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Trackwork leading to 2 stall engine house

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  • Member since
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  • From: Winnipeg Canada
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Trackwork leading to 2 stall engine house
Posted by Blind Bruce on Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:45 PM

I'm assembling my Kanamodel 2 stall engine house and I wonder how I get the two tracks into it. How does one siding split into two? A short wye spreads the tracks too much without an "S" in one. A #6 turnout further away takes a lot of real estate. How is this usually done?

Thanks, 

73

Bruce in the Peg

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 03, 2007 5:06 PM

Any way you can get the engines to get into the stall the way you like it in the space you have.

My brother had one switch for two stalls on his engine house for years. We never worried about not being able to get to the engine house.

Another person I know of keeps his engine house with three stalls behind the yard you would hae to travel down the ladder and then over to the house.

I have 6 and that is too many, calls for a turntable. I COULD use two 3 way stubs if I can find some but... nah.

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Posted by dehusman on Sunday, June 03, 2007 5:12 PM

Normally there was a plan old switch, an yes it takes about a foot for the switch and foot to get them parallel.  If you wanted to use a wye you could do that but you would end up with a "s" in one or both leads.

Pick yer poison. 

The alternative is a one stall engine house.

The only time you put an engine in the engine house is if you want to maintain it or in winter if you want to keep it above freezing without having a fire in a steamer.  Otherwise it can sit outside

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up.

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Posted by ARTHILL on Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:00 PM
You could use a transfer table, but I never heard of one for a two stall house. I think a # 4 turnout is the most practical and prototypical solution.
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Posted by Dave-the-Train on Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:12 PM

If one road is maintenance and the other operating I would guess that the straight road in would be the maintenance road (someone correct me if I'm wrong).  This is so that any shove ins and pull outs are kept simple.  Two road houseswith a small allocation tended to be divided up this way I think.

If you have room for a turntable at least one road should be a straight run from the approach track into one road of the house.  This is for the same reason... a dead push/haul can be made straight over the table... this keeps life simple.

Don't forget that steam especially needed work to be done on locos outside the shed... like dropping the fire/ashes.  This could be done on the track between the TT/switch and the shed. if the weather won't be to bad you can also keep one or two locos in this outdoor space.

the switch number may be controlled by the wheelbase or whell arrangement of the locos you want to run.  anything above a 6 coupled steamer you may want to make some tests.

Big Smile [:D]

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Posted by Dave-the-Train on Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:12 PM

If one road is maintenance and the other operating I would guess that the straight road in would be the maintenance road (someone correct me if I'm wrong).  This is so that any shove ins and pull outs are kept simple.  Two road houseswith a small allocation tended to be divided up this way I think.

If you have room for a turntable at least one road should be a straight run from the approach track into one road of the house.  This is for the same reason... a dead push/haul can be made straight over the table... this keeps life simple.

Don't forget that steam especially needed work to be done on locos outside the shed... like dropping the fire/ashes.  This could be done on the track between the TT/switch and the shed. if the weather won't be to bad you can also keep one or two locos in this outdoor space.

the switch number may be controlled by the wheelbase or whell arrangement of the locos you want to run.  anything above a 6 coupled steamer you may want to make some tests.

Big Smile [:D]

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:31 PM

A number 4 turnout should do it. Don't be afraid to cut a little off the curved side of the turnout, to get the right track separation. And don't forget fueling facilities, nearby the engine house.

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:24 PM
I use a wye for mine.  I see nothing wrong with the S-curve.  The problem with S-curves comes from couplers or, on passenger trains, diaphrams between the cars.  Since an engine going into the engine house is not coupled to anything else, the only limitation would be the radius of the curves and whether the engine can take them.

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:31 PM
I have a two stall engine house myself. It has on trck going to it that splits at a #5 turnout. The two tracks then run parallel right to the engine house. I'm getting ready to install another engine house on another part of the layout and it will be handled the same way.

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Posted by Don Gibson on Monday, June 04, 2007 4:35 PM
 Blind Bruce wrote:

I'm assembling my Kanamodel 2 stall engine house and I wonder how I get the two tracks into it. How does one siding split into two? A short wye spreads the tracks too much without an "S" in one. A #6 turnout further away takes a lot of real estate. How is this usually done?

Thanks, 

(A good spot for a double xover?), but a single #4 (L or R) should do it - w/o 'S's.

I have a fixed base Engine fascility with a floor spacing of 13 1/8". A single #4 works. If your steamers are big, you'll have to go with a higher number, or leave them outside.

Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################

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