General Discussion (Model Railroader)

I usually do some of both...sort of. For brick buildings, I've sprayed the walls with a reddish brick color, then painted some of the individual bricks with contrasting shades of red, brown or dark gray. I then apply some powdered charcoal for an overall patina, and seal it in with a spray of flat finish. Then I add mortar with gray oil-based chalk.

However, I have sprayed the walls gray or a light tan mortar color, then used an art marker to "paint" the raised bricks red or brown, leaving the recessed mortar areas gray. Then as above, color some individual bricks etc. etc. except you don't need to do the mortar/chalk at the end.

Whenever possible I use Tamiya spray cans, the paint comes out in a fine spray and gives great results compared to some of the older style paint can paints.

Since I don't have an airbrush, hand painting is pretty much the only way I do it.  I do, occasionally, use a spray can for priming parts.

Tom

 I pretty much brush paint everything. I do a lot of wood structures and often thin the paint on the first coat to get a weathered paint look right away. This works on rolling stock as well. I cannot figure why one would paint something solid then try to make it look aged later. works for me.

Dave

You would have to put me in the brush catagory on this, i do at times think about how nice an airbrush would be, especially when i am painting lots of little tiny windows/frames, but then considering the time it would take to set up, spray and then clean the gun i am really not sure it's a big savings, and as far as the work it seems good to me so....plus i can sit on the couch with the Worlds Greatest Wife as i work on and paint stuff, so thats an added bonus, at least to me, now she might have other thoughts! lol.

 Since I use wood to build structures and rolling stock, I use a brush to stain or paint them. I have an airbrush but have nowhere to use it (apartment living). I use craft acrylics and oil paints because of the variety of colors They are also much cheaper than hobby paints.For wood, especially in the larger scales, brush painting looks realistic with no brush marks.

I've used both methods and I prefer just using a brush.  I've been painting a few DPM kits lately and its just easier using a brush, especially for all the window frame detail then it would be using the air brush.   If I didn't know better I would never be able to tell if they were painted with a gun or a brush.

I don't use an airbrush because I don't have one.  When I read articles in magazines the author always seems to use an airbrush to achieve the results being written about. No brushed models are ever featured, none that I can remember anyway. The effects obtained using an airbrush in the hands of an experienced modeler are fine, very fine indeed. I usually think about using an airbrush when I see these reults and think that I am probably behind the times - yet I still seem to continue with brushes.

Most of my structures have been built using kindling wood and brush painting using acrylic washes and stains gives me very satisfactory results, results that I am pleased with run from a near to brand new paint job to representing a building that has suffered from decades of exposure to the sun, wind, sand and rain. I have dozens of paint brishes - they are different in size, they range from course, stiff, fine, wide, pin point - all sizes and shapes. I like the  tactile and controled way that I can use brushes and the results I get from using them. I enjoy the process of brush painting, thats all.

All my weathering of locomotives, freight and passenger cars - not that there has been much at this time, has all been done with brushes and chalks/powders.

Bruce

chuckmemphis:

The only (in my opinion) way to get the blending of color that any building (unless it is brand new) is with a wet blend with a brush.

chuck

Chuck,Try a "almost dry brush" approach..The paint comes out "faded"..

I like my brush.  I really really do.  I like the subtle varations of the paint. 

But someplaces brushes are not appropriate.  For example: Creating transitional streaks (ie: wide area rust streaks/spots) are so much harder to do with a brush.  Or preserving rivit detail on a metal plate.

But air brushes and cans give you so much more oportunity for a realistic job, WHEN USED PROPERLY.