General Discussion (Model Railroader)

 A while back I started building one of the unpowered 1/25 scale AMT/Ertl models of the old 4-4-0 General, produced about 30 years ago.  It is a nice kit, but I'm having some decal problems.  The first two stripes on the tender went on well, but the third one broke, so I took advice and sprayed the rest of the decal sheet with clear gloss Krylon spray.  This, of course made the decals thicker and the next stripe would not lay down properly, using Micro-Scale Micro-Set and Micro -Sol, the latter in repeated applications.  Would a stronger setting solution like Champ decal set work better?  I also tried isopropyl alcohol, which someone suggested, but that did nothing.

 The kit came with two decal sheets, so I'm not dead in the water yet, but as these decals are not available anymore, I have a question about copying them.  Will it work to copy the decal sheet on a scanner and print them out with a computer printer on blank decal sheet?   That way, I could be sure of having enough decals to complete the locomotive, even if I broke some.

Does anyone know what is in decal setting solutions?  Micro-Set smells like acetic acid used in photography and Micro-Sol smells a bit like nail polish remover or weakened acetone.  Any advice is appreciated.

 Bob Yarger

Tip #1 - Use VERY WARM water when you soak the decals.  It softens the glue quicker and makes the decal softer and more pliable.

Tip #2 - If the decal doesn't have any white parts you might be able to have a color laser copy of it made onto decal paper.  The colors won't be as opaque as the original.  Seal them with a coat of dullcoat.

Tip #3 - Contact AMT/Ertl about purchasing a set of decals.

Solvaset is a stronger decal set than the one you are using; just don't touch or try to move/adjust the decal when it starts to take hold. It may become wrinkled, but will settle down when the Solvaset dries. If you touch the wrinkled decal, you will destroy the decal.

A decal breaking is an indication of an old, brittle decal. A good fix, better than clear paint is to get a spray can of Testors Decal Bonder. It's primary use is to seal the ink on do-it-yourself decals, which they sell kits and components, but it's a thin sealer that should hold old decals together without adding an unacceptable thickness to the decal film.

http://www.testors.com/product/0/9200/_/Decal_Bonder

I've had very good success making my own decals on my computer.  It takes a bit of patience, but once you get the hang of it you will have a versatile modelling tool.

I have a cheap inkjet printer, so I use inkjet paper.  (You must use the right paper, laser or inkjet, to have any hope of this working.)  After I print the decals, I let them dry for several hours at least, and preferably overnight if the air is humid.  Then I paint on Microscale's Liquid Decal Film, wait a few more hours, and add a second coat.  I found that it really helps to put weights down on the edges of the paper to keep it from curling.  If the paper isn't flat, the decal colors might bleed.

You can't print white, and light colors don't come out well, either.  What you can do is paint the model white, and apply the decal to that, letting the clear decal show the white underneath.