Need Help Attaching Plastic Cover to Tender

[starman]

I have a Bachmann Spectrum Series HO J Class engine that was probably made in the 1980’s.  I removed the plastic cover of the tender and installed decoders that let me operate the engine in DDC.  Somehow or other, I have managed to lose the screws that hold the plastic cover in place.  I have looked all over my train room, many times over the past several weeks, and have not found the screws.

 

I decided to give up looking and find some screws and call Bachmann.  They immediately told me they had no parts for any engine from the 80’s.  I saw some screws on their parts list, but these screws are only listed by part number.  When I asked if they could tell me the actual size of the screw, they said no.  According to Bachmann, I would have to order different screws hoping to get one that would work.  The screws are cheap but the shipping for a $0.30 screw is a killer.  Who knows how many I would have to order?

 

I then decided to purchase a few screws #0, #1, and #2 from a local hardware store.  The #2 is definitely too large.  The #0 screws is definitely too small.  The #1 screws ALMOST fit but it slightly too small.  I tried using the #1 screw with Loctite, but it still falls out if any pressure is placed on it.

 

I don’t want to glue the cover on as I may need to get to the electronics.  Someone locally suggested Velcro but the area where the screw fits is very, very small.  Any suggestions as to what screw may work?  Where can I get such a screw?  Any other suggestions for keeping the plastic cover in place? 

 

Thanks for your help.  I need it!!

 

Jack

[mbinsewi]

I would take the tender body with me to the hardware store.  In their selection of Hilman fasteners and screws, you'll find something that will work.

Maybe do this before you try to force anything into place, and distort the lugs.

Mike.

[RR_Mel]

If it was my tender I’d try a #2 bottoming tap and use a #2 screw.  An alternative would use a small dob of Amazing Goop glue, it is somewhat removable used liberally.  Even in large quantities it’s removable with long nose pliers.  I use Goop for all kinds of odd gluing, it will adhere to almost any material and remains somewhat flexible.  It’s my “go to” for things like your tender top.   

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Overmod]

These will be small metric screws, in all likelihood.  If you do not have a convenient local source for these, then Mel's advice ... both kinds ... will be the most straightforward method of solving the issue you have.

Without seeing the specific fastening situation you have, it is at least possible that what you have is a sheet-metal type screw, with a sharp point and volute thread for biting into plastic rather than engaging a machined thread.  I am tempted to observe that a great many older electronic devices from Asia use these in various sizes, and a little judicious cannibalization will quickly produce something at least the right order of magnitude to work; you can shim the threaded recesses a bit (or use a little dab of some sort of glue) if the threading doesn't quite engage right...

I might also be tempted to convert this to magnetic securement by attaching small NIB magnets in drilled holes where the screws threaded in, and putting a small ferromagnetic plate or tabs in the edge of the cover.

[bogp40]

Dabs of glue or RTV will work as mentioned. If you can not find any type of screw to replace the original, you can glue styrene blocks in the shell and drill through tender floor for location and drill/ tap and clearace drill for mounting.

[BigDaddy]

It's amazing to me that I can take apart something, put all the parts in a box and some of those parts go AWOL.

I have a 2mm tap, which I never used, maybe from my RC Heliocopter days.  I also have a 2x56 tap that I use all the time for coupler installations.

1. a 2mm screw is 0.078 OD
2. a #2 screw is 0.086

A general hobby store with lots of RC might have 2mm

Depending on how much meat you have on the tender part, you may be able to glue in a styrene rod (which you can make with a drill and sandpaper) and drill it out for a screw you have.

 

[floridaflyer]

I would use clear caulk to adhere the top. Easily removed if necessary. A dab here and there should work, but use whatever amount is necessary to secure the top

[doctorwayne]

If the screw is just slightly too small for the existing hole, slip a piece of .010"x.020" strip styrene into the hole, then add the screw.  This leaves the screw removeable, although you may have to add a new strip of plastic each time you re-assemble things.

Wayne

[dknelson]

I keep an old cigar box flled with small screws of every size that I have saved when otherwise throwing away various items, including bashed trains, toys, electrical stuff, old clocks and watches, you name it.  Sometimes small screws come with the packaging, as with certain brands of HO vehicles.  I save those.  Somewhere in there there is usually something that fits.  

Dave Nelson

[zstripe]

starman

The #1 screws ALMOST fit but it slightly too small.  I tried using the #1 screw with Loctite, but it still falls out if any pressure is placed on it.

Small in diameter or length? Was the screw a machine screw? Or coarse thread? Into plastic or to metal flat weight? If screw was small in diameter, you may be able to stick a piece of heat shrink tubing into the hole and then tighten. If not the whole diameter of the heat shrink, just a portion of it. What I have done in past is just use self tapping screws in the hole, metal or plastic. They have self tapping screws for plastic/metal in all kinds of small sizes 0, 00, 000 #1 , 1mm, #1 1.37mm and they go all the way up. What You need to do is find out what size the hole is and go from there. Then You can Google self tapping screws for plastic's and take Your pick. I have sucessfully used brass self tapping screws for many lost screws, even though they were for metal, going into plastic. You'll know it won't work, if it gets tight too fast, without seating the head of the screw.

Good Luck! 

Frank