5 Tips for Kit Building

Recently I've attempted to build a Central Valley Truss Bridge kit. I'm still a novice when it comes to kit construction, and this was my first kit bash. Needless to say, I learned a lot. Earlier this week I was writing a post for my blog and tried to come up with 5 tips I would give a fellow beginner who was just starting out with kit construction.

Here's the list I came up with:

1. Read the directions
2. Have the necessary Tools
3. Paint the plastic pieces
4. Layout all the parts before you start gluing
5. Be careful with the knife

Looshi:

1. Paint the plastic pieces

Paint makes a tremendous difference in the looks of a model.  Even if the plastic is molded in the right color it wants a coat of paint to kill the shiny plastic gloss.  

"Layout all the parts before you start gluing"

Do you mean test fit w/ this step?  Because I find that very important, as it may show where a little sanding and filing may save a whole lot of patching, gluing, cutting and clamping (then again, if the kit is really bad anyway, you may not have any choice but to patch, cut, clamp etc.).

 amen.  now to elaborate on the tools.  i have been in this hobby over 45 years and i found that i could do my best work only with the proper, high quality tools.  as you go, you will have opportunities to aquire decent equipment to work with and it will make life so much easier.  for instance, i am sure there are some guys out there still trying to cut flex track with a two dollar hack saw from walmart.  no wonder there is a bit of frustration and resistance among newbies to use flex track.  a good pair of rail nippers will probably cost you 10-30 bucks depending on the brand and where you buy them.  but when properly cared for they will last a lifetime.  there have been several articles in the model magazines about tools necessary for this hobby.  read them and learn.  for example, an inexpensive goose neck lamp on your work desk will pay for itself in no time.  without good lighting, no amount of magnification will help.  maybe instead of another locomotive you really don't have room for, invest in a miniature drill press or dremel tool. overall, proper high quality tools make the hobby a lot more fun and help to eliminate the frustration that keeps so many of us from completing our projects.  to paraphrase homer simpson, without the right tools trying becomes the first step on the road to failure.

grizlump

chutton01:

"Layout all the parts before you start gluing"

Do you mean test fit w/ this step?  Because I find that very important, as it may show where a little sanding and filing may save a whole lot of patching, gluing, cutting and clamping (then again, if the kit is really bad anyway, you may not have any choice but to patch, cut, clamp etc.).

Test fitting definitely falls under this step. I was thinking more along the lines of making sure you have enough pieces. Even if the manufacturer includes the proper amount of pieces, if you use them improperly or you use a piece for a step it wasn't designed for then you may find yourself running out of something you need later. 

I elaborated on this some more on my blog, but I think test fitting is an important part of the process.

I also agree with what was said about tools. I still have many more tools to get, but just adding simple things like a file or a saw have really done wonders for my model building skills.

Another thing about files. Have two files on hand. You have one file for plastics and a the other file for metals. Dont cross use them, because the metal file will destroy the plastic much quicker with the little metal particals still stuck to the file.  So 2 files with different colors on the handles to separate the two.

 Also for one of the expensive Z track cutters head to your friendly Wally World. Go to the crafting section and pick up a imatation Z track cutters for about $7.00 dollars compaired to 15-30 dollars. The only difference is the handle length. The cutters sold at Wally World were shorter than the Z cutters. And also with these keep the track cutters separtrate from the wire cutters. When cutting different sizes of wires you will come in contact with different hardness of the wires. You cant judge the pressure that you will put on the handles, thus you will find notches in the tip of the cutters. If you use the same cutters that you used for cutting wires on that new piece of Flex track, you will not get a clean cut on the track. So 2 cutters also, one for track and one cutter for wires.

 Another thing when cutting track. Cut the track Horazontal from the track. This way you will get a cleaner cut and wont have trouble ith crushed railheads.   Just my .02 cents; well ok .50 cents!  KB

1. Take your time (and breaks) - this is a "life-long" HOBBY
2. Read the directions and look at the pictures (frequently)
   
3. Paint the small items while on the sprue (after you carefully read the directions and look at the pictures).
4. use nippers or a very sharp hobby knife to remove parts and then trim back the remaining nibs (I scrape with a cheap hobby knife and/or a file - mini-sets available at Home Depot)
5. Test fit when ever possible and apply liquid glue with a small brush (sparingly) making sure there is no paint in the way.
   

Everytime I get in a hurry ... there's this one lil place the paint is'nt quite set ... of course I have to lift it to check out the paint job .... BAM ... there's a fingerprint ....  ... LOL .

 Watching paint dry is always a log of fun 

Dremel tool?

I think that should be the second tool a modeler should buy, first being an Exacto knife.  It is amazing how many things you can do with a Dremel tool, and I don't even have all of the attachments that they make.

Don't skimp on hobby knife blades!  Dull blades don't work very well.  Micro Mark and others offer packages of 100 #11 blades for X-Acto knives for around $12.00.  On projects, change blades frequently!

I have several knives on the go all the time.  One with new blade, and when it starts to dull I place its blade in holder #2.  I use #2 for the rough stuff, scraping, etc.   The larger X-Acto blades with the soft rubber handles are better to work with than the small aluminum handles.

Test fitting parts is a must.

Follow the assembly sequence, the order of assembly is most important. Yes after figuring out the subassemblies, you can work on those. This is esspecially true if they need to be done for airbrushing same paint colors etc.

Never remove parts from a sprue until you are ready to dry fit and complete that assembly. This is much more critical on kits w/ extensive pieces that appear similar.

An example is the ME viaduct, there are many of the parts that appear identical, however, they are not interchangable. Chasing loose parts and all the trial fits to get it right can be a real pain.

Paint those small parts on the sprue. It may be nec. to scrape paint off joints for the best penetrating bond.

Instead of constantly changing out the #11 blade, I will dress the edge/ tip on a honing stone. It is a must to use a new blade for despruing those extremely delicate pcs.(brake parts, air lines, rail/ stanchions etc)

 I'll offer one "tools" suggestion:  Buy good quality artists brushes.  Expect to pay about $3-$7 each.  It seems pricy for a stick with hair on one end, but the difference it makes is HUGE.  If you take care of them they will last as long as a dremel tool (or longer).

Doc in CT:

1. Take your time (and breaks) - this is a "life-long" HOBBY

I heartily second this!  Patience is critical to success.

I recently built a house with 20 exterior wall sections.  I glued the walls into sub-assemblies, then assemblies of sub-assemblies, then glued those assemblies together.  It took 3 evenings, but I'm VERY pleased with the results.