General Discussion (Model Railroader)

Hi from Belgium,

Well I use Fast Track jig since more than one year in Nscale code 55.

As you think tolerances are very thight in Nscale; so in the beginning I have some trouble with the first build turnouts.

First You need to use ME track  exclusively because the jig are milled for this type of track.

I have the same problems with the points like you in the beginning; the solution was just to find the good place to fit the rail in the filling point jig.

I cut just a millimeter to the end of the filling track to use only good sturdy track, check the CD that Tim provide with the jig kit where it show it very precisely.

It's a good idea to see the CD two or three times to see all the small building methods.

I prefer to use rosin flux to avoid acid future problems. Sand the pc ties and wash the rail before soldering; wash your and hands too. and work with clean tools. Push the rail strongly on the pc ties in the jig, I use heavy blocs of steel to maintain the rail in the jig when soldering

After a few mistakes I now build a turnout in 40 minutes ready to install and beleive me they are the "Rolls" of aviable turnouts on the market.

Marc  

I agree, the Fast Tracks jig-built turnouts are the Rolls of the turnout market. The one glaring item that is missing from Fast Tracks turnouts is tie plate and spike head detail.

I have found you can use Central Valley Turnout tie strips (available for $4 each) as a kind of poor man's jig and replace a few of the plastic ties with PC ties. The resulting turnout is as excellent of a performer as the Fast Tracks turnouts, but has great tie plate and spike head detail as well! Here's a photo from my web site of a turnout built this way:

(Click image for a larger view)

I cover how to build these turnouts step-by-step on my web site. 

Even though this method does not use the full Fast Tracks turnout jig, it uses a lot of their methods and I'm a firm believer in their point/frog filing and soldering tools. They are a huge time saver and worth every penny if you have a lot of turnouts to build.

If you are put off by the $100+ price of the Fast Tracks aluminum jigs and you are modeling in HO, consider using the CVT tie kits as a kind of poor man's jig. At $4 each, the ties come with self-gauging rail slots, which makes them work almost as well as the Fast Tracks jigs. 

Neutrino wrote:

Walthers part # 255-17070 is code 70 non-weathered, part # 255-17083 is non-weathered code 83 and they are both shown to be in stock. You get 33 pieces, 3' long.

Thanks for that link. Getting stuff here to Sweden is one of the things putting me on hold as to ordering. So I have a question. Are their any ties available from Walthers so that I can get everything but the jig from Walthers?(Needed for future purchases)

Magnus

mikesmowers wrote:

Yea, I didn't cut that one. I cut the first one with my Dremmel tool and one of those thin cut off wheels that break very easily, then my dremmel tool died. Thanks anyway.      Mike

The first couple I did I used a dremel.  The I got a jeweler's saw.  It takes a little longer, but the gap is much smaller, and there's accidental nicks in the rails you don't mean to cut!  (In N scale everything is really close together!)  Try it, I think you'll like it!

I hope you are not soldering your rail to the "H" tie.  That would be a mistake.  You only use that Tie if you are going to HINGE your points.  You have continuous rail and only need to solder to the "S" tie.  If you soldered to the H tie, your point wont line up correctly (you change the pivot point) and it will be very stiff.

Ive built a bunch of these turnouts with great results.  I recommend watching the videos over and over until you can exactly replicate what he is doing.

Hope this helps.

David B

For all you looking for hand-laid track supplies, I would reccomend Becker's Model Railroad Supply.  His website is not exactly "state of the art" and the discount schedule can be a little hard to understand, but once you figure that out I've found they have the best prices (and availability) on ME rail and ties.  This is especially true if you can afford to buy several packages at once if you will need that much rail.

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/wcbecker/bmrshome.htm

Also - as for making "quality" turnouts... Just keep going!  My first ones were pretty rough, but after a few you pick up a knack and they really start looking GREAT.  They also run excellent and you will be very happy with their performance.  No one mentioned a standard track gauge yet, I hope that is because everyone just assumes this is a required tool for this work and worth using it often!

Cheers,

Bryan

Once you learn how to build a turnout without jigs, it doesn't matter what rail you use, you can get the same results.  Code 40 or code 100.

Dave H.

Hey mikesmowers, regarding one of your original questions about using Atlas flextrack to build turnouts, my answer is 'yes'.  Same as you, I used some old, never to be used again code 100 flex and built several turnouts, #7 and up.  I'm not sure the code 100 rail could be used for anything less than a #7.  As a note, I didn' use the Fastrack jigs or anything else pre-fab- these were built from scratch using an old MR article from the early 90's I think....cutting my own ties, soldering my own frog, using a PC board throw bar and spiking them in place.  They've held up pretty well to date.

mvh/Jax, FL

dehusman wrote:

Once you learn how to build a turnout without jigs, it doesn't matter what rail you use, you can get the same results.  Code 40 or code 100. Dave H.

  Also, you aren't locked into a rigid frog geometry, so your trackwork can be laid with a much smoother flow - which greatly improves appearance and operations.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork)

tomikawaTT wrote:

Also, you aren't locked into a rigid frog geometry, so your trackwork can be laid with a much smoother flow - which greatly improves appearance and operations.

That is a hotly debated subject in some quarters.  People have gotten downright testy over the suggestion of building custom frog numbers, some people are adamant about using standard switch alignments.  I tend to use standard switch alignments and sizes, but customize them when the need arises.

Dave H.

dehusman wrote:

That is a hotly debated subject in some quarters.  People have gotten downright testy over the suggestion of building custom frog numbers, some people are adamant about using standard switch alignments.  I tend to use standard switch alignments and sizes, but customize them when the need arises. Dave H.

I can't see the point when the prototype seldom uses less than a #7 (and then only for spurs serving industries), and I'll seldom use more than something approximating a #6 (and then only when the main takes the curved route).  Now, if you are actually using nothing less than #7s, it makes sense to use the scaled templates.

just my thoughts

Fred W 

dehusman wrote:

tomikawaTT wrote: Also, you aren't locked into a rigid frog geometry, so your trackwork can be laid with a much smoother flow - which greatly improves appearance and operations. That is a hotly debated subject in some quarters.  People have gotten downright testy over the suggestion of building custom frog numbers, some people are adamant about using standard switch alignments.  I tend to use standard switch alignments and sizes, but customize them when the need arises. Dave H.

Anyone who wants to get adamant about any practice is welcome to follow their own standards while building their own layouts.  They are NOT welcome to question MY use of methods that don't produce the results called for by THEIR standards.  I have watched prototype tracklayers "customize" allegedly-standard parts (with a torch) to achieve the results the engineering department desired.  I have also admired the smooth flow of trackwork around some very busy passenger stations - probably laid with double-digit frogs and radii that are only a dream for modelers.  I am much more interested in reproducing the result than I am in copying the parts list.

If any visitor to the TTT wants to get adamant - my layout space has a door.  They will be advised to use it as an exit.  Since it's my layout, I abide by the golden rule - I've spent the gold, I make the rules.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - my way)