Railway design, construction, and gardening

      I would like to know what to use to support track in mulch and dirt.  I want to make sure the track doesn't move.  Any help would be appreciated.

I started out using pea gravel for ballast but it didn't pack in place and would roll away from the track. I changed to crushed granite but it was large for 1:29. Since moving to the Sierra Nevada Mountains I use our natural ground (decomposed granite) screened. It dosen't wash away, holds track in place and looks good.

Good luck, Rob 

When I laid my track it was decided to lay it a dirt level, my family were not enamoured with posts and planking, resembling a short fence, all over the place.  They said it would not look it's best.  I think they were right.

I dug a trench just over 6" wide and 4" deep.  I had lots of thick timber pieces which were of short length which I laid on short pieces of disused  fence posts cut to the width of the trench.

This has given me a substantial, but easily removed if necessary, base.  Ballast, in the form of chippings was laid on the timbers and it had proved to be a well engineered and trouble free roadbed.  Curves, some on low embankment, used aggregate blocks instead of the timbers. They were shorter and make an easy curve.

The station and depot area have track laid on pavours/flag stones. This is ballasted but not so aggressively. 

Track is loose laid and only constrained at a bridge and grade crossing.

Hi,   Here in the UK I use themo lite blocks they can be cut to shape by a good saw also they are light I must have about 150+ layed on my layout then I tap an odd nail though the sleepers to hold track in place I use 4mm grit as ballast its cheap so doesent cost to much to replace when birds have scattered it only do that once a year

It also depends on where you live.  The way you do track in the south may be different than in the North due to frost.  I live in NW NJ were we get cold snowy winters and warm wet summers.  So far all I did was dig a 6 inch trench.  Then I put crusher fines from my local quarry.  I then packed it in real good.  Once it was packed down I layed my track down and then added more crusher fines on top  to fill in the gaps.   Then I wet dowm a few times to let the crusher fines settle.  Once everything settles down the crusher fines hold the track in place like cement but if you need to rip it up it still comes up easy. It had handled heavy rains so far.

I use the ladder method of construction.   The track will not move.  

I use flex track, which gives you nice smooth curves.

I have a construction log over here:  http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=6204

Hi Railroader 21,  Most of my GRR is 4 years old and what worked for me was a trench app 4 inches deep by 5 to 6 inches wide filled with tamped crush small rock.  Next step was dry concrete mix formed on top app 2 inches with beveled edges using a trowel, then took a spray bottle and sprayed it with water, next day a sound road bed.  To this date only a few cracks but ballast covers them.  I let my track float for our 100 degree days.  An other thing that works for me is 1/2 inch concrete tile backer for stations and other flat areas, it too makes good road bed.  You can drill holes in it for plants.

Allen

Trench it , fill the trench with crusher fines , decomposed limestone , or whatever you can get in your area ( I use chicken grit) compact it , then put your tracks on top. Afterward go back and ballast the tracks as usual . As Sawdust said let the track float . The ballast will hold it in place just like the real thing .

When laying track, just think of how the real RR's lay theirs. No wood base, concrete or plastic base, just rock and stone. No need to reinvent the wheel here. The important thing is to have fun doing it and remember that even the real RR's have to go back periodicly and re-ballist, just make that a part of your operations.

 Have fun......

Regards,

Mark