Track Plan and Operation help

Seanthehack

Chris, Stein and Dave,

Your advice and patience means a lot to me so continued thanks.  Stein, it has been a while since I have looked at that website, it was a great reminder of possibilities.  Dave, the current space I have is in a small basement, my availible space there is about 6x6 feet, this would allow for a minimal abount of room for walking around the layout.  If I were going to Home Depot to purchase lumber, right now I would buy enough lumber to build a number 1x2 or 2x2 foot "dominos."  For the time being I have abandoned track plans and am trying to think more about spaces.

I am reconsidering a fixed track plan, I am now thinking that building a layout that can be reconfigured in a couple of different arangements would be best.  Stein has already mentioned this and again I was probably to quick to dismiss the idea.  I am rereading the MR beer line articles to see if I can get some ideas.  Thus, instead of the track plan dictating the space, I am trying to think open spaces and letting that dictate the track plan.

If I am going off the deep end let me know,

Sean

 Doesn't sound like you are going off the deep end to me.

 Just curious - the 6x6 foot area you have available in your current basement - how is it configured - a corner of a bigger room or an area in the middle of floor, or an area under the stairs or a small walk-in storage room of some kind or something else ?

 Got a quick drawing of the basement with some measures ? Rough sketches of rooms can be done in XtrkCad.

 As for making your layout in sections (so it is easy to move and redo), that is a good idea. But I wouldn't try to force yourself into making modules (where the tracks will line up no matter which two modules you try to put up against each other). 

 Just make sections. You might have to take up and relay some track and scenery after a move, if you have to put the sections together in a different way (say an I or L-shape instead of an O-shape), but that is not such a big deal - you will probably want to redo some things anyways as you get more experience with your layout.

 As an illustration of how space 6x6 foot really is in N scale - here is a rough concept sketch of a possible donut shaped N scale layout based on three standard size 4 foot long and 18" deep sections, plus an 6 foot long and 6" deep bridge/staging section and two 12" x 18" corner filling sections, tucked into a 6 foot x 6 foot corner of a bigger room:

 I have not tried to create the scenes - that depends on what you want in your scenes - the look and feel of your model railroad - I have just looked at the mechanics of finding room for staging, several visually separated scenes, runaround around curves etc.

 Observe that quite wide radii and reasonably long train lengths are possible (passenger trains of an engine and two 8-foot passenger cars, or one engine and 7 40' freight cars), and it is possible to do two very different scenes, since when you turn towards one scene, you don't see the other (it is behind you).

 Mmm - 12" radius curves might too tight for 80' passenger curves - wider curves is easy to do possible - just stick a triangular piece on the inside of the two lowermost corners.

  Also observe that there is really nothing preventing you from storing the layout with e.g. the rightmost and bottom sections stored somewhere else (and just being set up on temporary legs when you run) - you really only need one pair of legs - in the lower right hand corner - top of right section and left end of bottom section can e.g. just hang on the adjacent wall or section when in use.

 I am not saying "do it this way or do it that way" - what I am saying is that one (of many) possible approaches to portability is to think sections instead of modules, and consider just redoing/adjusting the sections a little after a move.

 Grin,
 Stein

Hi Sean 

seanthehack

my availible space there is about 6x6 feet, this would allow for a minimal amount of room for walking around the layout. 

Edit: I (Paul) used the different font.

Sorry Sean, I don't understand what you are trying to tell us.

1) Or your roomspace is 6x6;  so with aisles on both sides you can only have the 6x2 pike you were talking about before. Still doesn't makes sense because you wanted access to one side only; leaves you with a 6x4 pikespace.

2) Or your roomspace is sufficient for a 6x6 layout with minimal aisles ( 2' ) around the layout. Makes the roomspace available for planning a nice 10x6 or even 10x8.

We discussed "hard questions" before;  you were asked so many times times to draw a plan of your room. Beside being able to judge the chosen footprint, it's done to avoid the above bull session.

Keep smiling, have fun

Paul

Paul and Stein,

Let me take some meausurement, then I will sketch out the room. I think this will clear a few things up.

Here is the floor plan of my current basement/hobby room.  The triangle between the work bench and the stairs is a door to the garage.  The little rectangle on the wall is the circuit breaker panel.  Under this panel next to the watersoftner/heater is my current 2x4 foot layout.  

