Wolf359 snjroy Weight counts, that's for sure. I was also able to improve performance by changing the motor and by adding all-wheel pickups on the tender. My Jupiter is the only remaining loco that I had as a kid and that is still operational. The only issue I have is the front pilot wheels. They get caught up in some of my turnouts. Otherwise, it remains a favorite... Simon I've alwasy been a fan of the Jupiter too. It almost sounds like your pilot wheels or the turnouts might be out of gauge, have you tried an NMRA standards tool on them to check the gauge? Or, if there is something else wrong with the wheels it may be possible to get a new set. I know Bachmann still makes the Jupiter, if that's the brand of yours.
snjroy Weight counts, that's for sure. I was also able to improve performance by changing the motor and by adding all-wheel pickups on the tender. My Jupiter is the only remaining loco that I had as a kid and that is still operational. The only issue I have is the front pilot wheels. They get caught up in some of my turnouts. Otherwise, it remains a favorite... Simon
Weight counts, that's for sure. I was also able to improve performance by changing the motor and by adding all-wheel pickups on the tender. My Jupiter is the only remaining loco that I had as a kid and that is still operational. The only issue I have is the front pilot wheels. They get caught up in some of my turnouts. Otherwise, it remains a favorite...
Simon
I've alwasy been a fan of the Jupiter too. It almost sounds like your pilot wheels or the turnouts might be out of gauge, have you tried an NMRA standards tool on them to check the gauge? Or, if there is something else wrong with the wheels it may be possible to get a new set. I know Bachmann still makes the Jupiter, if that's the brand of yours.
Hi there. The issue is with the frogs. I have a few long turnouts (with long frogs) and the tiny wheels of the Jupiter sometimes get caught in them. There is one particularly offending one, but I have an alternate route that I can use, so it's not a major issue. I considered changing the wheels, but I kinda like the idea of keeping the piece as original as possible...
Wolf359 For anyone experiencing electrical contact issues with lightweight locomotives that are too small to add internal weights to, I've discovered something that can help. My HO scale Bachmann 4-4-0 Jupiter locomotive was too light and sputtered when my track started to get dirty, and the headlight flickered a lot. Especially on track joints. As the electrical pick-ups are on the tender and the tender was too light dispite having the motor in it, I added peel and stick weights for pinewood derby cars that can be cut to size to an inconspicuous area on the underside of the tender. I bought them at HobbyLobby and they're made by Revell, but I'm sure other companies make them too. I only added one small piece of the weight and the difference is like night and day. You'd never know it was there unless you turn the locomotive completely upside down. I hope this proves helpful to anyone else having this problem.
For anyone experiencing electrical contact issues with lightweight locomotives that are too small to add internal weights to, I've discovered something that can help. My HO scale Bachmann 4-4-0 Jupiter locomotive was too light and sputtered when my track started to get dirty, and the headlight flickered a lot. Especially on track joints. As the electrical pick-ups are on the tender and the tender was too light dispite having the motor in it, I added peel and stick weights for pinewood derby cars that can be cut to size to an inconspicuous area on the underside of the tender. I bought them at HobbyLobby and they're made by Revell, but I'm sure other companies make them too. I only added one small piece of the weight and the difference is like night and day. You'd never know it was there unless you turn the locomotive completely upside down. I hope this proves helpful to anyone else having this problem.
A Star Trek NG fan I see by the avatar name (battle with the Borg).
Back on topic
Improving lightweight locomotive performance
The subject you are asking about has been addressed over the years in various magazines including Model Railroader IIRC.
Adding weight is something people occasionally want to do, but you don't want to do it willie nilly. Maybe someone can chime in but you want to check the amp draw on the motor as you add weight; basically you don't want to over load the motor is what I recall. So add weight but be educate yourself on what might be too much.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I use 1/16" thick lead sheet. It is easy to cut into whatever shape is needed, and where space permits, I use several layers to fill the available spaces. I have always ordered mine online but if you have a decent roofing supplier in your area they will probably have it in stock as it is used as flashing. I use 'Glooz-It' to hold it in place. At first I tried using gel CA but I found that it didn't stick very well to the lead.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Doc Wayne does mention it in one of his links, but getting the locomotive balanced with equal weight distribution on both sides of the centre point of the drivers also helps.
the Bear
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I simply cast my own to suit each particular application, using old wheel balancing weights as feed stock. Most garages recycle them, but, in my experience, will gladly give them away if you ask nicely.
There's some info HERE on making your own weights, and more HERE on adding weight to the Athearn Mikado.
This brass switcher, given to me by a friend because it "wouldn't pull enough cars" weighed 9.75oz. (loco only) when I got it.
I added all-wheel pick-up to both loco and tender, and replaced the magnets in the open-frame motor with rare earth magnets from MicroMark. I also added some weight to both loco and tender, and it will pull at least 20 cars (some fairly free-rolling, others somewhat less-so) on level track, including around curves.
Current engine weight is 13.25oz., while the tender, with a "live" coal load and some additional lead in its cistern, tips the scales at 7.5oz.It also moves without hesitation over all of the unpowered Atlas frogs on my layout.
And in case anyone wonders, yes, I did offer it back to the original owner, but he'd already replaced it with two ex-B&O 0-8-0s from United.
Wayne
I have been getting stick-on lead weights from eBay.