gmpullman Is this the article? https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/basics_of_airbrushing.pdf Good Luck, Ed
Is this the article?
https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
Good Luck, Ed
Rich
Alton Junction
Ok, when you have a chance send me a PM with your email address and I'll send the article to you that way
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
AntonioFP45 Hi Rich, I hope that I'm not violating any rules and that this pdf link works: AIRBRUSHING - basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
Hi Rich,
I hope that I'm not violating any rules and that this pdf link works:
AIRBRUSHING - basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
snjroy Hi there. I'm sure you will be pleased with your airbrush. I use mine all the time, for rolling stock, buildings, etc. I've been using my single-action Badger for over 20 years. I also have a dual action, but I rarely use it. Playing with the pressure level and the nozzle will allow you to do a lot of things. An oil-free compressor can be found at low cost at just about at any good hardware store. The type of paint you use will actually impact the other purchases. Apart from primers (I use rattle can auto primers), I strictly use acrylic paints. No harmful solvents, so no gloves and no complicated paint booth. I still wear a mask - non-toxic does not mean no harm. Painting acrylics is a bit more tricky, but the finish is quite good if you go with good quality paint. Enjoy! Simon
Hi there. I'm sure you will be pleased with your airbrush. I use mine all the time, for rolling stock, buildings, etc. I've been using my single-action Badger for over 20 years. I also have a dual action, but I rarely use it. Playing with the pressure level and the nozzle will allow you to do a lot of things.
An oil-free compressor can be found at low cost at just about at any good hardware store. The type of paint you use will actually impact the other purchases. Apart from primers (I use rattle can auto primers), I strictly use acrylic paints. No harmful solvents, so no gloves and no complicated paint booth. I still wear a mask - non-toxic does not mean no harm. Painting acrylics is a bit more tricky, but the finish is quite good if you go with good quality paint.
Enjoy!
Simon
AntonioFP45 Rich, respectfully, please don't overthink it (like I did when starting out). Start with the basic steps.
Rich, respectfully, please don't overthink it (like I did when starting out).
Start with the basic steps.
But only as it relates to the exhaust fan.
I started that other thread on the spray booth because I was thoroughly confused about what type of exhaust fan to use. But, I think that I now have that figured out.
All of the information in your latest reply is very useful and very much appreciated. Your continuing help and advice have really steered me in the right direction. Thanks so much.
1. Air compressor. There are a wide variety available in varying price ranges and quality grades. Rather than a "hobby compresor" I purchased a general purpose Bostitch 3-gallon "pancake" unit from Lowes. I think they sell in the $150-$165 range today. The noise level, for me, is not bad but you'd have to judge for yourself. Some businesses will demo units for customers. Here's a YouTube review. This is a 6-gallon Bostitch pancake unit but its motor is identical to the one used on the 3-gallon version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd88jjtUbGs
If you prefer a more quiet unit, The "California Air Tools" hobby compressor 2010A is a very nice compressor, although pricier at the $220-$240 range. Currently $208 on Amazon.
2. Airbrush: HUGE variety on the market. I own 5. Yet, my constant "go to" is my Paasche' VL. To me it's an all-around workhorse like an EMD GP38-2. As long as it's cleaned, it will work through A LOT of paint tasks before the need to replace any seals arises. My first Paasche' lasted 2 decades and I retired it only after having damaged it by dropping it on a concrete surface..........for the 3rd time! (butter fingers). Since then I make sure that my hands are dry or gloved when spraying. The single action unit you mentioned is a good choice. Like a car, choose one that you think you'll be comfortable with.
3. Nitrile or latex disposable gloves - (Amazon, Harbor Freight, Norther Tool) and should last you a long while. To me, the thicker versions are overpriced. Imho, 4 mil thickness works ($7.99 at Amazon) well. A box of 100, size Large should last you quite a while.
4. Cleaning Brushes - Currently $2 at Harbor Freight. Very handy set with multiple sized on a ring.
5. Measuring cups - Generally inexpensive. I use the disposable 1 ounce plastic measuring cops available from Hobbytown, Amazon, etc. 1 pack of 50 plastic cups sells for $8 at Amazon. Sometimes even cheaper when they go on sale. My current pack is 4 years old. Still have a few left.
6. Airbrush cleaning pot. A good tool to have. However, I've never owned one as I normally flush my airbrush out with lacquer thinner then wipe my needle and fluid tip with a cloth wet with lacquer thinner or alcohol.
Starting out, I'd spend 4 to 5 minutes cleaning out my airbrush. After several paint jobs, I could flush and wipe my airbrush, needle, tip, and jar / cup properly in just over 1 minute! Becomes a normal routine.