Sean

Seanthehack

Here is the floor plan of my current basement/hobby room.  The triangle between the work bench and the stairs is a door to the garage.  The little rectangle on the wall is the circuit breaker panel.  Under this panel next to the watersoftner/heater is my current 2x4 foot layout.  

 Couple of quick questions:

- Door to garage must be kept open, right ? This door is the main route from the garage to the house, and is used many times every day ?

- The stairs that come down towards the bottom of the room are drawn about 6 foot down inside the room - they seem like pretty steep stairs ? Do they start from a room above the garage? No space for anything under the stairs ?

 - How tall is the work bench - anything on the wall above the work bench ?

 - Furnace and water softener/heater - the area indicated include a safety distance (how close you can build)? 

 - How high up is the bottom of the electrical panel you today has your 2x4 foot layout under ?

 - Storage shelves across from laundry - ceiling height shelves ?  Would it be possible to borrow one shelf height as part of a layout ?

  - Laundry area - probably not a good idea to put anything here, but just in case - what's in this area - is room for anything _above_ the laundry area ?

 First impression:  looks like a fairly tough room for a layout - I can see why you feel a bigger permanent layout would be hard to fit in here.

 No other rooms in the house where you could fit a shelf layout ?

 Smile,
 Stein

steinjr

First impression:  looks like a fairly tough room for a layout - I can see why you feel a bigger permanent layout would be hard to fit in here.

 No other rooms in the house where you could fit a shelf layout ?

Hi Sean,

Great job drawing your room. You really have a hell of a job finding layout space in this little basement. Even your 6x2 is difficult to fit in; an added storage shelf will give a bit more much needed air. Did you consider building a couple of domino's in your basement and put them up for the show when you want do some running?

Keep smiling, have fun

Paul 

If your furnace and water heater/softener placement is like mine, about two feet away from the walls, you might have enough space to connect two towns with a six inch wide guard-railed shelf behind the mechanicals.  Have one town over the workbench and another town under the electrical box.  The unsceniced connector might be a dandy way to have some real distance between the two switching areas.

Good Luck

 Doug

Hi everyone,

All in put is being considered put let me answer Stein's questions, in order I hope,

-Yes, the door to the garage is the main enry point into and out of the house so it needs to be keep pretty clear.

-My house is a 1200 square foot townhouse so all of the stairs are fairly steep, the stairs into the basement start from the kitchen which is above the garage.  Under the staris is storage, which is accessed frrom the garage, under the stairs is completly dry walled.  Even though I have not checked the fire code, I believe that they can not be altered for fire stopage purposes.

-The workbench is just below counter height, about 32 inches tall. Above the workbench is a hanging tool board and a hanging cabnet where I keep paints and other modeling supplies.

-I have not checked code, but I am trying to stay between 1 and 2 feet from the furnace and 1/2 to 1 foot from the water softner.

- The bottom of the electrical panel is about 4 1/2 feet off of the ground

-Each of the storage shelves are 4 feet wide, the one around the corner is only about 4 feet tall and the one in the corner is celing height. At one point I was thinking of building a staging yard over top, but I was afraid of interfearance with the breaker panel.

-There is not much above the laundry area accept plumbing and spiders.

-Other rooms? Maybe. I am going to disclose some personal info, so bare with me.  I have a spare bedroom with about the same availible area, it is currently being used as a study.  I returned to school to earn a college degree and when I am at home studying this is where I study. Trains are a big temptation to not study so I really do not want them next to me when I study.  This is also the reason I want the layout to be "portable" I will probably be moving when I graduate.

I am beginning to think that an L shaped layout might be possible, with the long part of the L being 4 1/2 to 5 feet and the short part of the L being 3-4 feet deep and my be 2 feet wide. Or maybe some sort of a figure 8 layout where a train only travels across the scenery once and then disappears under the scenery to complete the 8, then all of the industries would be off of the sceniced area.  What do you all think, possible?

Sean

Depending on how your washer/dryer is arranged, you could mount a shelf narrow enough not to interfere with the controls or loading against the wall. We have an 8" wide shelf over our units, which would be enough space for a staging yard. Reach might be an issue, though.

 So you could have staging over the washer & dryer consoles, run down and around to scene 1 on a storage shelf as Stein suggests, and up to scene 2 in the space below the electrical panel. If possible, you could then continue behind the mechanicals as Doug suggests, to scene 3 over the workbench.

This arrangement may not support your portability goal very well, though.

