For replacing layout switches & track sections I use diamond cutting wheels or titanium wheels in different diameters (see Micro Mark's online catalog) otherwise a Zuron cutting tool for out of box track, regaredless always use saftey glasses. Bayway Teminal NJ
I don't have any rail nippers, but in the past, have used razor saws and fine-toothed hacksaws for cutting rail.My preferance is for cutting disks in a rotary tool. I do wonder, though, why some modellers complain about the angled cut that most such tools create...surely you can make a matching cut if you're adding more track onto it. If the cut was merely to create a gap to isolate a segment of track, it wouldn't be difficult to insert a piece of plastic into an angled cut, then trim-off (or file-off) the excess.
When I was laying track on the partial upper level of my layout, I ran out of rail joiners, but luckily, there was a hobby shop only 5 minutes away (now long-gone). The only rail joiners they had, though, were for code 55 track.
I bought them anyway, and used the cut-off disc to thin the bottom flange at the ends of the rail, then again using the cut-off disc to narrow the remaining sides of the bottom flange, so that the small joiners could fit. Like the regular rail joiners, they were all soldered in place, and in many instances, after the rails had been painted, the smaller joiners have become invisible.I still have some industrial trackage to add, and will be using code 70 rail and those tiny code 55 joiners...wish I had been aware of them when I started my current layout.
Wayne
rrebell A regular cut-off disk is fine for rail cutting on already sodered track but use rail cutters for the before stuff. With each, it is best to wear full goggles as things can get past regular safety glasses but they can be cheap ones for what we cut.
A regular cut-off disk is fine for rail cutting on already sodered track but use rail cutters for the before stuff. With each, it is best to wear full goggles as things can get past regular safety glasses but they can be cheap ones for what we cut.
I learned the hard way when cutting track with a Dremel and cutoff disks. Not only do I use safety goggles, I now use a face shield after a cutoff disk shattered and a piece hit me in the neck.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Xuron rail nippers and a fine file are my go to flex track cutters. I too have a Dremel, have had it for years, and never could get a square cut on the rails using the Dremel, and filing those cuts is a royal pain.
I have also had discs shatter. When you get used to them, the Zuron can give a nearly perfect cut.
gmpullman richhotrain The Xuron flush rail cutters work perfectly fine without all of the risks and dangers of using a Dremel for this purpose. It is nearly impossible to cut insulating gaps in already-laid track using wedge-shaped flush cutters.
richhotrain The Xuron flush rail cutters work perfectly fine without all of the risks and dangers of using a Dremel for this purpose.
It is nearly impossible to cut insulating gaps in already-laid track using wedge-shaped flush cutters.
Rich
Alton Junction
Here ya go.
The attachment is quite inexpensive and has a longer Dremel fit list on site.
TF
P.S. Notice he doesn't have any leather gloves on? Those can be a good idea, especially with the wheel in line with the fingers. Also two hands for extra stability and control is a good idea with any high RPM tool. I wonder if he's wearing his face shield though
For the cutout wheel you want to use the thinest available, but yes those are more likely to shatter. The shatering happenes mainly by putting too much presure on the sides when cutting. Wgat we really need is a right angle dremel for this operation but I don't know of one.
Agreed. Besides tight places like microsurgery on turnouts, sometimes you have the clearance to use a rail jig and fine toothed razor saw but sometimes not. It is those times when obstructions are in the way, a cut off wheel is the only choice as well, unless you want to start dismantling that part of your layout to make clearance.
richhotrainThe Xuron flush rail cutters work perfectly fine without all of the risks and dangers of using a Dremel for this purpose.
It is nearly impossible to cut insulating gaps in already-laid track using wedge-shaped flush cutters. Especially back when I had many power-routing turnouts I prefered to cut insulating gaps then fill the gap as Dr. Wayne illustrates above.
Yes, I use the Xuron cutters and a good quality mill file for cleanup when cutting lengths of rail while laying track but once the "waste" side is fixed in place it will rip out of the tie strip if attempting to use flush cutting nippers.
Using a cutoff wheel is just a matter of respecting the tool and assuring no binding takes place. I never had a problem with shattered discs.
Others may have different experiences.
