Hello Dave,
OK, I must say that sometimes the styrene/plastic will have a different 'softness' from other plastics and I will need to change tooth count for a nicer/easier cut.
Probably why most of us have 3 or 4 or more saws with a different tooth count.
I think I can say that I never much used a handle on a razor saw, most of my saws have a screw on wire nut to fit the saw's metal handle stub.
Bob, PC101
PC101A razor saw with the most teeth per inch would be my first choice also.
Hi PC101,
I find that the very fine toothed blades tend to bind when cutting styrene. That's why I prefer my 32 tpi saw with the deeper blade.
I can never seem to keep the saw in the kerf so I always plan on dressing the cut with fine sandpaper on a sheet of glass. That compensates for my sloppy saw work!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
A razor saw with the most teeth per inch would be my first choice also.
Some time in the future you may want to cut a flat piece of styrene, if you decide to use a knife (I would not), be careful, the sharp blade can run off line (even with a metal straight edge) and you could need a band-aid and a new piece of styrene. When I use a knife blade to cut flat styrene I do not use the sharp edge but rather the back edge of a de pointed #11 blade. As you lightly drag the back edge a pigtail/sliver of plastic will be removed. Keep drawing the back edge along the cut line till through the sheet of plastic. This back edge of the blade way removes the plastic, the sharp edge of the blade way pushes the plastic away and up and leaves a 'v' groove to be dressed up. I also use dental picks to scrib/cut flat styrene, works like a charm.
Oh and watch the razor saw you get, some are push cut blades (cuts pushing forward) and some are pull cut blades (cuts pulling back).
MisterBeasleyInvest in a razor saw. They're only a few dollars at places like Michaels.
Good advice. Just don't buy one with a plastic handle/blade holder. Eventually the handle will break.
You might consider buying one with a deeper blade. That will give you more cutting depth if your dock is already assembled.
The tpi (teeth per inch) count can vary. 32 tpi will be faster but the cut might require some sanding. 52 tpi will give you a very fine cut but it will be slower.
Standard blade, 42 or 52 tpi:
https://www.walthers.com/razor-saw-42-tpi
Deeper blade, 32 tpi:
https://www.walthers.com/universal-razor-saw-32-tpi
Invest in a razor saw. They're only a few dollars at places like Michaels.
You can cut plastic sheet with a utility knife and a straightedge, but the razor saw will not cause cracking and is easier to control.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Is this kit already assembled, or are you going to be doing the cutting while it is still in pieces? Either way styrene plastic cuts well and rarely cracks unless you introduce stresses into the process, with uneven support of the part for example. Of course you want to put the cut in exactly the right place because there may be no second chance. For that reason you may want to use the old Art Curren kitbasher's trick: Xerox the deck pieces and use that paper copy to decide where the cut goes
If already assembled, assuming you know exactly where the cut should go, I think I'd use a razor saw perhaps after a preliminary very light (and straight) cut with a sharp bladed knife to create a groove as a guide. Let the saw blade do the work and don't press.
If still in pieces I'd think ordinary score and snap should work just fine without cracking, but again use a fresh blade and I'd put the cut line a bit away from the 'final' line, score and snap and then carefully file down to the final line. Several light repetitive cuts with the blade rather than a 'go for broke" once-and-done should do the trick.
Dave Nelson
The first thing is to mark where the angled cut is. Then mark a cut line that should be a little ahead of the final mark. This is called cutting proud of the line and is a very common woodworker thing. Then sand to the final cut mark. This helps with cutting scratchbuilding and kits. Any slip is not in the final finished piece. You can carefully use a jewels coping saw, a razor saw or knife. Just be ware a knife means many light passes. Take your time go slow and think of each step to minimize any issues from rushing
A new blade helps a lot. Good light and a good flat work surface.
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
The least expensive approach: A razor saw and a metal rule...
X-acto makes them in different sizes & heights. It will also give you the most control when cutting.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have a walthers HO pier kit that I need to cut at an angle to fit on my layout. What's the best way to cut one of these without cracking the plastic?