no numbers or other markings, none at all ..
the switch controls are over laid on an image of the layout ...
push the switch in the direction you want the turnout to go, simple
When my layout was in the Plywood Pacific stage I pencilled in the turnout and signal number on the deck with a pencil. Made it easy to throw and close switches remotely or from the throttle. Toggle switches on the fascia (actually, momentary contact push buttons) are located in close proximity and arranged to mimic the relative location of the switches on the layout and are fairly intuitive to use.
Now that I have painted the deck, I sometimes enter the wrong number in the throttle, and as a result I have to scramble to set the alignment or else slam on the brakes. Either way, I don't like the feeling of panic.
My plan is to install little signs at each turnout or plant with little identifying numbers, similar in size and shape to a whistle post. Or, add little signs to the signal masts with the same identifying info. My turnout and signal numbers are short and to the point: T-3 or S-12A, or something similar.
I haven't actually incorporated this plan yet, so I can't affirm its success. But I think it will work, at least for me. Your mileage may vary.
Good luck.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I use what I call register numbers. These are all single digit from 0 to 9. I label each switch with a name, but this doesn't always connect the control with the turnout in the mind of the operator. So I add a register number, starting at 0 then in sequence up to 9 then I restart the sequence. The register number is easily added to next to the switch label on the fascia control.
I print the register numbers small, in sequence, then apply the label to some 0.010" styrene, then use a hole punch to cut out each one, which is then glued to a small push pin that is next to the switch that is controlled. That way it's easy to verify what turnout the panel switch controls, yet the indicator on the layout is small and unobtrusive.
Got more than ten switches? Then just keep repeating the sequence as you go.
A couple of these are in the foreground in this pic, 7 and 8.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I have a layout schematic with turnout controls in the appropriate locations. Auxiliary toggles for things like power to street lights, structures and crossing gates get small labels printed on my computer and Scotch taped in place.
If you are using DCC throttle control to run turnouts on the layout, you might want small signs on the layout to remind you of the address of each turnout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Real railroads aften had names for sidings, not just numbers for the turnouts. If you're not modeling a particular prototype, you can make things up. Say, call this siding Johnson Siding because the old Johnson farm used to be alongside it. Others may be named for function and location - the drill track at the north end of the yard might be simply called North Drill. So now your toggles don;t have a number, they have a name. At Johnson Siding, the toggle in the normal position would set the turnout so the train stays on the main. Set to reverse, the train enters Johnson Siding.
ALso, I have used localized control panels, rather than one big massive one, as I prefer to walk around with my train. So the toggle for the turnout to Johnson Siding would be right near the physical location of the turnout, so it's pretty obvious which toggle works which turnout.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
one idea is to put a small sign with a number on it or painted a color next to the turnout with corresponding labeled electrical switch The sign can also be used to mark the clearence point is so that cars or locos dont interfere with passing trains etc
I used dry transfer lettering, then sprayed a bit of semi-gloss clear again atop to protect the lettering.
Photo A #844 & #4014 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I used a Dymo ID to make simple stick-on labels...
Wayne
Painter's tape and a Sharpie pen are a cheaper alternative. And you can easily trim it to any size you want with an X-acto knife or scissors. Comes in different colors, too. Helps if you have neat handwriting though...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I've see Youtube videos where they use post it notes for turnouts and rolling stock.
I am not a fan of the that technique.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
How 'bout a label maker? I picked up a Brother P-touch (PT-D200) for $25 and it's come in quite handy for all sorts of projects - i.e. MRR-related and non-MRR. I like the fact that you can adjust the size of the font and put it on two lines. I've even used it to label the decoder address on the bottom side of my undecorated locomotives. And some label makers allow you to print on different widths of labels. I highly recommend getting one if you don't have one already.
Thanks in Advance