Cheers, Ed
I own a Dremel but I have never used it to cut rail and I never will. The Xuron flush rail cutters work perfectly fine without all of the risks and dangers of using a Dremel for this purpose.
riogrande5761That link is a seller who does not ship to the US when I checked it out.
Yhere's a bunch on Amazon that will, though:
https://a.co/d/flLBTVS
https://a.co/d/aaOdrK8
I don't have any personal experience with these but I do use several sizes of diamond chain saw sharpening bits. Much more durable than the carborundum stone bits.
Like Dr. Wayne, I use a flex shaft to get closer to a 90° angle to the rail and make a slow cut with the .025 thick, emery-resin thin disk. I rarely use the reinforced disks unless I'm cutting U bolts off an exhaust pipe.
Dremel by Edmund, on Flickr
Good Luck, Ed
hon30critter If you want to eliminate the risk of having the cutting discs shatter, I recommend diamond grit steel blades as an alternative. I bought a set like these several years ago and I have only worn one blade out to date. The set comes with a variety of blade sizes. If you were to use the largest diameter blade to cut track, it would eliminate the problem with the smaller discs cutting the rail at an angle: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/384292945011?hash=item5979a4fc73:g:w-UAAOSwbWdg-~jN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Pv9y1XHOp%2FvZZYPDW3S%2Fk7t0TA4L11avm7XZSqizl52Tgc7eaBJ3muVBFupXeU9PtXhbf8TBeuqeVQKIXTXK2f71YncAaYOiJC1F4kkswwAQivuU9ISjOvgd7pQ2PjTHCuUk4ig6wtmdeiwTEWrJsU6%2BmnSqfBgBfG2ivjd4XqRzXqJ8JRI3%2B1tvXAPExiN9WINhc4gPK6C3nsgkpIb%2F1FiQGW7kCPsaF%2BAsrIQHsO6yl5rYZBOhXZ2NARdbr51rLIG9YCSTLzbYoTBO%2FoAb9DY2HT2kA4pop2aSLQH7iUUG%2FWqYLAuewSChI3Is4A0SA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3NO1-I1h Cheers!! Dave
If you want to eliminate the risk of having the cutting discs shatter, I recommend diamond grit steel blades as an alternative. I bought a set like these several years ago and I have only worn one blade out to date. The set comes with a variety of blade sizes. If you were to use the largest diameter blade to cut track, it would eliminate the problem with the smaller discs cutting the rail at an angle:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/384292945011?hash=item5979a4fc73:g:w-UAAOSwbWdg-~jN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Pv9y1XHOp%2FvZZYPDW3S%2Fk7t0TA4L11avm7XZSqizl52Tgc7eaBJ3muVBFupXeU9PtXhbf8TBeuqeVQKIXTXK2f71YncAaYOiJC1F4kkswwAQivuU9ISjOvgd7pQ2PjTHCuUk4ig6wtmdeiwTEWrJsU6%2BmnSqfBgBfG2ivjd4XqRzXqJ8JRI3%2B1tvXAPExiN9WINhc4gPK6C3nsgkpIb%2F1FiQGW7kCPsaF%2BAsrIQHsO6yl5rYZBOhXZ2NARdbr51rLIG9YCSTLzbYoTBO%2FoAb9DY2HT2kA4pop2aSLQH7iUUG%2FWqYLAuewSChI3Is4A0SA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3NO1-I1h
Cheers!!
Dave
That link is a seller who does not ship to the US when I checked it out.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have a very basic older Dremel tool, but seldom use it. A razor saw, or a fine-toothed hacksaw works fairly well for cutting track, but the easiest to use is my electric Jobmate tool with a 3' flex shaft. It will work with various sizes of cut-off discs. While I do occasionally break one, I more often use them carefully, so that as they wear-down, they're very useful for working in tight places...
...here's a rail that's been cut, with a piece of plastic inserted to isolate a section of track...
I forgot to mention that I use a coping saw to cut gaps in turnout rails when I am adding feeders etc. It won't work on installed turnouts but it does an excellent job when the turnout can be supported in a vise.
