Gluing a metal model together

[Omaha53]

I am assembling an old metal kit of a Publicker Chemicals tank car. The kit suggests using Ambroid glue by applying a thin coat, letting it dry, add more glue and position the parts. I am not familiar with Ambroid glue. It sounds like a type of contact cement. Is it still available? Would CA be better?

The parts fit together pretty well but there are slight gaps. Would a medium or thick CA be better than the thin CA? Are medium or thick CA as strong as the thin stuff?

[dknelson]

I never had much luck with Ambroid glue on metal kits; it does work (or did when it was made) well on wood and paper or cardstock.  For all I know it is a cellulose based product. It looked like it.    Ambroid began as a glue maker and issued their famous wood kits as a way to sell more glue, after all.  The problem I had using it with metal is suggested by the instructions you quote - it seems to take a lot of glue to do the work and thus the joint is not close and tight enough because there is so much Ambroid in the joint.  The joints seemed brittle.

I think back in the glory years of metal kits, such as the old Ulrich hopper cars and the original Model Die Casting cast zinc freight cars, most guys used two part epoxy which might seem old fashioned and a bother but is still a very effective adhesive.

Depending on the kit the very thin liquid CAs might not be best for metal kits because the gaps between parts may be a bit too irregular to let capillary action do its magic.  If the fit seems tight I'd try it.   Medium or zap a gap type CAs should work - they might be a bit less strong than the thin liquid but if you avoid using an accelerator (in other words, be patient with each freshly glued joint) it should be OK.  I would even explore good (well ....) old (oh yeah) Walthers goo if used from a fresh tube (so it is at its most liquid) and used the way they suggest, as a contact cement on both surfaces, and don't overdo the quantity.  Some guys even "solder" a goo-ed joint by applying heat.  The odor is less pleasant than coffee and bacon by a long shot of course.

I have yet to try gorilla glue.

Dave Nelson

[RR_Mel]

When I’m assembling something like that I use a CA Gel.  The Gel usually takes a bit longer to setup but works for me.  I use a toothpick to feather the Gel like putty to fill the gaps.

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Lee 1234]

Loctite Super Glue Gel Control.   

[Omaha53]

Thanks for the info. I think I'll give the Loctite Super Glue Gel Control a try.

[zstripe]

Omaha53,

I build a lot of 1/87 white metal, pewter, polyurethane resin castings kits. I also use a lot of brass scratch parts, styrene, ABS, music wire parts that are assembled in the same vehicle. I use nothing but Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ for all of it. Brass to styrene will stick instantly so you have to be careful about setting that. I have been building these models for a very long time and have built some for others. No one ever had any complaints about parts falling off due to bad adhesive. Like most delicate things you have to be careful in handling.

I have noticed on this forum that a lot of people say to use an accelerator for a quicker bond.....It is fine for some things.....But! Refrain from using it......It does weaken the bond. It even states that on the container.

When I do any model....I do all the cleaning up of flash, drilling holes, filing first....then I wash the parts, with warm dish detergent water, then glue with the CA. All cast parts, no matter what material have a mold release agent on them, that should be washed off before glueing/painting.

Good Luck, be patient! 

Frank

[UNCLEBUTCH]

I wash with Dawn dish soap, then Loctite gel. Have good luck with this method

[SeeYou190]

Lee 1234

Loctite Super Glue Gel Control.

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I also think this is the best option.

.

-Kevin

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[snjroy]

I have used CA succesfully on white metal (including the Keystone Shay kit), but many swear by epoxy. Apparently, an epoxy bond will last much longer than CA, but I would not know first hand.

Simon

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

What about hot glue?

A dual temp glue gun will put out a bead of glue at a low enough temperature to not damage the metal parts, have a slightly longer set time and any flash can be trimmed with a sharp #11 blade. 

Another option might be clear silicone caulk.

It is an inexpensive option that can be found at hardware stores, big box stores and some super markets; in tube form, so you don't have to purchase a caulk gun.

Silicone caulk cleans up with a rag and hot water.

Again, use sparingly with minimal cleanup.

Hope this helps.