cx500The liquid resulting from cleaning the painting tools can also make a useful wash.
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I have read this tip many times before, but it does not work for me. My used thinner always has a purple hue that does not work well for a reallistic wash.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
The liquid resulting from cleaning the painting tools can also make a useful wash. I had two levels, one for the initial rinse which ended up a mixture of different colors, and the second for the final cleaning. That initial rinse liquid, as long as there was a decent proportion of dark colors, often gave a convincing result.
John
You could just buy this product. It is expensive, but it works miracles.
My friends and I call it "Skill In A Bottle."
hon30critter http://pacificcoastairlinerr.com/aging_wood/
http://pacificcoastairlinerr.com/aging_wood/
I use this method. Works like a charm.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
jjdamnitA wash is basically a shade. If you begin with a give amount of the pigment; in this case India ink, and dilute it with the solvent; alcohol or water, until you get the final shade you want you could end up with a quart of wash.
Thanks anyway JJ, I didn't mean I start with a bottle of ink and add drops of alcohol, until I end up with a gallon of wash. Geez!
To be specific, which I guess I need to be, I do start with a given amount of acohol, and add drops of ink until I get what I want.
Thank you.
Mike.
You can never be TOO specific and exact in these forums, if you don't, you leave yourself wide open.
My You Tube
Hello all,
mbinsewiI just start with the ink, and keep adding the alcohol until it's deluted the way I want it.
A wash is basically a shade.
If you begin with a give amount of the pigment; in this case India ink, and dilute it with the solvent; alcohol or water, until you get the final shade you want you could end up with a quart of wash.
I suggest begin with a given quantity of the solvent; I use 70% isopropyl alcohol, and then add the pigment in drops.
You can make a test card listing the amount of pigment used for a given wash. This way you can easily reproduce the same opacity.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
NVSRR ...I also have a highly thinned acrylic paint. I find it depends on the material as to how well it works. I want to make an oil based wash since oil has a tendancy to spread and sit more realistic then water based....
Water-based paints can work well as washes if you add a drop-or-two of dish detergent - the same principle as "wet" water for ballasting.
This one has just a preliminary wash to tone-down the mortar effects...
Pollyscale wash on the oil house...
...and on the shop at Lowbanks...
...over a different colour brick...
These are different coloured Pollyscale washes over brick painted with Floquil Reefer Orange...
...and a close-up of the last one...
This one also has brick painted with Floquil Reefer Orange, but I used India ink in 70% alcohol. I'm not entirely pleased with the results, as I found it hard to control and it dried too quickly...
Two slightly different brick colours with two different Pollyscale washes...
...different coloured brick, different coloured wash...
While I do most of my freight car weathering with an airbrush or pastels, some get a wash before the airbrush work...
Wayne
You can make washes of any colour. I also use the 70% isopropyl alcohol wash of about 4 drops of India Ink per 250 ml of alcohol. I have made such washes with just plain white acrylic paint, grey, etc.
I haven't watched the video(s), but my technique is to do this last thing after all other applications of base layer paint and dry-brushing. Gives that faded or deeply grooved look, depending on the wash.
A teaspoon or two of india ink to a pint of 70 percent alcohol is a common mixture.
Eric
Just a thought, there is the create fx line of washes. I never used them yet. Worth mentioning.
Washes i do have is the india ink. I also have a highly thinned acrylic paint. I find it depends on the material as to how well it works. I want to make an oil based wash since oil has a tendancy to spread and sit more realistic then water based. The slower dry time gives you more time to work the effect too
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Hi Chip:
You might be interested in looking at this method of making styrene look like wood:
Here is another one with some really good examples:
http://hon3annual.com/turning-styrene-into-wood/
These methods can be used a little or a lot (and IMHO sometimes too much). They are a little more labour intensive than just paint and a wash but you can get some pretty impressive results.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I would be careful of the 90% alcohol, it is also a paint stripper
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
I haven't watched many of Kathy's videos, but I use india ink and 70 or 90% alcohol for a wash. No special mix formular, I just start with the ink, and keep adding the alcohol until it's deluted the way I want it.
I've never tried paint. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Maybe I should search for Kathy's video on this, and check it out.
I have been following Kathy Millatt's method of creating weathered wood from polystyrene plastic and I need to make a "black wash." She uses it to bring out the grains and lumber edges by brushing on over acrylic paint. She then brushes out the blotches with paint thinner.
I have a few different oil based black paints, paint thinner, laquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol and India Ink. How should I make up this wash?
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.