Dear All,
What is the best GP3x, or GP40 model to start a detailing project with?
I am aware that the replies are subjective and represent own opinions. So please do not start a war of beliefs.
Regards
Walid
I think Atlas has the best GP40. I'm not sure, but newcomers like Scale Trains might fit in too, but I don't know what they offer.
Take a look at this list, it's 3 years old, but it's from a good source.
http://dieseldetailer.proboards.com/thread/16499/most-dimensionally-accurate-scale-locomotive
Mike.
My You Tube
khierWhat is the best GP3x, or GP40 model to start a detailing project with?
I have several of the old Life-Like Proto 2000 GP 30s and I think they are an excellent value. You can still find the undecorated ones on Ebay or train shows and they make a good kitbash/detailing starting point since they are unpainted and many of the details are packed loose in a bag so you can do your modifications easily.
Many of the older ones will have the split gear problem but that is an easy fix and you would probably want to go over the mechanical works anyway.
Just my 2¢
Thank You, Ed
Get one that's got a good reputation mechanically. I'd hate to put a lot of effort into detailing the shell only to have the guts fail on me. My Proto GP9s are good looking engines that have run fine ever since I replaced the cracked axles.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Athearn BB - They run forever!
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I would go with the Athearn Bluebox GP40-2 if'n ya can find one. Great mechanism and ready to detail. I have done some of their GP38-2s and had a blast.
I will agree the Athearn BB or RTR GP38-2 or GP40-2s are good starting points but,we shouldn't overlook the Atlas Trainman GP38 either with its superior drive.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Speaking of drives, I have a couple of used Bachmann GP40 that I got through EBay. They look exactly the same. However, the one is quieter, smoother and slower, the other runs more rough, fast and makes clear humming noise. They are still DC. I hope the running qualities of the louder one will improve with DCC.
khier Speaking of drives, I have a couple of used Bachmann GP40 that I got through EBay. They look exactly the same. However, the one is quieter, smoother and slower, the other runs more rough, fast and makes clear humming noise. They are still DC. I hope the running qualities of the louder one will improve with DCC. Regards Walid
If they run poorly on DC, they will be just as bad, or worse, on DCC.
You need to fix the running issues on DC before even attempting to convert to DCC.
DCC is not a magic cure for poor running characteristics...
ricktrains4824 .....a magic cure for poor running characteristics...
.....a magic cure for poor running characteristics...
Actually it should improve it abit since in DCC the motor is controlled via PWM in contrast to analog voltage in standard DC.
khier ricktrains4824 .....a magic cure for poor running characteristics... Actually it should improve it abit since in DCC the motor is controlled via PWM in contrast to analog voltage in standard DC.
As a DCC user, sorry, no, it does not improve running characteristics as much as people think it does.
Whie it does help to a very minor extent, on a few units, it is not a magical cure-all to make locomotives run better.
Many will actually be worse on DCC due to the way DCC control works, as it must have excellent power pick up to work.
Power or drivetrain issues on DC need to be fixed before you attempt to convert to DCC.
This is why most DCC users, including myself, will test a unit on DC to make sure it runs well before even attempting any conversions.
ricktrains4824This is why most DCC users, including myself, will test a unit on DC to make sure it runs well before even attempting any conversions.
This is the reason I'm staying with Atlas,P2K,IM and a select few Athearn RTR.
Here is a short summary of the differences between PWM as in DCC, and normal DC (not my words BTW):
Power efficiency The induction of the motor will cause the current to average. At the same time the transistors in PWM mode have very low impedance and therefore a low voltage drop and low power dissipation. In case of a series resistor a lot of power is dissipated in the series resistor.
Speed control behavior With PWM the motor will 'see' a very low power supply impedance, even though the power supply is constantly switching between high and low voltages. The result is that the motor has a much higher torque. With a series resistance the motor will experience a very weak power supply and it will be easy to stall the rotor.
Control circuit For a control electronics (eg. a microcontroller) it is very easy to switch on/off transistors. Outputting an analog voltage or controlling a series resistor requires much more expensive circuitry and in turn will cause more power dissipation.
I also agree with mrB and others that whatever unit you select to put all the hours and hard work into, that you stat with a quality drive.
I would recommenend Atlas for the GP40, excellent drive and shell already has fantastic detail. I have over 20 Atlas Geeps that have been run and run for countless hours for shows and open house. Not a single one has given me any problems in all the years of use.
One of the first Atlas Master series, minor mods and detailing. The Chessie rock pilot stands out (Detail West amd Overland pilot details)
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Thank you all for your feedback. OK, to. summarize the ranking is as follows:
1-Atlas
2-Athearn BB (what is the equivalent nowadays?)
3-Life-Like (pre-Walthers?)
4-Any other already detailed shell, like Kato, Genesis, BLI,....etc.
I would add the Athearn Genesis GP38-2 and GP40-2 in undecorated if you can find them, great starting point and a lot of extra parts are included for many of the prototype versions.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!