Toy train operating and collecting

Frank,

           I like how you used the tiles to make the smooth transition to your layout. Have you considered tapering them slightly? That might give a smoother transition.

Bob,

         Thanks. If you can see a way that I could improve things, be sure to let me know. I have to give Fifedog the credit for the angles and curves in the elevated tracks. He had mentioned something along those lines in passing in another thread,  and I really like that look. I wouldn't have even thought of that if he didn't mention it. I'd like to use as many different ideas from other people as much as possible just to see what it creates.

green97probe:

Brent,
How would you suggest changing the track plan?  I know that it is tight on the inside, but I couldn't really think of any other way to do it without eliminating any tracks.  I was thinking of using plexiglass along the edge of the table to keep things on the table.

There appears to be quite a bit of space between the tracks, especially for Post War engines where the forward clearance isn't that bad for the engines. I would look into pulling that outer loop back about .5 to 1 inch, then see if you can tighten the other loop so your spacing is about 3 inches (unless you are planning to scenic between them. This would give you about 3 inches of additional space between the inner loop and the 'mountain'. Another thing you could do is raise the inner loops. This would reduce the 'height' impact of the 'mountain' and make it a little easier to scenic. If you leave the outter two loops on the current plane, then raise each subsequent track 1/2 inch you would really add some impact to the layout. Also a 1/2 inch difference wouldn't be too much if you wanted to add transitions between the levels...

Do you have RR-Track?

A few well placed nails will also hold ceiling tile together.

I agree with 88, that outside edge runner will be tempting fate.  But, add some switches to the next to outside line, and serve some sidings on that untapped real estate at the corners.

Jim,
Don't hate me for this... you could also 'curve' the corners on that Flyer level. That would lend to a more realistic mountain as well.

green97probe:

Frank,

           I like how you used the tiles to make the smooth transition to your layout. Have you considered tapering them slightly? That might give a smoother transition.

Tapering takes more real estate on my already space starved layout Jim. I am hoping to use magic tricks with trees and billboards and tunnels to give the illusion of less shearness. As for the area by the door, since the door has to close, I had to make that pretty straight.

Brent,

          I am planning on running only MTH equipment on the eight loops. My 5x9 PW Lionel layout is a mess right now, and I just wanted to play with that 2020. I have left considerable space on both sides of the third loop  to allow for the width of the engine of the Coors Light set. I can play with the distance of the outer loop to the edge of the table because I have to cut some sections to fit. I thought about curving the edges of the second level when I was doing the benchwork, but unfortunately decided against it. If you have ever worked with Flyer track, you would probably understand why I am hesistant to make changes after the fact. How could I go about raising each track? That sounds quite interesting. I have RR-Track, but is the basic version that is included with MTH sets. 

green97probe:

Brent,
How could I go about raising each track? That sounds quite interesting. I have RR-Track, but is the basic version that is included with MTH sets. 

You would have to remove the grass mat, then assemble the track where you want it, take a sharpie and trace the track routes, then cut the plywood along the trace lines, then cut 1x3s to the appropriate heights, attach the 1x3s to the support members and screw the ply strips onto the risers. That is one way. The other would be to leave the base alone, then cut 1x3s to the heights, and cut ply stips to length and attach the 1x3s to the base and then secure the strips to the tops of the 1x3s.

I've actually messed with Flyer track quite a bit. My grandfather had a 1947 set that he bought for my mother's first Christmas (this set will eventually become mine).

You could still curve the upper layout corners. I would SERIOUSLY consider doing that. It would really make your life 1,000x easier.

Brent,

          When I get a chance, I'll see what I can do about those corners. Right now, I've got alot of work for my online classes.

Jim,
I hear you! The way I would tackle it is with a speed square, pencil, something to use as a spacer, sharp 1" chissel, and a sabre saw (has to be a good one that you can attach a long enough blade to clear the 2x4 and plywood).

