Good thinking, but I recommend you don't try to get her to cut out the disks. She might rethink the whole thing.
Deano
ricktrains4824, that's it, I get Fig Newtons, eat the cookies, then use the cookie wrapper to cut up and use for under the paint bottle caps if it's not to thick. Wait, I get the wife to buy the cookies, thats even better.
PC101 BroadwayLion PC101 Yes I put dates on almost everything. Figs. Put Figs on them! I dont like dates. ROAR I'm cheap, Dates cost less then Figs.
BroadwayLion PC101 Yes I put dates on almost everything. Figs. Put Figs on them! I dont like dates. ROAR
PC101 Yes I put dates on almost everything.
Figs.
Put Figs on them!
I dont like dates.
ROAR
I'm cheap, Dates cost less then Figs.
Just get Fig Newtons then... You get cookies, but can claim to the wife to be eating healthy, because it’s figs. It’s a win-win!
So put Fig Newtons on them instead of Dates.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
PC101Yes I put dates on almost everything.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
An old LHS owner would softly blow his breath (carbon dioxide) into the bottle thus removing the oxygen, then finish screwing on the lid. Me, I just clean off the bottle rim and use Saran wrap under the lid, it's free from the kitchen. It's worked for 45 years. Would you believe I have 45 year old paint that has never been opened? Yes I put dates on almost everything.
BroadwayLion Seals in Caps...
Seals in Caps...
I remember a 'clinic' Badger put on at the NTS in 2010. A question came up about paint drying in the bottle. They mentioned that as you use up the paint in the bottle, there is more oxygen left in the bottle and the paint will oxidize(dry out). A vacuum pump can be used to remove the air, but then you may have issues trying to unscrew the cap. I think cleaning the bottle threads and the cap/seal are the best most of us can do.
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I use a trick I learned from an artist friend of mine.
Saran wrap under the cap, scotch tape over the cap seam with the jar.
Hasn’t failed me yet.
Deano,Years ago I used wax paper to seal my Floquil and Poly-Scale paints. It worked quite well until I found cleaning the inside of the lid and the bottle's lid screw down ridges with a top grade paper towel was the better idea.
The best part it was faster then using wax paper.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I have numerous bottles of Poly Scale paint which are old to say the least. The original seals still work fine and the jars are relatively easy to open. My method is to wipe the lip of the jar and the inside of the cap with a clean paper towel before putting the cap back on. Simple! It has worked for years. I have paints that are at least 15 years old (heaven knows how old they were when I bought them) and they still open relatively easily and, when properly stirred, they still work fine.
I also have a number of old Humbrol oil paints and I do the same thing. Before reinstalling the lids, I wipe everything clean including the slot on the top of the can. If there is any hardened paint on the lid, I scrape it clean as well so the lid can seat properly in the can.
I have never used Floquil solvent based paints so my methods may not be relevant, but I can't see there being any difference in the performance of the jar seals if they are kept clean. Maybe I'm wrong.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Badger sells airbrush jars with seals that dissolve with solvent based paint. They also sell upgraded seals that don't dissolve. Acrylic paint isn't a problem with the seals or with saran wrap.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Short reply .... I use small pieces of syran wrap over the bottle opening, then screw on the lid.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Several years ago--just before Testors dropped the Floquil line--I prepared to do some airbrushing of models, using Poly-Scale. I'd been too deep in construction to even fire up the little air compressor I bought on sale from Micro-Mark, but my first thought upon moving into my new apartment was to finish up several projects I'd started before getting sidetracked by rebuilding a Thomas (Industries, not "the Tank Engine" Consolidation I'd always wanted. I finished the O scale MILW gondola-mounted snowplow I built from the Paul Larson's article in the January, 1957, Model Railroader and brush-painted the wood gondola body and cast "concrete" weights, then airbrushed the brass wedge plow inside and out. I found a supply of 2-ounce paint bottles at our local Michael's Craft Store in which to thin the paints for airbrushing, but the soft Tyvec cap seals tore to bits just opening and closing the bottles.
I got a sheet of thin cork, but it wasn't thin enough, so I cut disks of ice cream carton cardboard, HO 8'9" in diameter, and mixed up the colors I needed--and some I wouldn't need right away. Two mistakes: #1 I should've waited to mix the other colors and #2 I should've used cardboard from milk cartons! I ran into several health problems that kept me away from the workbench for much too long, so when I wanted to paint the freelance 36' truss rod flatcar after I finally finished it, I found my Poly-Scale Grimy Black had turned into black clay with a layer of milky liquid on top. I had to buy a bottle of Badger MODELflex Weathered Black to paint the flatcar. For some reason, the Roof Brown and Reefer Yellow I used to paint the Jerusalem Spring water tank wagon to load on the flatcar, they were still okay. Since then, all the premixed Poly-Scale paint has turned into varying thickness soft rubber miniature hockey pucks, which had to be dug out of the bottles.
Meanwhile, I fondly remembered the old Floquil lacquers with their clear plastic inner cap seals--and it hit me: I had Mylar page protectors left over from my Grandt Line and Backshop catalog pages! I removed one of the cardboard disks I'd installed in the 2oz paint bottles, stuck a piece of Scotch brand doube-stick tape on it, and cut Mylar inner seals for those bottles and the new bottles of Badger MODELflex paint I've bought since we lost Poly-Scale. (Badger uses a tougher grade of Tyvec for their inner seals, but I figure the Mylar will produce a "Suspenders and Belt" situation.) I figured if any of the Brethren is losing valuable paint, this might be helpful. Happy modelin'!