I acquired my equipment little by little while still having some rattle cans in my stock. I was hesitant when I took this road until I realized that the cost of the compressor and airbrush kit was still cheaper than the price of one Broadway Limited HO locomotive.
(I'd enjoy a BLI C&O Greenbriar, but $500+ is too big of a "wallop" for my strained "wallet").
I was watching a video this morning on airbrushing for beginners, and I was amazed at the number and type of painting accessories for the airbrush. Here is a list of the painting accessories that were discussed in the video:
~ Paint Thinner
~ Nitrile Gloves
~ Glass Measuring Cups
~ Empty Glass Jars
~ Transfer Pipettes
~ Airbrush Cleaning Pot
~ Cotton Swabs
~ Nylon Brushes
This is going to get expensive, not only the airbrush, compressor, exhaust fan and respirator, but also all of these accessories. But, what can you do if you want to spray passenger cars using an airbrush.
AntonioFP45 Don't be nervous regarding the windows. For example, if you currently own Walthers older run passenger cars (early 2000's), Walthers Proto passenger cars, and the old Rivarossi Budd passenger cars, you'll notice that the narrow window strips fit "snuggly" into the window openings and are nearly flush with the surface of the window row. Walthers Mainline passenger car windows, on the other hand are styled very similarly to the 1980's era ConCor 85ft passenger cars. Each car as two, long transparent plastic strips hanging down from the roof, one on each side. With the roof on the car, the clear strips sit behind the window openings but are not flush with the window opening's surface. Not a big deal. Since they are glued to the roof, it's simple to apply long strips of masking tape to the clear "window" strips and apply primer and/or paint to your roof. One nice bonus is that Super Clean does not damage the window strips while the roof is soaking in the solution.
Don't be nervous regarding the windows.
For example, if you currently own Walthers older run passenger cars (early 2000's), Walthers Proto passenger cars, and the old Rivarossi Budd passenger cars, you'll notice that the narrow window strips fit "snuggly" into the window openings and are nearly flush with the surface of the window row.
Walthers Mainline passenger car windows, on the other hand are styled very similarly to the 1980's era ConCor 85ft passenger cars. Each car as two, long transparent plastic strips hanging down from the roof, one on each side. With the roof on the car, the clear strips sit behind the window openings but are not flush with the window opening's surface.
Not a big deal. Since they are glued to the roof, it's simple to apply long strips of masking tape to the clear "window" strips and apply primer and/or paint to your roof. One nice bonus is that Super Clean does not damage the window strips while the roof is soaking in the solution.
Next up, I will order an airbrush, compressor and respirator. I plan to build my own spray booth.
Rich,
Wow, a lot of good input on this thread!
Sorry for the blurriness: Here is a photo of the Mainline Budd I was working on. You can see the roof section with the green tinted "window" glazing attached. Very simple, although I prefer flush fitting windows.
BTW: I had tried the 91% alcohol at this stage and it did not work, which is why I switched over to Super Clean.
AntonioFP45 Rich, In case it is helpful, here is a thread i posted when I purchased a Mainline Budd some years back. On it I comment on how I removed the roof. https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/249188/3028855.aspx
In case it is helpful, here is a thread i posted when I purchased a Mainline Budd some years back. On it I comment on how I removed the roof.
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/249188/3028855.aspx
No, not really, but we shall soon see.
Prime, even if I don't strip the original factory paint?
richhotrainI still cannot decide whether to prime before applying the actual paint coat.
OK well at least that one is easy. Yes, you should always put down a primer coat first...and always wash what you're going to paint before primering it. Just warm water and a little 'soft soap', then rinse completely. Wait until fully dry before painting.
AntonioFP45 The roofs would be a cake walk since they are removable. Mask off the one-piece window (glazing sides) and paint the roofs separately.
The roofs would be a cake walk since they are removable. Mask off the one-piece window (glazing sides) and paint the roofs separately.
Here is my latest thinking on the repaint situation.
I have all but decided to buy an airbrush. I am considering the Badger 250, a single action, external mix, bottom feed airbrush.
If I do buy an airbrush, I think that the way to go is with a compressor rather than rattle cans of paint. I am considering the Badger Model 18-10 or 18-12 based upon reviews and price.
I cannot decide what to do about a spray booth. My inclination is to forego one, at least initially, in favor of a cardboard box in a well ventilated area such as my garage.
To strip or not to strip? I cannot decide. Good arguments have been made for both ways. I need more input.
I am getting favorable recommendations on paint, and I am inclined to go with Scalecoat II based upon those recommendations.
