I went to a train show over the weeelend and found this old, seemingly junk locomotive for the princely sum of only $10.00. The plan was to gut it, re-paint, decal, and detail it and use it as a dummy. Imagine my surprise when, upon getting it home and putting it on a test track, it not only runs but runs pretty well.
So now what? I'm not sure of it's pedigree although I suspect it's an old Athearn unit. I suppose it's too old to convert to DCC but if possible I could put a high end decoder and sound in it and still be way ahead on the money.
So first of all, can anybody tell me for sure what brand it is?
And what are the chances of converting it to DCC or should I just go with my original plan and make a dummy out of it?
Here are a couple of photos:
That is an older Athearn locomotive with metal sideframes and steel flywheels. It is the same vintage as my Trainmaster, and it runs real good too!
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There is a clip beneath the motor that needs to be insulated to install DCC. This is how the motor is grounded to the "hot" frame. You should use Kadee 20 series (insulated) couplers. When you take the motor out, those old amber motor mounts will break. Athearn has replacements available.
Those motors can pull about an amp, so you need a higher current decoder.
If it were mine, I woudl keep it running just as a bargain hunting trophy. It looks OK.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
It appears to be an Athearn SD9. If it runs well, then it's worth trying a decoder in, but I'd start with a low-end motor-only decoder before risking an expensive sound decoder in it.
I found one of these in Milwaukee colors for about the same price. It runs OK, but the long wheelbase and 6 axles give me problems at a few points going around 18-inch curves. So far, I've only run it on DC.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
are the drivers the pressed steel ones ? if so you might consider replacments.
j. c. are the drivers the pressed steel ones ? if so you might consider replacments.
Make sure you do a stall current test. I've thrown out a few of these, as they pulled too many amps.
Mike.
My You Tube
You can buy a replacement can motor for about $25, drop the current draw to less than 1/2 amp, buy NWSL nickel silver wheels, and have a darn fine engine for less than $50. And at that point she'll be ready for a decoder, and there's a huge amount of room in the shell.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
If it has metal sideframes, which it looks like it does, the "standard" replacement wheels will not work.
I have not found replacement wheels that fit my Trainmaster.
All the replacement wheels I have seen are for the plastic sideframes with inboard bronze square bushings.
SeeYou190 If it has metal sideframes, which it looks like it does, the "standard" replacement wheels will not work.
Yep, the side frames are definitely metal.
2002p51Yep, the side frames are definitely metal.
Then you are in the same boat I am.
I just don't run the Trainmaster very often. If you do find a source for good quality replacement wheels for these locomotives, let me know.
I would still keep it and run it. It was a lucky find and quite a bargain.
2002p51And what are the chances of converting it to DCC
Here is a rather long but very detailed video on how to convert your old Athearn BB locomotive to DCC:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTp7qHmYQk8
It includes replacing the headlight bulb with an LED, which is strongly recommended.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Newer Athearn motoors will fit too, for a replacement. Or one of the many remotor sets with nice can mootors.
At one time I am sure NWSL had replacement wheels for the old outside bearing models as well as the newer ones, but they don't any longer. Thing is, Athearn made these things mostly unchanged other than the upgraded motor and trucks for a long time, and the new parts fit the old frame. One thing you might be able to do it find one of the newer plastic truck ones with a smashed shell and swap parts.
No need to toss it, for $10 it's a decent loco and for far less than a new one will cost you can easily upgrade the performance to thoroughly modern standards, and adding DCC is not really difficult.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Wayne i never had pick up problems with them but living in a dusty place and having a open surface they seemed to need cleaning more often , that is why i sugested replacments.
Athearn's sintered iron wheels work fine if you keep them clean. Or since it's got metal sideframes, you could do like I did and drill holes in the bottom of the sideframe and attach track wipers with a #2 self tapping screw.
Hello all,
2002p51...converting it to DCC(.)
What a great project!
Take a look at this thread:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/270209.aspx
If it's a good runner on DC then it's a great candidate to upgrade.
The only conversion I have done are non-sound decoders.
