General Discussion (Model Railroader)

When picking up my rolling stock to photograph I noticed a considerable difference in weight from one car to another.  I think I remember the formula suggested by NMRA: one oz. + 1/2 oz. for each inch of real length.

My questions:

1. Where should the additional weight be located?  In the middle, over the trucks, both?

2. I have read that pennies are good weights, yes/no?

3. I would like to use Goo as the adhesive.  Goo is flexible and will allow me to move the weight around...

Thanks
  

My preference is to add the weight, evenly split, over the trucks whenever possible.  Since the additional weight is to help it track better, putting it over the trucks provides the best benefit.

I prefer either self adhesive tire weights or buckshot, pound for pound my guess is cheaper than pennies and easier to make fine adjustments to weight.

I would avoid Goo if in an enclosed car.  Goo is solvent based and the fumes have been reported to cause cars to soft and deform.  Use silicone or adhesive caulk.

I've had good luck with the self adhesave weights. I place them over the trucks. Only 1 layer though. The car will be top-heavy and wobble and derail.

trainman6446:

self adhesave weights

Where did you buy them?  Lowes?  Or are they made for the modeling crowd?

rclanger:

1. Where should the additional weight be located?  In the middle, over the trucks, both?

Doesn't really matter as long as it is balanced between the ends.  You can put it over the ends, you can put it in the middle you can do both.

2. I have read that pennies are good weights, yes/no?

They are handy, they are reasonably uniform in size and they cost pennies to use.

Down side you need to use caulk or something with body to hold them, they are kinda bulky, they are round and even though they cost pennies they can be more expensive in the long run than some of the weights.

3. I would like to use Goo as the adhesive.  Goo is flexible and will allow me to move the weight around...

I use latex caulk.  Will not harm plastic.  Goo has solvents that can over time damage some plastics.  Silicone caulk will also work but you have to be very, very neat.

The formula I use for car weight is a modification of the NMRA practice. I use one ounce per ten scale feet of car length. A 50 foot car would weigh 5 ounces. This dose make the cars slightly heavier than NMRA practice  though.

For weights I go to our local tire centre and get the used tape weights for mag wheels. They are either 1/4 or 1/2 ounce sections. I soak the weights in lacquer thinner for a few minutes to remove the tape.       Walthers Goo or contact cement is used to fasten the weights as low in the car as possible and over the trucks at each end of the car balanced evenly.

rclanger:

When picking up my rolling stock to photograph I noticed a considerable difference in weight from one car to another.  I think I remember the formula suggested by NMRA: one oz. + 1/2 oz. for each inch of real length.

My questions:

1. Where should the additional weight be located?  In the middle, over the trucks, both?

Doesn't matter.  Just balance the weight to get the same amount of weight on both trucks.  And the same amount of weight from side to side too.

rclanger:

2. I have read that pennies are good weights, yes/no?

Pennies work and the price is pretty low.  For house cars with lots of room, I use just any old bit of metal I have lying around the shop.  For max weight in min volume you can't beat lead.  I get sheet lead used for flashing at the hardware store.  I am going to try to sweet talk used lead wheel weights out of my friendly local garage.  

rclanger:

 

3. I would like to use Goo as the adhesive.  Goo is flexible and will allow me to move the weight around... 

Goo is bad for plastics.  Makes them warp after a while.  I use silicone bathtub caulk.  It bonds well to darn near anything. even dirty things.

I, too, like the silicone caulk for fixing weights.  Very little or low residue odor and peels back up, if needed.

Tom

rclanger:

1. Where should the additional weight be located?  In the middle, over the trucks, both?

Over the trucks is best, especially if you want to open box car doors.

rclanger:

2. I have read that pennies are good weights, yes/no?

I use 3/8" or 5/16" washers purchased in bulk from Menards or Home Depot. They vary in weight from .15 oz to .30 oz, allowing more accurate weight. I also use ALine self adhesive weights for some applications.

rclanger:

3. I would like to use Goo as the adhesive.  Goo is flexible and will allow me to move the weight around...

I use DAP Kwik-Set bathroom adhesive for most applications and double sided tape for some narrow surfaces, such as hoppers. Works just fine and is easy to remove with an Xacto knife and water.

Hope this helps.

Len S.

trainman6446:

self adhesave weights

Where did you buy them?  Lowes?  Or are they made for the modeling crowd?

I picked mine up at the LHS. You can probably get them through Walthers also. Have not seen anything like them at lowes though.

 i cabbaged on to a bunch of old lead wheel weights.  they can be chopped to any length to get the weigt needed.  after filling the flat side smooth, i install them over the trucks with double stick foam mounting tape.  none have come loose in over ten years.  for hoppers, i make a triangle pattern out of styrene that will tuck up underneath between the hopper doors and the use the pattern to make a mold in aluminum foil in a box of sand.  then i can melt the wheel weights with a torch and cast my own weights.

grizlump

 I use pennies.  At 11 cents per ounce I don't know of anything cheaper except free.  Personally, I use white glue, spread the pennies out evenly and pour enough white glue to cover them.  Of course, for boxcars, if the door is to be open you'll have to put them at the ends or disguise them. For hoppers, if they don't come already weighted I add a load and put the pennies loose in the bottom - the sloped bottoms keep them from shifting.

I have also used finishing nails that I got for free - leftover from my brother's basement  remodeling. But I find them a little harder to glue in place and arrange evenly from end to end.

Fortunately, most of my RTR cars are already weighted.

Enjoy

Paul

I just bought a set of Tichy reefer kits and they supply 2, 5/8" nuts for the weights. The floors of the cars have hexagonal ridges to position the weights over the trucks. I'm looking forward to the build. BILL

Self adhesive weights are available at most LHS, through onlineproviders such as the A-Line, Micro Mark, 1st Place Hobbies, to mention a few and many other options.

 I like using double-sided foam tape to attach weights.  Works well, won't eat the plastic like Goo. 

To add weight, I usually use the self adhesive wheel weights.  Buy these at an auto parts house, unless you like to spend a lot more to buy the A-line ones.  

Make sure the cars roll well before adding weight.  Cars that don't roll well cause many problems, and the added weight makes things worse.  

Usually adding the weight over the trucks is the way to go.  Sometimes there isn't room, so the weight goes towards the middle.  Try to keep things balanced.  

You have listed the NMRA RP for HO car weighing.  I usually follow it, sometimes go a little heavier.  Free rolling wheels help a lot.