Here is my new to me PFM Frisco Russian Decapod. All it takes is the removal of 3 screws, two micro ones just below the cab on the rear of the model, then one long screw that goes up thru the middle of the cylinder block and into the boiler. Then the whole top comes off the frame, leaving what we see here. The only change is the original genunie Pittman open frame motor is in the process of being replaced with a NWSL 1630 can motor. The Pittmann ran fine but its speed was inconsistant once warmed up. So, I took it out and put this can motor in that I had on hand already. We will see if this little can has the "stuff" to pull freight tomorrow once the silicone cures. If not, I will take it back out and overhaul the Pittman and see if I can stablize its speed. Most of these vintage models need nothing more than a new rubber tube between the motor and the gear box, maybe a fresh magnet stack using the super magnets from Micro Mark and some relubrication. I run in models on my test rollers as I lack a functioning layout at the moment(under construction). PFM/United, Akane, Tenshodo, Westside Models and most others have the same basic design. Those brands I listed are the ones that I suggest for the first time buyer of brass steam. Even the 2-10-0 Russian Decapod with all flanged drivers, its rated for 18" radius curves in the PFM catalogs. Back then, that curve was much more common, so those older models were built with tighter curves in mind. And, with PFM, Akane and Tenshodo, they built them to run, not just be looked at. Here is the PFM/United Frisco Decapod chassis on the rollers
Here is a common early brass diesel drive. This one is my Alco Models/Kumata Alco RS32 road switcher. Stil sporting its original huge open frame motor, which runs really well. This one uses hobbytown of boston style drive shafts, some use a funky rubber with 3 metal pin style joints that is just total rubbish. NWSL is your friend on these with better drive shafts ect. I usually use the A-Line can motors and thier mounting cradle/weight when I repower them. I super glue the motor to the cradle/weight, then use self tapping screws thru the original motor mounting holes to hold the cradle to the models frame. I run analog DC, so this one runs well enough for my use that I will leave the open frame motor in the model, why spend $$ when not needed? Enjoy! Mike the Aspie
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
I recently disassembled and painted my PFM/United 2-6-2. It is a beauty.
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Soon I will start the project of reassembly.
For a DC guy like me, these old brass steamers are perfect.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
For those asking themselves "scared of brass??" I have seen that comment many times that a prospective buyer is scared to take it apart. Most older brass is nearly as easy as an old Athern diesel. Steam that is not articulated is 3 screws. Diesels are usualy 4-6 screws holding the frame to the body unless its a huge DD40ax. If you have ever fancied owning atleast one brass engine, now is one of the best times to do so, its a buyers market. However there are plenty of duds, overpriced models on ebay and so forth. I always say to the first time buyer, post up what your interested in, the importer/builder if known ect. Take PFM models. PFM or Pacific Fast Mail was one of the huge importers of brass from the earliest days of brass importing. They imported models made by United, Fujiyama, Tenshodo, SKI, and a few others and near the end, Samhongsa of Korea. If one of the PFM models fits your bill, then your in excellent shape. They are one of the best running models and most times only need a basic cleaning/relubrication to run again. They are easily can motored if need be, many later models have the tender floors drilled for sound speakers. If you have questions or are looking to buy a model and have no clue where to go or what to buy, post up your questions.
Looks great Kevin! Cant wait to see her once she is back together. I believe it was Kalmbach that put out a soft cover book on how to paint brass trains. It is a great read and applies to other models needing to be painted as well, other than you do not bake plastic models! Thats whats nice about brass, you can bake it in the oven at around 170-180'F(make sure your oven is bloody well accurate on its temp however) I bake at 175' for one hour, then allowed to cool naturaly. Parts cannot be glued or such to bake a model. This is why I will have to remove the motor and its silicone mount, paint and bake, then remount the whole set up. Just part of the process. Btw, I just did a engine light test run on a short piece of track and she is smooth running for a stiff/not run in model. Mike the Aspie
I inherited some samsongha brass narrow gauge locos, do you have an idea for how the difficulty would be to put a decoder in it?
(My Model Railroad, My Rules)
These are the opinions of an under 35 , from the east end of, and modeling, the same section of the Wheeling and Lake Erie railway. As well as a freelanced road (Austinville and Dynamite City railroad).
Jimmy, can you describe the models? Do they run well in DC? Installing a decoder is easy. Getting a brass model to run well can be much harder.
Simon
Who is the importer of those narrow gauge engines, Sunset perhaps? Some Samhongsa stuff runs really well, some has issues, just depends when it was imported. Lots of the early Korean engines have issues as they learned the trade of making brass engines that ran well. So a few duds are out there. The duds can be saved, just takes a wee bit more work. Mike the Aspie
The Narrow gauge stuff is still basically brand new in the box.
Similar to this
https://www.brasstrains.com/Classic/Product/Detail/094329/HOn3-Brass-Model-Key-D-RGW-Rio-Grande-2-8-0-C-19-346-Unpainted
Jimmy_Braum I inherited some samsongha brass narrow gauge locos, do you have an idea for how the difficulty would be to put a decoder in it?
If it's ONLY a decoder, should be pretty easy. ESU makes a non-sound decoder that's only a quarter inch square. You should then use the extra space (in the tender?) to hold a "keep alive"--HIGHLY appropriate for small light locos.
You should probably plan on doing a direct wiring connection (soldering), as opposed to a plug-in. It saves space.
Sound? Well, that's gonna take more luck/work/planning. The big trick is finding room for a speaker.
Your example of the 2-8-0 showed up as I was writing this. It all goes into the tender. As I said/implied, you should be comfortable with soldering. And general model building. Then the only angst is whether you want sound. A "keep alive" is more important than sound, I would say.
The newer "sugar cube" speakers are wonders for these little engines. If putting the sound/dcc in them is beyond your ablities, there are places that can and will do the work. If your on facebook, join one of the brass model train groups. They can advise the best places to get this work done as some shops will not work on brass while others are excellent at it. Sound is nice, but when you have been around the real ones, it lacks the bass response and just sounds "fake" to my ears. It also ads complexity to the operation and maintaince of the model. I avoid that at all costs. I will take analog DC and traditional block control anyday.
Mike the Aspie
He had a blackstone with sound and DCC, so the other two do not need sound. Just a decoder
You should be able to shoehorn a small n scale decoder in them. You wont know how much room till you take the engine apart and see how much space you have inside there