Hello, I am new here :)
Started experimenting with decals, searched online but little success to my problem.
I ordered some waterslide decals, white letters printed on transparent decal paper.
My problem is, the transparent decal film is visible around and in-between letters/words once decal dries out. I used Micro-Sol too, cleared model properly I think surface was prepared correctly.
What is the best way to blend, how to make this transparent film be “really’ transparent?
Any tips welcome.
I am sorry if this question has been here before, I searched lot’s of pages on google, some here but could not find right answer.
It's best to apply the decals to a very smooth surface. I spray the model with clear gloss or satin finish rattle can paint. Trim the decals so there isn't much blank space. Some Micro-Sol around the edges can soften those lines. Finally, a spray of gloss, satin or dull clear finish will seal the decal and give the model a uniform surface.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
If you're seeing bubbles or a silvery looking sheen UNDER the film, you've also got to poke at them with a needle to puncture them. Then the solvent can get in from the top of the decal, rather than from the edges, which might be sealed by now. You have to be careful doing this, as it is easy to damage the decal. But the good news is that, if you do, you can remove them and start over.
Differently: Sometimes the shinyness (or lack thereof) of a decal differs from the shinyness of the background. Once it is oversprayed, usually with clear flat, it should disappear. The bad news here is that once the overspray is applied, it's not so easy to then take the decal off. If you're wrong.
I would STRONGLY recommend doing some practice decaling until you feel you KNOW you can pull it off.
Ed
I'd just add that unless it's a perfectly smooth surface - that is, if there are rivets or boards etc. - you may need several applications of Solvaset or something similar to 'snuggle' the decal down...especially if it's an older decal with thicker film (Champ, Walthers) than the newer thin decals (like MicroScale).
Also, once everything is snuggled down, you need to spray the model with flat finish to seal in the decals. Then you can weather the model if you wish. If you try to weather it before sealing in the decals, the weathering will highlight the decal rather than make it's edges less noticeable.
It is called silvering. When Cody airbrushes a gloss coat before decaling, he uses more than one coat. Out of a rattle can, it usually comes out thick and heavy.
to the forum.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The surface of the model must be glossy and smooth.
.
I work Microsol above and below the decal to get it to set, then I finish the process with Daco Strong.
The car gets rinsed, and a coat of Testors #1260 dullcote finishes it off.
Unfortunately, like everything that can be done well... this will take practice, and you will mess a few up on the way.
Oh, and to the Model Railroader forums. Your first few posts are delayed by the moderators, but that will end soon enough. Please stick around with us.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
to the Model Railroader Forums, Coa!
I think that the previous responses have covered the subject fairly well.
However, I have found a few things that may prove useful. Use distilled water for soaking the decal - it's available in gallon jugs at any supermarket, and not at all expensive. This eliminates any dissolved minerals which might otherwise be present in tap water, and a gallon will do a lot of decals.When you're cutting the lettering from the decal sheet, use a sharp blade and don't cut to closely to the lettering or image. Once the lettering is free of the main sheet, place it on a hard surface (I prefer a sheet of glass), and use a sharp blade to trim as closely as possible to the image or letter, using a straight-down chopping motion. If necessary, do this work under magnification (eyeglasses, Optivisor, or loupe).The reason for the two-part cutting is that slicing the image, even with a sharp blade, raises the edges along the cut line, and when you apply that decal to the model, the setting solution is often insufficient to to make those edges settle competely flat onto the surface.The chopping motion pushes the edges of the cut down, making the applied decal easier to set.
Before applying decals, spray (I prefer Testors Glosscote, thinned with lacquer thinner and applied with an airbrush, but it's also available in a spray can) the entire area which is to be lettered, not just the particular areas where the lettering will be applied.Allow that to dry completely, usually at least a full day, and longer won't hurt.
Do not rush the soaking process for the decal, but allow it to release from the backing paper on its own. If it's big enough to handle with tweezers (not something small, such as a single digit for dimensional data), dip the released film into water, submerging it completely, then, as you withdraw it from the water, drag the back-side of it over the lip of the container holding the water - this helps to remove any residue left from the backing paper. Depending on the particular decal, you may want to repeat this a couple of times.I often use a suitably-sized brush to coat the back of larger decals with an application of Microscale's MicroSol (decals which can be gripped by their edge with tweezers, with the majority of it hanging freely). The decal is then applied to the model and nudged into place using the tweezers.If you don't wish to do the above step, most decals applied using only water can be re-wet and moved an almost infinite number of times. Use references on the model (rivet lines, panel lines, doors, ladders, and other details) as guides to position the lettering correctly and level. Where those details aren't available, I like to cut strips of masking tape as guidelines, and when lettering with individual letters or numerals, often use a pencil to denote the beginning and end of each word, so that the spacing is correct. Likewise, individual letter spacing is not usually uniform, but rather depends on the particular letters and their sequence within the words. Google "kerning" for more info.
