I sure appreciate all of the replies and advice. The more I read, the more I think that sanding is the answer to avoid gouging or melting the plastic rim.
I keep asking myself why I ever used CA glue to secure the approach tracks to the turntable. But, that was long ago. On my most recent layout, I nailed down the approach tracks just before they reached the rim of the turntable.
Rich
Alton Junction
Commercial CA remover will remove paint.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
For gouges, a good remedy is 3M Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, which comes in a tube. I knead the tube to get the liquid, which collects at the top of the tube, mixed with the body filler, then dip the chisel blade into the tube opening and pick-up a glob of the putty, then apply it where needed. I usually let it harden overnight, then if needed, apply more. I use a fairly fine sandpaper (1200 grit or a very fine sheet of aluminum-oxide paper to smooth it, then vacuum-up the resultant dust.
Wayne
I use propylene carbonate (CCS will sell you a liter for $30 plus $8.49 shipping). You can make a formula similar to commercial debonders by diluting this with alcohol (I see ethanol and isopropanol mentioned on the SDS) BUT you better test your plastic to see if it is 'alcohol-tolerant' first. As with anything involving solvents and plastic, be sure to test thoroughly in a non-visible location before applying to areas of importance, or make some test bonds on scrap for practice..
I'd use a very fine hypodermic-needle-style applicator to apply the 'debonder' to the actual CA deposit, allow the solvent to work, and then gently separate the softened CA using the chisel-blade-with-rounded-corners mentioned in a previous post. As with using a blade for glass cleaning: think of it as an alloy squeegee, not a cutting implement: let the liquid to the actual work; you're just separating the contaminant film from the surface.
tstage And, if you should get any gouges, Rich, you can always smooth it over with some thin CA...
And, if you should get any gouges, Rich, you can always smooth it over with some thin CA...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks, Frank. That is helpful info.
Much appreciated.
Rich,
A little tip I use to prevent gouging when using the xacto chizel blade is to use a fine mill file to round the corners of the blade surface before using. That's where most of the damage comes from.
CA debonder/ remover:
https://www.amazon.com/Starbond-Glue-Debonder-Remover-applicator/dp/B0797D6NZM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAz9ieBhCIARIsACB0oGL3c_YBLab0-2IjsBwKrHz1QN-889rSmeBU90tPAH8EZkOPeYXkD0caAl0GEALw_wcB&hvadid=616863297093
Take Care!
Frank
doctorwayne I forgot to mention another option, which is sandpaper...yeah, it will also remove paint (if the turntable pit has been painted), but it wouldn't be a big deal to touch-up the paint once the ca has been sanded away. Wayne
I forgot to mention another option, which is sandpaper...yeah, it will also remove paint (if the turntable pit has been painted), but it wouldn't be a big deal to touch-up the paint once the ca has been sanded away.
rrebell You can buy CA remover.
You can buy CA remover.
The IPA won't harm the plastic rim, Rich, but it could affect the painted surface. The acetone is a harsher degreaser and is more likely to affect the plastic.
Thanks for that reply, Wayne. I do have some chisel-type blades, so I will give that suggestion a try. Yes, scratches and gouges are my main concern. That's why I am wondering about acetone or isopropyl alcohol, but my fear with that apporach is melting or softening the plastic.
My use of ca is usually on my work desk, which has a glass top, and I often squeeze ca onto the glass, then use the pointy-end of an X-Acto to apply it wherever needed....usually to secure small details to items that I'm building, which don't respond to other types of glue.
Every once in a while, I'll get out one of my X-Acto handles, and install a chisel-type blade, which makes it a useful tool for removing excess or spilled ca from both the glass and any excess ca that I might have deposited when installing those little details.
If you want to limit the damage to the plastic turntable pit, you can use the bevelled side of the blade to scrape away the excess ca (making sure to keep the X-Acto handle very close to the surface.If you prefer to use the chisel-type blade with the bevelled edge up, keep the handle as close as possible to the surface, in order to prevent the blade from digging into the plastic.Another option is to use the same tool with the handle vertical and with the fingers of your free hand grasping the blade to regulate both the downward pressure, and the speed of movement, which should help to prevent gouges.
tstage Rich, Is the CA thick or thin? I would carefully use a sharp #17 X-acto blade to gently get underneath the CA and pop it up. Acetone will probably mar and/or discolor the plastic rim. Tom
Is the CA thick or thin? I would carefully use a sharp #17 X-acto blade to gently get underneath the CA and pop it up. Acetone will probably mar and/or discolor the plastic rim.
Is the CA thick or thin? I would carefully use a sharp #17 X-acto blade to gently get underneath the CA and pop it up. Acetone will likely mar and/or discolor the plastic rim.
I have a Walthers Cornerstone turntable on which I have used CA glue to hold down rails on the rim of the turntable. Over time, I have a number of spots where the glue remains after removing the rails from the rim.
What is the safest solution to use to remove the CA glue without damaging the plastic turntable rim?
I have read differing opinions on using acetone or isopropyl alcohol as well as some other products. What do you use to remove CA glue from plastic?