Thought I might throw this out there to see if anybody ever got this to work right. Our club has the first version of the 130 foot Walthers turntable that was DCC. This is the one that had no central shaft. This is one that we have been messing with for a long time. It will go to one stall off then just start spinning. We had consulted Walthers and were told that they had a lot of problems with them and that is why they redesigned them. Has anyone had any luck getting them to run right? We have hit the point of just abandoning it.
It's been discussed a few times in the past, maybe try a search in the box on the right side that says Search the Community. It should bring up past threads and discussions.
Mike.
My You Tube
drgwcs We have hit the point of just abandoning it.
We have hit the point of just abandoning it.
From what I've read, this is most likely the path you will take.
Meantime, the newest version is pretty nice. They've had an issue with the 130' model software, but have apparently solved it. My control board is at Walthers right now getting updated. The 130' model had a problem with it defaulting to a smaller version turntable, and thus getting lost as it rotated.
I had hit a lot of discussion of problems on a search but little solutions. If there is a thread that would help- maybe I am searching the wrong keywords- please let me know. We don't really want to buy another one- already wasted enough money on this piece of junk and Walthers was of little help. (was sent in once but it never operated right from day one)
I wonder if anyone ever had junked the control box and gotten them to operate manually? That is more what we are thinking. We have a wye on the branch so it is not absolutely neccessary.
I have the early 130’ model. After two years of effort, I gave up and removed from layout. I have several posts elaborating on my displeasure with Walthers TT, locomotives and response. So, enough said there. Due to the installation location on my layout, visual alignment was not an option. I depended on accurate digital alignment and that was a joke. As more and more complaints and bad experiences with products surface I hope those contemplating purchasing their products take pause and consider spending hundreds of dollars on these “questionable “ offerings. These TT’s should have been thoroughly tested and debugged prior to being released for sale. At one time I considered the transfer table......glad I gave up on that idea. Reviews indicated same indexing issues and very poor performer. For now TT and two unbuilt 3 stall roundhouse structures set under the benchwork. In original cartons......grow weary of looking at them...anyone willing to take the chance, give me a yell.
This seems to be the general experience of everyone on them. I was just hoping someone got something to work (except as a target for a sledgehammer)
You should be able to rework it to manual switch, the pre DCC RTR worked perfictly.
This is a little different as there is no central shaft and electronics in the bridge too. As I understand this was very different from the other models. Has anyone wired one in and which way was it done- what wires were used?
Guess I have never seen that one. I have a pre DCC one with center shaft RTR.
I commented on these before after I purchased three of them.....90' DCC. Not one of them worked, sent back to Walthers, and waited almost 6 months for repairs. When they arrived, they were even worse than before. I rarely say anything bad about anyone, importer, or manufacterer, but in this case I could turn my displeasure into an art form. There will be a rainy day in Hell, before I ever purchase anything from Walthers....not so much for the extremely poor quailty, but their indifference into making it right. I purchased these from MB Klein. they were sympathetic but also would not stand behind the turntables suggesting I send them back to Walthers. For the record I only now purchase items from sellers I know will stand behind their products, and I could care less about discount....only service!
I did find a gentleman, Chris Moran, in my area who successfully converted these to analog and they work extremely well. DCC in a turntable with being able to operate from your hand held throttle is a ridiculous waste of effort and engineering...at least for me. I really wanted the older DC turntables, but could not find any on any market. On the positive side, these Heljan made turntables are quite nice looking and can be made to function. Then you have something really great for your engine yard. I have heard good things about their new 130' TT.
HZ
Howard thank you so much for your reply- If you could not get them to work or walthers to respond........... By chance would Mr Moran be willing to share how he converted them such as a wiring diagram? We would be fine with analog- less issues would be great. (The one on the other end of the layout is old school scratchbuilt with an antenna rotor of all things powering it- sounds like a cross between a coffee grinder and an angry cat but it works)
I'll try to contact Chris today, but he has been hospitalized now for over a month. He is an electrical genius of sorts and a fine fellow to boot. I have his number, but I would rather not release it without his consent.
Oh my- sorry to hear he has been going through it so bad. I don't want to add anything on to his plate with that going on. This can wait.
I've been following along, although I know nothing about the Walthers TT, and I still have a hard time visualizing a TT with out a center pivot point.
I have been doing some searching, and I think even the prototypes had a center pivot.
It is kind of a ring- most turntables are powered off of a cental shaft with a gear on it. Wish I had a photo but it is at one of the member's houses- he was trying to fix it.
The two newest 'built-up' issues of the Walthers turntable have a central well and top housing under the bridge. The well, inset in the center of the pit, has wipers that wipe concentric rings embedded in the nether surface of the top housing midway under the bridge. It isn't a pivot so much as an electrical conduit. The drive comprises geared shafts that run out to the extremes of the bridge, which is itself supported on two small idler wheels. The drive ring, toothed and recessed, is the driving surface for the gears at the ends of the bridge. I may have one detail wrong (haven't had mine installed since 2012), but that should be just about right.
The central pivot shaft and large ring, unless it's different and the newer kit version, is what I had prior to my 2006 'built-up' 90' Walters version, non-DCC. That thing gave me no end of fits. Others, too many, reported the same problems.
Are you referring to the one with the blue control box? Ours worked fine off track power initially but every system short required a re-programme. We cured that by installing a separate DC supply but that meant we couldn't control it via the DCC throttle. However after short time it stppoed working via the blue box as well.
Our solution was to convert it to eliminate the blue box and go to manual control. We now have a reversing switch to control direction and a push switch to power it. The power supply voltage was adjusted to keep speed down so alignment by eye works fine.
Bill
That is the one. When you hooked it up to DC how did it react? on DCC ours just spins and wont get out of programing. I am unsure if they have tried just DC. Manual control looks like a better option. Could you share perhaps a wiring diagram and any other hints. What voltage did you use to step down the speed? Thanks for your help
On DCC it was fine, just can't use the DCC throttle to rotate the TT, only the blue box. The wiring for DC supply is in the instructions.
For the manual conversion we removed the cable from the blue box, identified which wire did what, ie track power and TT motor power and added feeds to those wires.
I don't recall if we had to make changes under the TT bridge. Also don't recall what voltage we are using to get it run at an appropriate speed. Will have a look next time I am at club.
We may put an old DC powerpack in so we can control speed and direction that way.
We don't have any problem aligning the tracks.