Edit: looks like our posts crossed - some of the above is now obsolete

Sean,

don't give up so soon. If you can use one shelf used for storage, you could build a pretty nice N-scale layout. Something like this:  

Gives you an idea what is possible in a space like that. You can always build the loop part first and the rest later on. I did not completely hide the staging area, a road with some buildings is creating some distance and you can always reach in, if a derailment occurs in the back.

Have fun and good luck

Paul

Seanthehack

Hi everyone,

All in put is being considered put let me answer Stein's questions, in order I hope,

-Yes, the door to the garage is the main enry point into and out of the house so it needs to be keep pretty clear.

-My house is a 1200 square foot townhouse so all of the stairs are fairly steep, the stairs into the basement start from the kitchen which is above the garage.  Under the staris is storage, which is accessed frrom the garage, under the stairs is completly dry walled.  Even though I have not checked the fire code, I believe that they can not be altered for fire stopage purposes.

-The workbench is just below counter height, about 32 inches tall. Above the workbench is a hanging tool board and a hanging cabnet where I keep paints and other modeling supplies.

-I have not checked code, but I am trying to stay between 1 and 2 feet from the furnace and 1/2 to 1 foot from the water softner.

- The bottom of the electrical panel is about 4 1/2 feet off of the ground

-Each of the storage shelves are 4 feet wide, the one around the corner is only about 4 feet tall and the one in the corner is celing height. At one point I was thinking of building a staging yard over top, but I was afraid of interfearance with the breaker panel.

-There is not much above the laundry area accept plumbing and spiders.

-Other rooms? Maybe. I am going to disclose some personal info, so bare with me.  I have a spare bedroom with about the same availible area, it is currently being used as a study.  I returned to school to earn a college degree and when I am at home studying this is where I study. Trains are a big temptation to not study so I really do not want them next to me when I study.  This is also the reason I want the layout to be "portable" I will probably be moving when I graduate.

I am beginning to think that an L shaped layout might be possible, with the long part of the L being 4 1/2 to 5 feet and the short part of the L being 3-4 feet deep and my be 2 feet wide. Or maybe some sort of a figure 8 layout where a train only travels across the scenery once and then disappears under the scenery to complete the 8, then all of the industries would be off of the sceniced area.  What do you all think, possible?

 Mmmm - possible.

 How about if you took six 48x12 inch (4x1 foot) sections and tried something like this:

Curves shown are 13" radius, which in principle should not be too horrible for N scale.

Layout surface at 48" height (which allows structures on section D to be 6" high and still clear the bottom of the electrical box), each section having 4" high bench work and 6" high scenery, for 10" height per section.

Obviously sections A and B would have to be easily removable for access to the water softener/heater and electrical panel - maybe not even permanently set up - just set up when you want to run trains.

Room to store sections A and B  on shelf brackets beneath section D. If surface of section D is at level 48" and section D benchwork is 4" high, it should be possible to stow away two sections in the 44" of height below section D.

 Sections E and F would have to fit on a shelf (or between shelves, with "tunnels" drilled through the ends of shelves) or if necessary do just one section and a little shorter section to make it fit into a 4-foot shelf. Could be used as staging or as just more layout space.

 It would be a pain in the rear end to have to duck under section C to get in and out of the main pit (e.g. to get to sections E and F) - the bottom of sections A-D would be at just 42" off the floor.

 But if you make the sections separate from the means of supporting them - e.g make lightweight sections from a lattice of 1/4" plywood, like these:

 (section above is 48" long and from 15-22" deep, track and structures are H0 scale - 12" deep in N scale corresponds to about 22" deep in H0 scale).

 You can support these sections on low legs and/or shelves while in your current basement, and just move the sections - e.g. out to the garage in the summertime, or up to your spare bedroom when you are on study break, or to a new home, and put them up on temporary legs that are longer, so you get the layout up to chest height, where it is easier to duck under.

 And you could always just remove the tracks and scenery and reuse the sections themselves for a new layout.

 May or may not work for you.

 It would obviously be a pain to have to take down sections A and B (or section C) to allow access to the electrical panel when you are not running, but given the space you have available, that might be necessary.

 If you at least can leave one, two or three sections permanently set up (say D, E and F), you can park rolling stock there, so you won't have to move all cars off or on the layout every time you set up.