I am looking for the best masking tape and the proper techniques in applying it. Antonio mentions Tamiya or 3M 233+ series tape. Any others?
I still cannot decide whether to prime before applying the actual paint coat.
So, that is where I am at as we speak.
Wayne, an interesting tale you tell. Thanks for sharing. I have never given any thought to airbrushing techniques, but the dots approach is very intriguing.
richhotrain So, fellow model railroaders, tell me about your preferred airbrush, along with any comments about how best to use it. Rich
So, fellow model railroaders, tell me about your preferred airbrush, along with any comments about how best to use it.
I had absolutely no idea of why I would want an airbrush, or even know how to use one, but at the time it was suggested, I was painting Athearn Blue Box Geeps for a now-long-gone hobbyshop.The issue with them was that the two-colour paint scheme required painting both colours, in-sequence, twice.By the time I had finished building (the diesels had to be modified to represent the prototype) and painting 66 TH&B diesels (geeps & switchers), I was talked into buying (at a reduced price) my first airbrush.
It came with a manual, and some very useful advise on how to get comfortable using something which I had never used (the manual didn't phrase it in that manner), but the results did make me a lot more comfortable using it and it didn't take long to become proficient using it.
The first lesson was to use a pencil, on paper or cardboard (I opted for a cardboard box) to draw a grid of half-inch squares, then hold the airbrush 1/2" from the cardboard to create dots where the drawn lines intersected, using either india ink or diluted water-colour paints. The point was to make each dot as small as possible.
Once you are able to place the dots accurately, you can try creating larger dots by allowing more colour to flow through the airbrush and at the same time, increasing the distance between the airbrush and the cardboard. I did well on the first part, but after only a couple of tries, I skipped making the bigger dots because it was too easy.I actually skipped much of the practice lessons, but the exercise which interested me most was to create the smallest dots possible, then connect them as neatly and as straight as possible.
Without using a pencilled grid, I made a grid of tiny dots, then connected them all with lines so straight and so thin that a viewer would think them to have been done using a straight edge and a pen.I doubt that nowadays I could repeat that feat...but I wish now that I had saved that piece of cardboard.
Anyway, that's about all of the exercises that I bothered with, as I was eager to get going with painting train stuff with an airbrush.
My airbrush is a dual-action Paasche, and if you choose that one, you will likely also get the booklet with the 22 airbrush lessons for beginners, which includes a small airbrushed black & white pin-up picture, by Alberto Vargas.
His skills would make me look like a dunce, but mine are good enough for the things that I'm intertested in painting.
I can't offer much in the way of choices for a compressor...I started with a very old one-lunger with a refrigerator motor providing the oomph.
When my father passed-away many years ago, I inheirited his homemade screw-type compressor, also powered by a refrigerator motor. Because the air is compressed by the interaction of two oil-encased screws, meshing together, there is no pulsation in the delivery of air to the airbrush (and surprisingly, no oil ever enters the airhose).
Here's a photo of the old compressor...
...and the one I'm using nowadays...
Wayne
I have been doing some research today on the whole issue as well as re-reading all of the posts on this thread and some personal emails that I have received. Here is a summary of my questions and conclusions at this point:
1. Airbrush vs. Rattle Can. I started out thinking that the rattle can was the way to go for me. But, the responses have convinced me that an airbrush is the way to go.
2. Airbrush Selection. There are lots of choices in terms of not only brands but also different types of airbrushes from these manufacturers. Badger, Paasch and Iwata seem to be the most popular brands.
3. Types of Airbrush. There are two types of airbrush: single action and double action. I am leaning toward the single-action as easier to use for a novice like me and less expensive.
4. Compressor vs. Propellant Can. I actually own a Badger Propellant Can that my LHS guys persuaded me to buy nearly 20 years ago. As I recall, they also sold me an airbrush, but for the life of me I have no idea where it might be, whether I sold it years ago on eBay, or never really bought one. I never used the Badger Propellant Can of spray, and I wonder if it even would still work as intended. I read a blog today where a guy who sprays model racing cars swears by it. I am not anxious to sink a lot of money into a compressor, but some seem reasonably priced.
5. Moisture Trap. Some airbrushes come with a moisture trap, and the literature says that you can make your own. Do I need such a device for this purpose?
6. Spray Booth. Do I really need one, and if so, how elaborate? One buddy who emailed me said to just use a cardboard box in a well ventilated area.
7. Handle. A good piece of advice is to get some type of "handle" to hold a rotate the item to be sprayed. One recommendation is the handle offered by GB Engineering. Another recommendation is just to build one out of wood.