Start by tracing the curve from the track to the ply using the spacer and the pencil. Once you find the end points, use the speed square to get the vertical line down the 2x4. Cut the 2x4s vertically along these lines. Then start cutting the curve with the sabre saw making sure to go slow and keep the blade vertical. Once you have the curve cut, place a couple 1x4s on edge along the curve (so the ends are against the curve) I would recommend at least 4. Then measure in from the ends of the 2x4 about 3 inches, mark this spot, and using the speed square make a veritcal line along the 2x4. On the edge of the 2x4 make a vertical line 1/4 inch from the outer edge. Using the 1" chisel clear the 1/4 x 3 inch area. Using 1/8 ply rip it to 3.5 inches with your table saw. Attach one end of the ply to the 2x5 channel with wood screws (may want to counter sink them). Attach the ply to the 1x4 ends. You should end up with a nice curved corner. Then using some good contact cement, or construction adheasive, attach another 1/8 ply strip to the one you just added with the screws, use clamps to keep even preasure (do not use screws). This will result in a nice finished edge. You can then use this to attach your scenery base.

Sounds more difficult than it really is. Take your time and you should be able to do a corner in about 1 hour.

Brent,

           Thanks for taking the time to explain that. Hopefully, I am going to get back to work on the layout tomorrow. I am starting to get stressed already with the workload this semester, and I need to take a break before I get burned out.

I was thinking about how you were saying to elevate each track while I was building a display at work tonight, and I am wondering if I could use pieces of ceiling tiles under the track to elevate it. What do you think?

green97probe:

I was thinking about how you were saying to elevate each track while I was building a display at work tonight, and I am wondering if I could use pieces of ceiling tiles under the track to elevate it. What do you think?

You could use the tiles under the tracks which are now on piers and position these in such a way that they are more like ramps of terrain that flare out from your central elevation. Not sure I explained that very well, but give it some thought and I think you'll see what I mean.

green97probe:

Brent,

           Thanks for taking the time to explain that. Hopefully, I am going to get back to work on the layout tomorrow. I am starting to get stressed already with the workload this semester, and I need to take a break before I get burned out.

I was thinking about how you were saying to elevate each track while I was building a display at work tonight, and I am wondering if I could use pieces of ceiling tiles under the track to elevate it. What do you think?

Yes that would work. The tensil strength isn't great so you would have to stack them (can't use them to span a great distance without some more rigid surface underneath. You will also get some sound deadening from them as well.

 Where can I get the needed parts to put that  fan driven smoke unit  for my 2020's? Thanks.

                                                                                                     Paul

Paul,

            The smoke unit that I used came out of a recent Lionel hotbox reefer. I couldn't stand the reefer any longer, so I removed the smoke unit and threw the rest into a junk box. However, Lionel makes another smoke unit that will fit, and it would be cheaper than sourcing one from a hotbox reefer. I'll get the info and report back.

Paul,

         Here is the info.

Lionel 8057-200 Fan-Driven Smoke Unit

Additional Materials Needed For Installation into 1946 2020 Turbine:

Three 671-181 Stack Gaskets

Loctite Superglue

3M Super 33 Electrical tape.

Installation:

1. Remove boiler from chasis.

2. Remove screw holding smokebox and unsolder lamp lead from collector terminal.

3. Remove two screws holding flapper and remove flapper, spring, and bakelite cam follower.

4. Stack all three gaskets on top of each other and glue them all together.

5. Cover any solder points on top of the smoke unit with electrical tape. Be sure not to cover the air hole for the fan.

6. Glue stack of gaskets to the top of the smoke unit. Be sure that the hole in the gaskets is centered over the hole in the smoke unit.

7. Put a ring of glue on top of the stack of gaskets, and push the smoke unit/gasket stack onto the tube which protrudes down from the boiler.

7. Solder one of the wires from smoke unit's power connection to the collector terminal, and ground the other wire to the chasis.

 In order to get fluid into the unit, use a dropper and insert the point down the stack and into the hole on top of the smoke unit.  Since you have removed the smokebox, you will need to find an alternative for the headlight. I'd suggest buying a repro lens and drilling a hole in the lens to install a white LED. I haven't had time to do this part yet though.