 Anyways - just a suggestion - it will probably trigger a new (and improved) idea from you or someone else, and away we go - ideas is one of the few things here in life you can give away and still end up with more than you started with :-)

 Grin,
 Stein

Paul and Stein,

Both of your suggestions are great!  I am leaning more towards Paul's suggestion though less assemble and disassembly. I have a question for Paul though. If I made the benchwork for the loop 2 1/2 x 5 feet, would that change the layout significantly other than shortned staging and sidings?

Stein, your benchwork suggestion is interesting, would it be possible to put foam on top of the lattice instead of more plywood?

Sean

Seanthehack

Stein, your benchwork suggestion is interesting, would it be possible to put foam on top of the lattice instead of more plywood?

 That should also work, as long as the resulting construction ends up being reasonably rigid, so it won't flex when lifted.

 Or you could put 1/4" plywood on top, and then glue a layer of foam on top of the plywood - gives you the best of both worlds - you can screw stuff under the layout to plywood, and carve and shape the  surface of the layout easily.

 Grin,
 Stein

Dear Sean

It can be done. Because there is less length I had to curve the entrance into Bottoms. The yard in Bottoms could be used for classification. A train coming in from Albany has cars for both interchanges and on the interchange connection (from staging) are cars waiting for Cinder and beyond. Still one of the yard tracks can be used as a team and freighthouse track. 

The trackplans are just to picture what's possible in your space. It is an idea only, having a staging area and two small stations along the line. An interchange track can hold every type of car and often is the  most switched "spur".

I would make a couple of designs fitting in the various footprints (also Stein's); so they become your designs. Try not to think about them for a week and then make the final choice. 

Keep smiling, have fun 

Paul

 I have been pausing in posting to this forum, but kept track of what is going on.

Sean, there is always room to build an interesting and rewarding layout - even in the smallest place. I have been planning my dream layout for months now, only to find out that I can put all my plans into the bin and start anew. Life has been playing some severe tricks on me lately, forcing me to give up my intentions and move in a different direction, also in terms of scale.

I will have only very little space left as we have to move from a big house into a 2-room flat and I will have even less funds to be dedicated to model railroading. My budget will be something like 50 USD a year, but I won´t give up, just stretch the time.

I have come up with a plan which will be very rewarding to operate. It is in N scale (will be hard on my eyes) and fits just about the space you have available. Maybe this can be some food for thought for you as well.

It is a "scenic" switching layout, based on ARR´s operation in Whittier, Alaska. The track plan does not follow prototype trackage, but was designed to allow for the type of operation I want to have, but capturing the atmosphere of the real thing.

 Here it is:

The car float will act as a staging yard. I am pondering to make it detachable, so I can simulate the arrival and departure of "trains". The right leg also will have to be made detachable for storing. It will take me years to complete, but I know it will be fun!

Planning a layout can be awkward, but rewarding in the same time. As stated many times in this forum, it just depends on knowing what you really want to have. Developing a track plan is a lot easier then, and we are all pleased to help you.

Paul, Stein and Maddog.

Thanks as usual for the input.  Paul I think your correct.  I think I need to mock up each idea and see what I like the most because today I am leaning towards Steins design.  I think I am going to cut some card board up in the shape of each layout I see which on I like the most.  From that point I think I will start coming up with some actual track plans, so this thread may reappear in a few weeks.

Maddog, I am sorry to hear about your troubles, but I hope things turn around for you.  This has been an ackward process for me probably with a liitle to much back and fourth on my part.  However, I think it has helped me move to another level of model railroading.  Stein and Paul have forced me to think in ways that I had not consider before.  For which I am eternally grateful.

Sean 

Seanthehack

This has been an ackward process for me probably with a liitle to much back and fourth on my part. 

 Nah - going a bit back and forth is (IMO) a perfectly normal part of the design process.

 Anyways - looking forward to seeing your track plan in a few weeks.

 Smile,
 Stein

 Sean,

going back and forth while planning your layout is just a normal procedure, unless you just want to copy someone else´s design. Your plans will gradually improve, and all of a sudden, you will get this -feeling, telling you, that this is YOUR plan.

Take your time for this important process, only fools rush in!

Hi again,

Sorry to drag up an old tread but I did not want to repeat our previous conversation.  With the long weekend away from school, I have had some time to draw up a new track plan for my up coming layout.  My plan is based on the Chicago and Northwestern RR in Madison, WI.  It is not 100% true to the prototype but it will provide a good base for operations, I hope.  The bottom part of the layout is South Madison with a grain elevator in the bottom left corner, a depot across from it and two industries on the two spurs to be decided on at a later date, I am thinking small brewery and small factory.  The yard at the top is North Madison,  I am not going to model the lakes/Isthmus that separate these two areas in real life.  In the yard the single track on the right will be a rip/storage track.  The turnout on the main heading off the layout will be used as an interchange for now and will hopefully lead to an off layout staging yard at a later date.  The line in the middle is a backdrop.

