General Discussion (Model Railroader)

After the holidays I would like to add some centerlines and such to roads on my n scale layout.  I read about several possible ways of doing the markings including paint pens, colored pencils, decals, dry transfers, pin striping and others. 

I think I like to try the pin striping but not sure about what width to use for n scale - 1/64" seems to be the smallest.  Once put down, is it recommended that you "seal" it in any way?  If you were going to do solid line (no passing) and then continue to broken line (passing allowed) would you just lay solid and then cut out spaces? Any other helpful tips about putting down pin striping for road markings?

There are graphic arts tape lines available from graphic supply companies that might be better for this purpose than automotive pinstriping tape, depending on the surface of your roads. I have used them successfully in narrow widths without problems. They might be less likely to pull loose if left unsealed, although I've used them with and without sealer in graphic arts applications. Some of the graphic arts tapes have less of a shine than the automotive pinstriping tapes. They are fairly easy to apply (align with a straightedge where you can on flat, straight surfaces, and cut with an X-acto knife.

I would probably cut the shorter strips before putting on the roadway and just lay in place carefully. Just my preference.

To get good adhesion, burnish after positioning. This will help secure lines in place. Use a wax paper between line and burnisher.

The stripes on my roads are decal stripes. I painted the road a dark grey and finished it with Testors Glosscote from a rattle can. After the Glosscote was dry I decalled the stripes using white for the dashed line and duluxe gold for the yellow. Some decal set was used to set the decals then Testors Dullcote from a rattle can was used to dull the road and seal the decal stripes.

The roads were made from asphalt roofing back side up and fastened to the layout with contact cement and cut to the desired route. and finished as above. Gravel for the roadside was Woodland Scenics fine ballast in several shades of grey attached on the side of the road using the bonded ballast method.

Don't know how to put up photos here but E-mail me at Espee-sp@hotmail.com and I can send you some photos.

I used Chartpak graphics tape for the road lines on my N scale layout.  1/32" mat finish yellow for the center lines and 1/32" mat finish white for the edge lines.  1/32" is very close to the 6" size of the stripes.

Here is an early picture, before the edge lines were applied.

I apply a strip of tape down the center of the road, then apply a strip on either side.  This maintains proper spacing.  Once the outer strips are down, the center strip is pulled up.

A good source for the tape is at suppliesnet.com.  They seem to have all the sizes offered by Chartpak, down to 1/64".  Shipping costs seem reasonable.  It's almost impossible to find the right color, size and finish at any of the local art or drafting supply stores.

I just ordered two rolls each of white and yellow to complete my roads and to have some on hand if repairs are needed.  The whole order, including shipping cost was just over $15.

Each roll has 648" of tape.

I'm not sure where you'd find one nowadays (perhaps an automotive paint supply shop), but a pinstriping tool might be suitable for the job.  This is basically a reservoir (like on a fountain pen) that you fill with paint, with an applicator wheel in place of a nib.  Another option that might work is a ruling pen - set it to the proper width, fill it with paint, and make some stripes.  Both tools would likely require a guide, unless you've got a real steady hand, and it might be difficult to do the "broken" lines.

Wayne 

Matt,

The link to suppliesnet in your message doesn't work, but I was able to find them.  Noted that Chartpak has tape in a matte finish which I would think would be better than a gloss finish to start with.  The tape is cheap enough, but shipping of $17. was a bit much. 

In n scale 1/32" is about 5" while 1/64" is about 2-1/2".  I believe the roads in PA around 1960 in small towns had only white markings if even then. So I think I just need white.

Any problems in getting the tape to go around road curves?  And, did you seal it with anything?  Jim 

I couldn't figure out how to get it to work, I haven't had that problem in the past.

I placed my order with them last night when I responded with the information.  Four rolls of 1/32 tape was $9 and change with a $5 and a few cents shipping.  The total cost of the order was $15.13.  I setup a charge account on the Google checkout.  They handle the charge card stuff and pay Suppliesnet.  I was uneasy doing it that way, but it was a secured site.

I didn't seal the tape, but have burshed over it on my neighbor's layout.  You have to dry brush the paint on to keep it from seaping under the tape.

As for the curves, no problems there.  The tape is flexible and follows gentle curves.  I use a wallpaper edge roller to press the tape to the surface once it's down, but you have to keep careful not to press too hard.  Pressing hard causes the tape to ripple ahead of the roller.

I'm going to take a few pictures of the same area with the edge lines down to give you a better idea of the finished road.

Jim,

Here are three pictures of the main road and intersection on my layout.

This is the same scene as my previous post from a slightly different angle.  The White edge lines have been put down.

This is farther down the road.

Finally the intersection.

You're very welcome, Jim.

I can't stress enough, the importance of laying a center strip of tape for spacing the stripes.  I wasted alot of tape trying to get the two center stripes parallel. 

The 1/32 tape falls right in the middle of the spec for road stripes, 4" to 6" in width.  The edge striped can be narrower, but the 1/32 works good there too. 

Another comment on going around corners, don't try to turn it too tightly.  I had a problem on my neighbor's layout where the tape tried to lift because i pulled it too tightly when forming a curve.  If you intend to paint over it, as a method of sealing it, the curves are where it can become loose if the paint migrates into the adhesive.  I've never tried light coats with an airbrush, that might be a better method than brushing it on. 

I searched the web for a regular source for the Chartpak tape and the site I posted works well.  I can't tell you how much gas I've wasted running around St Louis trying to find it.

Good luck

Jim,

I model a very progressive area of northern Utah in 1964. (actually, I put the stripes down before I did any research)

I found this site with alot of good information.  Don't know if the link will work, but here it goes.

I copied it exactly as it appears in my bookmarks.

http://tcd.tamu.edu/documents/evolution.stand-alone.pdf

EDIT   I just checked, the link works.  Page 7 of the PDF file shows a map of the US with examples of the center markings as of 1961.