Re-motoring would make sense at this time.
As has been posted- -replace the motor mounts. Athearn makes insulated motor mounts for this purpose.
For the electrical path; from the rails to the wheels through to the motor I prefer to isolate the trucks from the frame, and the motor from the frame as well.
Some will advocate still using the frame as a conduit from the trucks to the motor. I have done this but it invites a potential catastrophic event. (Don't ask me how I know, I just know.)
By isolating the frame you do not have to be as concerned with the coupler trip pin(s) shorting on the track.
Using plastic draft gear boxes will also decrease the possibility of shorts through the all metal couplers.
I would also recommend converting the lighting from incandescent to LED.
Some decoders support LEDs without resistors. Also, using LEDs will also decrease the power draw compared to incandescent bulbs- -not to mention life-span.
Keep us informed on your progress and don't be afraid to post more questions.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnitSome will advocate still using the frame as a conduit from the trucks to the motor. I have done this but it invites a potential catastrophic event. (Don't ask me how I know, I just know.) By isolating the frame you do not have to be as concerned with the coupler trip pin(s) shorting on the track. Using plastic draft gear boxes will also decrease the possibility of shorts through the all metal couplers.
Wouldn't using Kadee 20 series (non-conductive) couplers solve all these problems?
I have used these couplers on all my locomotives and brass freight cars and had no problems.
-Kevin.
SeeYou190Wouldn't using Kadee 20 series (non-conductive) couplers solve all these problems?
He must have of had what rrinker describes. Check out JJ's link, scroll down and read rrinker's post.
I've never had a problem. I have two BB Athearns, with the extra wheel "wipers" added on. They are soldered on the the same frame member that those that add the black wire to the truck, are soldered to.
If the frame is still hoot to one rail, and yuou use all metal couplers connected right to the frame, then the two WILL short if one is placed with the frame grounded to the right rail and the other with the frame grounded to the left rail (back to back). No way around that other than to use the insulated shank couplers, or grind the mount down and put the couplers in a plastic box, screwed to the frame through the ears and not the screw hole in the middle, which can touch the coupler shank when pulled or pushed. It may not be super noticeable at first - the blackening on the couplers isn't super conductive, but as the couplers wear with use, it will get worse.
If the trip pin is hitting a rail, you have bigger problems than a short.
Actually, I had started a post about the short throough the couplers in that thread, then I noticed he said he was getting sparks running the loco by itself, so that couldn't possibly be the short through the couplers problem.
Yes, another option to consider.
The problem with metal couplers and hot frames is magified on my railroad. All my cabooses are brass, and about 10% of my freight cars.
The chances for short circuits are large. The Kadee 20 series couplers were an absolute blessing.
jjdamnit SeeYou190 Wouldn't using Kadee 20 series (non-conductive) couplers solve all these problems? Yes, another option to consider.
Another option is to cut the coupler mounting extensions off the frame, then build styrene pads under the end walkways, and body-mount the couplers using screws. This also allows you to close the gap in the pilots below the couplers.
Wayne
I converted 2 Athern Trainmasters a long time ago. I don't remember having any troubles.
I just isolated the motor from the chassis.
I used Kadee Universal Black Box insulated gearboxes to install couplers.
If you decide to remotor for DCC, the easiest upgrade you can do is an Athearn gold motor. It's a drop-in replacement for the old black Jet 400, and it uses about half as much power at any speed. Here's one on eBay now with the pads and everything: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-HO-ATHEARN-FP45-DIESEL-LOCOMOTIVE-DUAL-BRASS-FLYWHEEL-MOTOR-ASSY/302765148174?hash=item467e35880e
To insulate it, stick a piece of electrical tape or masking tape underneath. For electrical pickup from the left rail, tap a screw into the chassis and run a wire from it to the decoder. A 2-56 drill and tap set is pretty cheap if you don't already have one.
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I really think this would be a good project to try and convert to DCC. If you give up or screw it up you can always just make it a dummy. It's a nice looking loco and since it runs well it seems a shame to not at least try to give it a place on your roster.
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