Layouts and layout building

I am going to make a chain link fence utilizing plastic rods and toule. What is recommended to glue the toule to the plastic rod posts?

Thanks

 I would assume a thin/medium viscosity CA would fit the bill nicely...

Probably thin CA as mentioned. Less chance to plug the holes.

ROTSARUCK AND PATIENCE!

I haven't done this but I have thought about it.

1. Make a drawing and cover it with waxed paper.

2. Cut the posts a little long and tack them down at each end over the drawing with Walther's Goo or Pliobond. Leave them long enough so you can cut them off it they are stuck to the waxed paper.

3. Cut a strip of Tulle about a half inch too long and a little too wide.

4. Tack down one end of the Tulle and stretch it over the posts. Tack down the other end.

5. Use the tip of a round toothpick dipped in CA or use a syringe with Walthers Goo. Fast Tracks sells a syringe for this.

6. Spray lightly with a 50/50 mixture of aluminum and grey flat paint well thinned.

7. Remove carefully from the plan and paint the other side.

8. Trim the top of the posts. Mark the bottom of the posts along a line and drill holes for mounting.

i have been making a chainlink fence over the last few days for my ho module. i am using code 80 n scale rail for the posts and rails that i have soldered together on a pattern that i made on a piece of 1" x 6" wood. the first piece i'm making is about 20" long. after soldering the rail together i painted it with a light coat of floquil rust so some of the shine from the rail shows through. i then used gap filling ca to gently glue the tulle to the posts and rails. do not stretch the tulle as it will distort the mesh. i used lead weights around the edges to keep some tension on the tulle while i glued it down. then when the ca had set up i sprayed on some gloss coat to stiffen the material so i could later dry brush some more rust on the mesh lightly to allow some of the silvery color of the tulle show through. while it's still laying flat on my pattern i'm going to glue some vines and other growth on it then install it on my module. i would have liked to use code 55 rail instead of the code 80 but i didn't have any

If using Walther's chain link fence kit, making a gluing jig is a huge help.  I drilled evenly spaced holes into a strip of wood to accept the posts and to align them to each other (use a drill press).  I ripped the strip down the center to create two pieces that matched exactly and then ripped one in 1/2 to split the drill holes.  The strip with the full holes gets glued to a base for the bottoms of the fence posts and the split strip with 1/2 holes gets laid parallel to it so that it supports the middle of the posts. 

Pop each pole in the bottom hole, twist it so the bent tops all align. 

I suggest tossing the wire that comes in the kit for something more rigid - very thin piano wire or plastic rod.  Tack the rod down across the tops and bottom of the poles in the jig and let set.

Then lay the fence material across all the poles and top/bottom braces.  Tack it down with thin CA in a few place and let that set.  Then come back and carefully CA it in just enough spaces to make it secure.  If you get too much CA it will fill the holes in the fence and look bad when you paint the finished fence sections. 

When you lift it out of the jig, it is a solid unit. 

I love it.     So many ways to attack the same problem.
I made a jig on a 1'x4' by drawing my outline and using small nails to hold my wire in place (coat hangers). I soldered the post and top rail together and placed a thin coat of CA glue on this frame.My chain link is black fiberglass screen wire cut on a 45 degree angle and pressed over the glued frame. My wire was cleaned with steel wool and sprayed with clear coat. Makes nice galvanized fence posts.
What ever floats your boat works.

Happy railroading

Lee

Unfortunately due to the new forum and its temporary lack of searching past posts I am unable to relate my past experience with the Walther's chain link fence.

But I will equate it to having root canal on all your teeth without benefit of anesthetic. I built the electric substation with the chain link fence around it. I experimented with different CA formulars finally settling on an instant-cure CA. I also used (thanks to my wife) some spring type hair clips and paper clips to hold the chain link to the rails while gluing.

This was a task I will won't be repeating for a long, long time again.

Doc

If you're using CA for this, have a bunch of toothpicks around.  Apply the CA to the posts with a toothpick, so that you get only the amount you want.  After you put the tule down, press it into place with a toothpick, also.  Don't use your fingers.  The glue will come through the tule and stick to your fingers.  It seems to stick to fingers better than anything else.

 I would use Super Glue Gel. A few tiny dots on each pole, It doesn't run all over the place like other CA's.

When I build the fence, I'll usually use white thread and tie the links  to the posts in the corners and cut off the excess. then I'll use a toothpick and dap it into a puddle of CA glue and glue the rest of the links to the fence posts....chuck