Now, with regards to the space issue discussed previously I have decided to set the layout in the middle of the room so that it can be operated from both sides.  When is is not in use I plan on pushing it against the wall, I plan on putting the layout on wheels (with locks.)  I decided on a 2 1/2  ft by 5ft layout size because is will be able to be moved easily by two people.  The bench work will be able to be disassembled so I can take the layout with me. 

Even though it is a "boring" old oval I think that by not having track follow the edge of the bench work will provide more visual interest.  By the way, this plan stared as Tony Koester's Wingate, Indiana layout which I heavily modified.  As always suggestions and comments are welcome.

Happy Thanksgiving,

Sean 

Hi Sean, long time ago, good you are back.

Some remarks and a drawing,

Some tracks are pretty close to the edge. I draw my plan with Atlas RT and used the 11.25 radius and #5 switches. It also came close; even after widening the space with 2 inches. With a 10" radius or curved switches you will come out better.

On the Wingate plan was no passingtrack on the visible part, you added four; a bit much. But having the top side of the Wingate layout for staging only, Tony Koester could run East and Westbound trains. On your pike trains will come in only from one direction, it has a different, more an end of the line, character

Somehow Stein made it clear; more is possible with a cassette as I could ever imagine (thx Stein), especially if you have a couple of cassettes.

This plan was drawn to show you how I would use some scenic elements to emphasize the operational scheme. Trains coming in from staging run through South Madison to North Madison. So staging and North Madison had to be far away. Visualy I did it by means of a road overpass with lots of houses. The separation between North and South Madison is done by the lake/river. 

And last but not least also "the backdoor connection" between North and South Madison had to be conceiled; so I removed the double track. The road overpass is doing double duty here. 

have fun
keep smiling

Paul

 Hi Sean -- 

 Good to see you back! And a very good idea to follow up on the old thread - wish more people did that, instead of just jumping in again, just assuming that the readers will remember stuff they posted 300 threads ago :-)

 Looking at your plan,  I agree with Paul - four runarounds/double ended sidings gets to be a little too much for a layout that size.

 Btw - I like Paul's proposal - the scenes look good (as always excellent sketches that clearly show the tracks and the surrounding scenery), and it is easy to visualize operations here.

 Adding a removable cassette for staging is also a good idea here - e.g. easy to turn a train that way (just turn the cassette), and easy to swap one train out for another on another cassette.

 Another couple of island plans with two scenes that may have potential as inspiration for you as is two 4x8 H0 plans from Byron Henderson - should fit into about 32 x  55" or so in N scale, maybe using about 10" radius curves for the sharpest curves: http://www.layoutvision.com/id47.html

Smile,
Stein

 Thanks Paul and Stein,

Yeah, the track is close to the edge but in my version of xtrkcad I do not have the many choices for turnout, #4 and #6 are the only choices I have at the moment.  I agree a couple of curved turnout would be a big help.  Paul your plan was great, it was simple and straight forward.  I think I will keep the South Madison portion, I would like to squeeze a small yard into North Madison because that is what is actually there,  back to xtrkcad.  Hopefully I can get another plan up by the end of the weekend.

 Sean

Seanthehack

 Hmmm - I still think Paul's proposal works better, but here is some suggested minor changes on your plan:

 I've cheated a little - I added 2" of width, to take it from 60 x 30" to 60 x 32".

 Turnouts used are Peco code 80 mediums.

 What I don't like with this suggestion of mine is that I need to use the curve around the right end as switching lead both for both industries - won't work well with two people operating at the same time.

 Easy enough to flip them, but that makes em shorter:

 Probably would have been better with the yard on the outside (in the upper right hand corner), but I don't have time to play with the plan more now - gotta run for my (1:1 scale) train  :-)

 Smile,
 Stein

 Kudos Stein!

The second plan you have drawn represents what I am trying to model, very well.  The extra 2 inches should not be a problem.  I have to run to work.

Sean

hi Sean

Just curious about the possibilities in N-scale. In terms of squares you have a 5 x 2.5 pike. Compared with the 4x2 squares in the usual HO 8x4 a lot more can be done.

