looked to follow the one sin of N scale: just because your pot can fit enough noodles for 10 people, doesn't mean you have to make enough spagetti for 10.

I've downloaded XtrckCAD. It's a great program, but a little daunting. A common down fall of Atlas' RTS that I've heard is you can only use Atlas track components.

As for DCC, look at Digitrax!! The Zephyr starter system is simple, easy, and can be found on the net for around $150. Not to mention you can hook up your existing power pack to one of the 2 "jump ports" and your power pack instantly becomes a second throttle. Set the Zephyr to give control to the jump port being used. The only real draw back is the Zephry uses a command station and booster in one, stationary unit, so you have to buy other throttles for walk around capability. But, at the same point Digitrax makes a great little throttle called the UT4. Turn 4 little (physically little, but my chubby fingers can work em) knobs to the loco address and there you go.

I've also heard NCE can be quite good. I've been forewarned off MRC by many on here and the proprieters of the Local Hobby Store (or in my case the local train store). They actually stopped carrying MRC because they were causing trouble with customers and no one was buying them.

Finally the track. Just as you stated, code 55 is more prototypical than C80. But if you're going for that C40 is even more realistic. However, C80 will be the most forgiving, because it's so thick. Another thing to look for is different track manufactorers. Peco makes C80 and C55, but they sort of fool you. Peco C55 is honestly C80 track that is sunk into groves in the ties, so the rail height is the same (.055") as code 55. Micro-Engineering makes C55, but not C80 (they do code 70 instead), but comes in concrete and wood tie varietys, and also comes with more realistic looking wood ties.

Just some more input for ya.

 To clarify a point...  I use the MRC Prodigy Advance DCC system with no complaints.  But, I don't use their decoders, which are a mess by most reports.

Lee

Another idea is to get a few books regarding Nscale. Today there are lots of N scale websites and forums/Organizations (N-trak) that cater to the Nscaler and N scale has risen in popularity over the years. The smaller code rails might prove to be problematic for you if you have older N scale equipement, others might have more insight on that issue.

 DCC or digital systems, its whatever works best for you. Its the proverbal Coca Cola vs Pepsi debate. All DCC have there pros/cons. for some there seems to be an aversion to MRC systems which in my opinion have gotten better. MRC has been around for 50+ years and as a company could probally buy NCE and Digitrax which are much smaller companies & specialize in one product only--- DCC.   That said, NCE make a good DCC system, so does Digitrax the only downfall with Digitrax "for me" maybe not others is that its  more for the technically informed and is not as user friendly in my opinion, that said you can certainly go Digitrax but the learning curve is higher. You might want to check out Bachmans EZ DCC system, its real inexpensive, if you start out with that product and you like it you can jump up to a more sophisticated system listed above.  

Best bet is to join/visit a club  and ask if you can try out a DCC system. The National Model Railroad Associaton  NMRA will have links to clubs in your area or post here and ask.  Woodland scenics works well.  You can also do it yourself and buy some foam board (blue 2" thick ) at the local hardware or home improvement store, using liquid nails or other adhesive you can cut and make nicely shaped hills with some practice. 

 These websites are excellent.  Thanks!