Once the decals have been applied on the gloss surface and have been set and have fully-dried, overspray them with another coat of clear gloss. This step may seem unnecessary, but the gloss of the decal seldom matches exactly the gloss of the surface to which it has been applied. This overspray ensures that the entire surface has a uniform finish.If you're using an airbrush for applying the clear finish, it will dry (to-the-touch, at least) very rapidly, and you can then apply the flat (or semi-gloss, if you're modelling a fairly new car) almost immediately. Airbrushing gives you the option of mixing that final clear coat to whatever sheen or flatness you wish for that particular model.The car can then be weathered as you wish, but unless you're weathering using oils or chalk, I'd recommend no flat overspray on the weathering, as it usually makes the weathering effects too uniform.
An Athearn boxcar, with lettering from Speedwitch Media...
...and a kit-built tank car from Exactrail. The lettering is mostly individual letters, numerals, and punctuation...168 pieces in total...
Wayne
After decaling, and after a good long dry, say overnight or more, give the model a coat of Testor's DullCote. That will make the decal film invisible. In principle you could use any maker's satin clear coat from a rattlecan. I tried that once, don't remember the brand name, but the decals crinkled up. After that experience I stick with Testor's DullCote, from a rattlecan.
Other decal steps. Decal onto fresh clean paint. I have had excellent results applying decals over quite flat paints like red auto primer. Trim the decal closely and round the corners slightly. After the decal is applied, and dry enough to stay in place, I give it a good shot of Solvaset. This softens the decal film and lets it snuggle down over surface detail like rivets. Once you apply Solvaset, any attempt to move or reposition the decal will cause it to tear. So make sure the decal is in exactly the right location, and is dry enough to stay in place, before applying Solvaset. I have been using Solvaset for many years, and have no plans to try the Microscale setting solutions. They might work, they might not, but I see no reason to fiddle with them since Solvaset does work just fine.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I read through this thread and was going to post my process, but....
It turn's out Doctor Wayne Does it EXACTLY the same way I do !
Soooooo .... Do your decaling the Doctor Wayne Way !
Rust...... It's a good thing !
Hi,
First, thanks everyone for GREAT responses and welcoming messages.
OK, I have NOT applied any clear gloss before or after applying decals. That’s going to be first thing to try on some sample/test car.
I think I got pretty good at applying decal, taking it out of water, placing on position etc but this problem was bothering me and can’t wait to try your suggestions.
Also I was actually cutting decal not to close to the lettering. I was leaving approx. 3-4 mm around the word thinking “blending” will happen (using Microsol) or that some wetsending will be needed (to blend). Most of you are actually saying cut close to decal, OK will do that even though I am “scared” and thinking (my logic only) I won’t have room to blend foil.
Anyway as I said, first I will try with glossing before and after decal, that is logical since when decal is wet or in MicroSol foil disappears completely, it makes sense that gloss lacquer will lock it in.
Will let you know how did it go.
Thanks again and great stuff to read here.
Thanks for your concurrence Little Timmy. I don't claim that my methods are the best or only way to decal, but I have had good success using those methods, which were learned mostly through experience and experimentation, and not just a few missteps, too.
Great advice Dr. Wayne and I add one, well, three items: practice, patience and perseverance.
RR_MelWalthers Solvaset
Solavset is my preferred decal setting as well, but there are some cautions because it is a strong solution. It softens the decal film.
Once you have applied Solvaset, DO NOT touch the decal again until it is dry. If you try to move the decal it will deform and be ruined. Use a small amount, just enough to cover it and wick underneath from the edges. Carefully remove excess liquid with the very tip of a paper towel.
The decal may crinkle a bit with you first apply Solvaset. This is normal, so don't freak out. Do not touch it. It will settle down shortly.
Let it dry overnight, and check for bubbles and areas where it has not settled around raised or lower details or in corners. *** these areas with a needle and apply more Solvaset allowing it to wick into the needle holes. At this point the decal will be well set and excess solvent can be blotted without damage to the decal.
Some people who use products like MicroSol suggest placing a drop of solvent on the surface and float the decal in place. This does wotk with weaker solutions, but will not work with Solvaset.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
G PaineSolavset is my preferred decal setting as well, but there are some cautions because it is a strong solution.
Solvaset is pretty strong, but NOTHING anywhere near Daco Strong.
This stuff needs to be in everyone's arsenal. It is the best problem solver for difficult decals.
SeeYou190...Solvaset is pretty strong, but NOTHING anywhere near Daco Strong.....
I had some MicroMark rivet decals that wouldn't settle on panel seams, even with repeated applications of Solvaset. In desperation, I loaded a suitably-sized brush with MEK, and made one quick and light pass over each rivet line, and the film settled beautifully.
I wouldn't, however, recommend it for setting lettering decals.