The yard along the edge of the pike didn't come out so well, but is quite doable.

In my second plan I am not so sure about the yard tracks continuing under the bridge. At first glance it is looking alright.

have fun , keep smiling.

Paul

Paulus Jas

In my second plan I am not so sure about the yard tracks continuing under the bridge. At first glance it is looking alright.

 Very nice, Paul!

 I think that you have a good scenery plan, a good track plan and a nice mix of industries, too!

 In particular, I like that team track down at the bottom - interchange (with or without a cassette) and team track are good general industries on a small layout.

 I also like that river on the top part. 

 I also like that the two sides (top and bottom) can be switched simultaneously with minimal interference between the two sides.

 Bravo!

 Smile,
 Stein

 BRAVO indeed Paul!

That is one magnificent track plan.  I can not believe you out did Stein.  One question though, what number of turnout did you use in your design?

A Million Thanks, 

Sean

 Hi Sean

Glad you like it, but.........

give Stein some more time and he will find an even better solution.

The plan was drawn with Atlas # 5 code 55 turnouts and various radii from 10"  to 12".

As I said before the cassette and Madison North are supposed to be miles apart, so letting the yard tracks disappear under the the bridge and have them close to the cassette lead, was traded in by a simple elevator complex in my first draft.

If one of the yard tracks crosses the first cassette's lead into a second cassette you can even have some bridge traffic. The track along the edge in North Madison can also be used as an (fiddle) interchange.

I always loved and do love rivers and lakes, so when you mentioned a lake at North Madison I couldn't resist. My designs are rather generic, I wouldn't be surprised as Stein has searched the internet, he is a wizzard, and has found plans of the prototype.

If it was my layout I would probably omit the yard and would try to create a more urban feeling. Like Stein is doing on his pike, but he is modeling MNPL's west bank.

Paul 

Paulus Jas

 Hi Sean

Glad you like it, but.........

give Stein some more time and he will find an even better solution.

 Nah, I don't think so - that looks like a very good plan for a layout in the style Sean is looking for. I don't see anything I would have changed - wish I had your ability to make such nice drawings of scenery and roads and suchlike - you have an excellent (IMO) eye for scenery.

 Smile,
 Stein

 Thanks again Paul and Stein,

One last question before I return to the real world of work and studying.  How do I go about transferring the track plan onto the actual layout?

Sean

hi Sean

I am from the stoneage, so I will tell you how it was done on plywood; the COOKIE_CUTTER_WAY.

1) first draw the grid pattern on your sheet of plywood with a steel ruler.

2) put the turnouts of the main on your table top and check out the desired radius. A yardstick with a nail is a splendid compass. If you use snaptrack just lay out the crirical curves and turnouts. They are coloured red in the picture. This can be done on the floor on a sheet of brown paper as well. Should be done on the floor first actualy, before ordering your sheet of plywood.

3) When everything fits, draw all centerlines and in a different coulor clearance lines on the plywood. The track has to be put on the table between those clearence lines. 

4) Clear the whole table and start the sawing; but never cross the clearance lines.  E.G. the river has to be build lower so that part has to be cut out from the rest of the layout.

But you probably have to tinker a bit.

The most critical curve is between point B en C. The #3.5 wye turnout took less space, compared with the #2.5 and the # 5. Probable the #2.5 wye has some straight sections on it ends and can be shortened. The smaller 2.5 Y-turnout should take the lesser space, so you have some leaway.

Using snaptrack on RT-freeware the tracks between A en B came out straight.

At point D and E s-curves are involved; E could be replaced by a R-switch along the edge of the table; turnout D is on a spot where every inch counts. The whole design depends on getting the part between A, B and C in.

South Madison is not critical; at C and F between the red line and turnout even is a piece of straight.

Be prepared to compromise a bit. If using a 9.75 radius will make all the difference do it. Or if possible, add another inch of width to your table.

The beauty of brownpaper on the floor is finding out, before running to the shop.

BTW Atlas Ready Track Freeware is free, if you intend to use Atlas track you can make a 1:1 print of all the trackparts you intend to use, and you can glue them on to the brown paper and check out your plan.

And buy a good book on benchwork, How To Build Model Railroad Benchwork by Linn Westcott is called a landmark by Andy Sperandeo in 102 Realistic Trackplans.  At least have a look at grids on girders

Paul