That brings up another issue. If you are planning on using the diamond grit cut off blades, the turnout has to be secured firmly in place, and I use two hands on the Dremel. Otherwise, as was mentioned by another poster, the blades can grab the rails. I also use very low speeds so that the torque is at a minimum.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Made clickable.
https://www.zonatool.net/cat/jewelers-saw-jeweler-saws/
zstripeOld school........use two (2) disc's together, not one. This has been mentioned many times over the yrs. Take Care! Frank
Howdy Frank! Good to see you.
I've used all the above methods, Dremel, nippers, razor saw, and a regular hack saw.
I think with all of the methods, some tweaking of the cut might be needed, to finish it up.
Mike.
My You Tube
Excellent discussion! Very informative! I have changed the title to reflect the range of tools discussed in the thread.
At the risk of appearing indecisive, I am going to buy one of each! I already have the dremel + flex shaft attachment. I received good recommendations on cutting wheels (wide diameter, reinforced, diamond coated, and more) plus using to cut soldered and fastened track.
I'll purchase the inexpensive Harbor Freight flush cutter recommended by RR_Mel as being equal to Xuron flush cutters. May decide to upgrade to Xuron down the road.
Hat tip to TF for first mentioning razor saws! PC101 gave a nice tutorial on cutting with a razor saw. I will buy a pull razor saw due to the more precise cut. A jeweler's saw is intriguing and also under consideration. Nice suggestion and discussion by jpg!
So many replied with very useful advice! Most grateful my RR friends! Have an awesome day!
A regular cut off disk is fine for rail cutting on already sodered track but use rail cutters for the before stuff. With each it is best to wear full goggles as things can get past regular safty glasses but they can be the cheap ones for what we cut.
IDRick zstripe Old school........use two (2) disc's together, not one. This has been mentioned many times over the yrs. Take Care! Frank LOL, I'm definitely old enough to qualify as old school, I'll give it a try! Doubling up makes sense! Rick
zstripe Old school........use two (2) disc's together, not one. This has been mentioned many times over the yrs. Take Care! Frank
Old school........use two (2) disc's together, not one. This has been mentioned many times over the yrs.
Take Care!
Frank
LOL, I'm definitely old enough to qualify as old school, I'll give it a try! Doubling up makes sense!
Rick
FDR was in His first term when I was born.
They also must have some real poor excuses for cut-off disc's today for dremels and die grinders because in all the years of My using them, I never experienced what people all calling shattering in this thread. I've rebuilt full size trucks/autos/classics and started in HO in 1950 so I believe I have the qualifications but I don't consider Myself an expert like everyone and their brother does now a days.lol
One of My classic's:
1949 Ford restored by Me, including drive train.
I build turnouts using the fast tracks tools and jigs, and that involves cutting a good bit of rail. For cutting bare rail to length I use the zuron rail cutters. I have two pairs, one is a knock off, and the knock off does a fine job.
It will also be ok for cutting flex track, it will be able to cut through the tie webbing without problems.
Building a turnout also requires you to cut electrical gaps around the frog in a finished turnout. The nippers are no good for that, nor would they be any good for cutting gaps in already-laid flex track. People often use a dremel for that, but I don't.
Having gone to all the effort to build a great looking turnout, I want the gaps I have to cut for electrical reasons to be as small and invisible as possible. So I use a zona jewelers saw. It would also be fine for cutting gaps in already-laid flex track as long as the scenery isn't higher than the track.
I have the best results with the jewelers saw when I put the blade in the saw so that it cuts on the pull stroke, YMMV.
Here's a link to the zona saws. The $19 3" depth one should be fine, though mine is a 5" one because I didn't know I had a cheaper option.
A jewelers saw will let you cut down through the rail without cutting the plastic tie web, if you desire. It would take a very careful touch with a dremel to do that. It only takes about 15 seconds to cut through a rail with the zona saw.
The kerf will be about half of what you can achieve with a dremel, and much less likely too be accidentally at an odd angle.
The blades do break, you still need eye protection, but so far they've only broken on me into two pieces, and I've only ever had one end go flying, so one projectile. The saws are designed to adjust to shorter blades, when one breaks you just use the longer half until that breaks.
I will probably get one of the razor saws at some point too.
