Toy train operating and collecting

After 30+ yrs of having a 12 x 8 layout.... I now have none....and need to build one quick! :-)

Due to space my new layout must be a shelf type design... that will wrap around a 20x20 ft room....so It should have plenty of nice long runs. 

Any suggestions on how to create a shelf system... hide wiring... etc.. would be appreciated. 

 Thanks

Andy

Here are my unorthodox suggestions:

Put all the complexity, like yard throats, reversing loops, etc., into corner modules.  Then connect those corners with straight parallel tracks.  This way, if you ever move the layout to another space, you can reuse all of the complicated stuff and only need to adjust the straight sides.

I use 15/32-inch BC plywood supported from the floor, not the walls, with 1 1/2-inch PVC pipe legs.  Each leg is connected rigedly to the plywood by a 1/4-20 eyebolt with a 1/2x2-inch bolt through the pipe and eye.  I put the legs freely wherever I need support and bolt steel angles under the plywood with 1/4-20 carriage bolts wherever the span might sag.  (The angles don't actually connect to the legs.)  I use the space under the table for bookcases, cabinets, desk, and workbench.

I agree with Bob on trying to keep the switches on corner sections.  Another advatage of this is it leaves more yard space on straight sections for spurs and sidings.  I deviated from this only to give some variety to the track plan.  On reflection I could have had longer straights for parking longer trains had I kept the yard thoats in the corners.  Didn't think at the time that I'd ever be running 15 car trains like I do now.

Bob certainly is wise in using the overkill method of supporting his layout.  This is expecially important if a layout can be leaned on or bumped into...not to mention the odd time you wish to climb on it.  On the other hand we sometimes need to blend a layout into an existing den or family room.  In my case the shelf layout is 6'6" off the floor so I could avoid a duck under at the den door and not bite into valuable living space.  I supported my wider yard area ( 2' wide ) by mounting premade kitchen cabinet units ( 16" high units, like those mounted over a kitchen sink ) on the walls for the layout to rest on.  While sturdy metal shelf brackets are available I chose to make a plate rail affair to support the 9" wide straight runs.  I left a 1" trough around the layout against the wall for wiring so that nothing showed underneath.   I can ( heaven forbid ) remove the layout rather quickly yet leave the support methods as part of the rooms finishing details, which ultimately was my goal...or so my wife said

Bruce Webster 

Thanks for the input and suggestions....but I need to clarify the layout.... it will be a shelf layout but will need to be above the doors and windows....so it will be at least 8ft off the floor.

thanks

SS,
If I were doing this I would rip 3/4 ply to 3.5 inches. These would be used as backers for the stringers and anchored to studs. Before anchoring I would determine how wide the shelf needs to be, then cut dimensional lumber (1x4) to the needed length - 1.5 inches. I would then place these boards edge on to the backerboards and secure with 3 inch wood screws (three per stringer). I would also drill 3/4 - 1 inch holes in the stringers for wire runs.

Then mount the backerboards to the wall.

The shelf lays flat on top of the stringers, flush with the wall. You can now begin laying track and running your wires through the wire run holes. When you are finished, you can put a piece of 1/4 on the front to hide the stringers and then put furniture grade ply underneath (1/4 inch should be fine) to hide the bottom. Then put some trim molding along the top and bottom edges to hid the ply bands.

That is what I did, wall/ceiling mount line, but I regret not doing a little more planning/thought before I started. Currently I only have a single line, had I given it more thought I would liked to have left room against the wall for building facades, etc. and made it wide enuff for at least one long siding but preferrably a second main.

Attached you will see what I used and how it is mounted:

Subroadbed= 3/4 " Baltic Birsc Plywood

Wall Anchors= 1X2 verticals

                         1x3,4's horizontal supports

Ceiling Mounts= 1x4 topiece attached to ceiling rafters

                           3/8 dowel verticals

                            1x2 base support