8. Stripping. I am getting mixed suggestions here. To strip or not to strip? The only suggestion so far, and it sounds good to me, is Super Clean as a stripper.
9. Type of Paint. I need some help here. A guy whom I greatly respect says Scalecoat, look no further.
10. Thinner. It seems that this is necessary to be added to the paint.
11. Masking Tape. The suggestions so far are Tamiya or 3M 233+ series tape.
Any and all comments, suggestions, recommendations, criticisms will be welcomed.
MisterBeasley I don't repaint a lot of models, but I agree wit Stix that if you have clean, uniformly painted undecorated models, just painting over them should be fine. It's a smooth, even undercoat which should not show any bleed-through of any previous pattern. On the other hand, if you decide to strip the older paint, then it's on you to do a perfect stripping job or risk seeing any errors through your finished coat.
I don't repaint a lot of models, but I agree wit Stix that if you have clean, uniformly painted undecorated models, just painting over them should be fine. It's a smooth, even undercoat which should not show any bleed-through of any previous pattern. On the other hand, if you decide to strip the older paint, then it's on you to do a perfect stripping job or risk seeing any errors through your finished coat.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Why, Stix, you nasty little contrarian, you.
I am definitely leaning toward the airbrush approach at this point. Same for stripping the paint. I really want reduce my chances of failure as much as I reasonably can.
Just to be a contrarian, I would say if the cars are unlettered, and are a solid color, you really don't need to strip the paint. Acrylic paint covers so well, and goes on so thin, you really can just paint over it. BTW if the seats and window glazing can easily be removed, you might consider painting the inside of the car too. Light green is a good 'go to' color as that was very common for interiors of railroad passenger cars, engine cabs, cabooses, and buildings (like roundhouses).
I've found that, unless I need a specific color that can only be achieved by using an airbrush, it works out very well to use Tamiya spray can paint. Unlike hardware store spray paint cans that are designed to spray like outdoor metal patio furniture, Tamiya paints are designed for models and the spray is very fine and even. In your situation, you probably could use Tamiya white or gray primer spray can paint, then perhaps airbrush the colors you need...although Tamiya makes a variety of colors, you might find they have colors that are the same (or very close) to what you need for your Monon cars.
I just read an article on basic airbrushing by Cody Grivno. I am going to re-read it a couple of times, and then I will be back with some questions.
doctorwayne AntonioFP45 BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing. Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds. I heartily agree...once I performed the suggested procedures that were included with my dual-action Paasche airbrush, I gave-up wasting time and money on rattle-can paints. With an airbrush, you can create pretty-well any colour you choose, and it will give you much better control of the amount of paint used and of the places where a rattle can would be overkill or inaccessable. On multi-coloured items, you can apply one colour, then cap the bottle for later use, and move onto to the next colour...nothing wasted and any left-over paint is available when you need it. Wayne
AntonioFP45 BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing. Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds.
I heartily agree...once I performed the suggested procedures that were included with my dual-action Paasche airbrush, I gave-up wasting time and money on rattle-can paints.
With an airbrush, you can create pretty-well any colour you choose, and it will give you much better control of the amount of paint used and of the places where a rattle can would be overkill or inaccessable.
On multi-coloured items, you can apply one colour, then cap the bottle for later use, and move onto to the next colour...nothing wasted and any left-over paint is available when you need it.
Just kidding...about the threatening emails.
OK, I think that I am willing to purchase an airbrush. But, first, I want to research the issue a bit. I read about, and worry about, things like compressors, paint booths, cleaning the airbrush after each use, stuff like that. But, like I told another member in a personal email exchange, I just learned how to use a framing nail gun, something that I thought that I would never do, so why not try an airbrush?
AntonioFP45 BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing. Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds. If I can ever be of help if you decide to give it a go, message me any time.
BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing. Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds.
If I can ever be of help if you decide to give it a go, message me any time.
AntonioFP45BTW: Not being pushy, but I respectfully suggest that you consider giving airbrushing a try. I was VERY intimidated by the thought of airbrushing. Once I tried it.......I went "ga-ga!". I was amazed that with just a little practice on scrap, how much easier and more relaxing it was than using rattle cans. Nor more (clacka-clacka-clacka) shaking cans every 5 seconds.
With an airbrush, you can create pretty-well any colour you choose, and it will give you much better control of the amount of paint used and of the places where a rattle can would be overkill or inaccessable.On multi-coloured items, you can apply one colour, then cap the bottle for later use, and move onto to the next colour...nothing wasted and any left-over paint is available when you need it.