CGW103 do not force the wheel, in other words let the wheel do the work. If you force it the disk will expolde you do not want that.
do not force the wheel, in other words let the wheel do the work. If you force it the disk will expolde you do not want that.
Or if you are not holding the rail being cut securely with your left hand/fingers or a block of wood there is a chance if the tool is in your right hand the rotating wheel will rip the rail right out of those little plastic 'spikes' and send it right towards your chest/neck/face.
Humm, now 'Add a quote to your Post' works and the page looks just like it did earlier.
PC101
I can not Quote your post about my track cutting jig but here is a better picture of it. It was made when I used 'push cut' blades (I'm not sure when 'pull cut' blades came about but I just bought the two Excel 'pull cut' ones at the TCA show in October). Anyway it has a fence to hold the track straight as I cut with a 'push cut' blade and a front brace to hold the jig up against benchwork or a table or whatever. Now it may look like I will need to redesign the jig for the 'pull cut' blades. Man this Hobby is never ending.
NOW WHAT DID OUR HOSTS DO? Something just changed with the 'Add Quote to your Post' and the page is set up different. I can not post a Quote. Even though it ask to "Add Quote to your Post" and you click on it and nothing happens.
Yes TF you get the razor saw credit. I just added pictures.
Good morning
IDRick PC101, I was thinking someone would recommend a razor saw. Nice to see a recommendation!
PC101, I was thinking someone would recommend a razor saw. Nice to see a recommendation!
Track fiddler I do remember using a jig to stabilize the rails and a fine toothed razor saw to cut the rails back in the day. May have took a bit longer but it worked good, especially where bridge tracks came into play.
I do remember using a jig to stabilize the rails and a fine toothed razor saw to cut the rails back in the day. May have took a bit longer but it worked good, especially where bridge tracks came into play.
IDRick RR_Mel had good luck with Xuron cutters but suggested Harbor Freight flush cutters work as well at a much lower cost. They need to be replaced more frequently. He linked this one in Aug 2021. PC101, I was thinking someone would recommend a razor saw. Nice to see a recommendation! Which one do you use? MR recommended these razor saws in a 2014 article: K & S (295 razor saw), Mascot (102 razor saw), 295 razor saw, Xacto (239 fine razor saw + 75330 miter box. and Zona (35550 razor saw, 42 TPI). I like razor saws for preparing new track before initial installation. Not as handy if making cuts on fastened track (IMO, I could be wrong, please correct if I am mistaken as I do not have first hand experience).
RR_Mel had good luck with Xuron cutters but suggested Harbor Freight flush cutters work as well at a much lower cost. They need to be replaced more frequently. He linked this one in Aug 2021.
PC101, I was thinking someone would recommend a razor saw. Nice to see a recommendation! Which one do you use? MR recommended these razor saws in a 2014 article: K & S (295 razor saw), Mascot (102 razor saw), 295 razor saw, Xacto (239 fine razor saw + 75330 miter box. and Zona (35550 razor saw, 42 TPI). I like razor saws for preparing new track before initial installation. Not as handy if making cuts on fastened track (IMO, I could be wrong, please correct if I am mistaken as I do not have first hand experience).
Since you are the OP I'll put this in here on Razor saws.
I need to resize pictures then go to my picture host and and I'll be right back.
I'm back, now I need to add the words.
1st. picture is my homemade track cutting jig for unlaid track.
It was built when I used 'push cut blades'.
2nd. picture shows Xacto 'push cut' fine tooth blades with the blue and red paint markings and Excel 'pull cut' #30409 and #30440 fine tooth blades.
The lower blade in the picture with no handle stub is whats left of a normal blade. The shorten/customized blade with the handle stub (not shown, I can not find it at this moment) is used to cut laided track that has something (building, parallel track, land form) to close to the rails to be cut with a full length blade.
Yes, for me wire nuts work just fine for handles.
3rd picture shows what I use to cut laided track for (blocks, gaps, adding sidings or crossovers). I 'super glue' the rails to the ties then cut both rails on a tie, (making sure there is that plastic piece under one rail that connects the ties) but do not cut through the tie. After the rails are cut I fill in the cut with plastic and CA glue. Then dress up the rail and plastic filler.