basementdweller The port hole Windows took quite a bit to pop them out. The issue I see with the long side grab handles beside the cab doors is the fact that the stripe decal will have to be slid under the handles, and there are multiple full length handles.
The port hole Windows took quite a bit to pop them out.
The issue I see with the long side grab handles beside the cab doors is the fact that the stripe decal will have to be slid under the handles, and there are multiple full length handles.
One trick for getting glazing out is putting the shell in the freezer for a bit. I did that with a Proto RDC shell I'm getting ready to paint with Alcad and all the glass popped right out.
Andrew Roberts
Greenhorn Modeling the B&O
Maryland, USA
Hi, you're welcome.
This is just the approach that I use, however there are other methods that modelers here have used successfully as well. It's good to use the method that works best for you.
Hi greens
basementdweller Antonio, your detailed step by step guide is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
Antonio, your detailed step by step guide is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Basementdweller, youre welcome!
Respectfully, it would likely be easier if you applied the decal stripes first. If you're concerned about damaging the finish with your hands then consider this alternate approach.
1. After installing your decal stripes and the solvents have evaporated, carefully use a needle and puncture through the decals where the holes for the grabs are. The needle should be the diamter of the hole, preferably not larger if possible.
2. Seal the shells with clearcoat (1 to 2 thin smooth, even coats - test it first). After applying the clear, you should still see the punctured spots. Allow the shells to dry. Once your clear coat has cured, your shells can be safely handled.
3. Carefully puncture the clearcoat where the grab iron holes are, again. Remove any residue.
4. Install your grab irons with an almost invisible dab of glue on the tips. The clearcoat will help hold the grabs in place.
5. Apply your semi-gloss, flat, or dullcoat clear to your shells. Those grabs aren't going anywhere!
6. Weather to your heart's content.
basementdwellerMy thinking on installing the glass and then masking was that it it may be easier it install the port holes before paint builds up, but I too hate trying to mask off.
My limited experience is it is not a tight fit, where a thick coat of paint would cause a problem.
Did the glazing and other parts come off easily?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
As always I appreciate the replies and assistance. I will be using my airbrush which to this point has been limited to weathering and one or two previous loco painting projects that were learning experiences. I plan to use acrylic paints.
My thinking on installing the glass and then masking was that it it may be easier it install the port holes before paint builds up, but I too hate trying to mask off.
Antonio, thank you for the informative post, much appreciated. I will try to get photos up once finished.
Hello Basementdweller, good replies above from fellow modelers.
One of the biggest "positives" in your scenario is that you're painting streamlined "carbody shells" instead of hood units (which makes things easier).
Are you painting with an airbrush or aerosol can? I often respectfully suggest the following on paint related threads:
....Whichever route you are taking, once your paint is mixed-thinned (airbrush) or shaken well (rattlecan), spend a little time test spraying it on a scrap sample first. Use either scrap freight car shells, compact disks, coffee or peanut can lids, etc. Nice factor about CD's and plastic can lids is that people often discard them and you can often obtain them, for free, just by asking.
Here I airbrushed a mix of NYC Dk. Gray on a lid. I was satisfied with how smooth it looked and proceeded to apply it to my model:
Not my intent to come across as a know-it-all and some may be tired of seeing the above suggestion, but I can't tell you how many times I've seen photos of paint jobs that were decaled and weathered beautfiully!......yet the paint finish itself appeared rough, splotchy, or orange peeled.
When I first ventured into painting models, I thought that my work looked decent until I saw the smooth, amazing work of modeler Carl Marchand. He used both, rattle cans and airbrushes. I instantly realized that that my spray and mixing techniques needed refining and found that spending the extra time testing my mixes paid off well
Looking forward to seeing your finished ALCO's
You should wait until all painting is done and dry before installing glass...
Window glass goes in last.
.
I cannot think of any advantage to installing it earlier.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
basementdweller But what about window glazing, the PA's have port holes, do you install the glazing first and then mask it off, or instal glazing after painting is done?
But what about window glazing, the PA's have port holes, do you install the glazing first and then mask it off, or instal glazing after painting is done?
This feels like a trick-question. WHY would I install the glazing, and then mask it off? If I DON'T install the glazing, it will seem to automatically NOT need masking.
And I LOVE not having to mask. Even more than you think!
Perhaps OP can develop this further?
Ed
My method is to install everything that will require painting prior to applying primer, even MU hoses, sand lines, etc. When primer is thoroughly dry, colors are applied. Once colors are dry (no paint odor), touch up MU and sand hoses, handrails, step edges, etc. Apply decals. When decals are dry, (the next day)do any weathering, especially that which will involve spraying. If your masking is not perfect, the least little paint creeping under it could ruin your glazing especially if your are using a solvent based paint such as Floquil or some of the Scalecoats. Glazing installation should be a part of the final re-assembly of the model.
Starting a new painting project, HO PA-1 and PB-1 set for the PRR. Currently I have removed all the hand rails, glazing, horns etc so I could soak the shells and get the paint stripped off.
Shells are bare plastic and cleaned with soap and water. I need to prime them then paint.
i usually install grab handles, hand rails, horns etc prior to painting in order to minimize handling. But what about window glazing, the PA's have port holes, do you install the glazing first and then mask it off, or instal glazing after painting is done?
Thanks for the assistance.