I notice that there is a rectangular impression molded on the Athearn BB F7 lower headlight. My idea would be to flush cut the headlight and then use .010 or .020 styrene material cut to fit that rectangular area glued in place, followed by careful sanding with 220 or 400 grit garnet paper. On the interior directly behind it I would cut a second piece to cover the hole and paint it black to ensure no light bleed- although I will use a 3mm LED in the remaining upper headlight opening. Any thoughts?
Cedarwoodron
Looking at Railpictures.net, that rectangular thing is a door. Some RR had a light, some had an emblem and some just had the door. EDIT I missed the F9 part. Found a KSC with a light, but everything else I looked at was just the door.
I'd be tempted to try Squadron Putty on the front. If I did patch it with styrene on the front, I would just use a dab of 5 min epoxy on the inside and paint that black.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
cedarwoodronI notice that there is a rectangular impression molded on the Athearn BB F7 lower headlight.
From what I understand, on the F7, that is a door, and that lower light, is the actual headlight, with the upper light, being the mars light.
F9's had the same arrangement, depending on the road. Some had just the upper light, some had both.
Mike.
My You Tube
At one point, Athearn made shells with and without the lower light.
It is a railroad by railroad thing. Some adopted Mars lights early, some never did. Some were original, some added later.........
All F units started with a door on the front..........second light or not.
Two lights or one, is not specific to F7's or F9's.
Sheldon
So maybe just leave both as is and use 2 LEDs, without any modification?
Cedarwood Ron
Unless you are trying to match a specific prototype, sure, why not?
cedarwoodron I notice that there is a rectangular impression molded on the Athearn BB F7 lower headlight. My idea would be to flush cut the headlight and then use .010 or .020 styrene material cut to fit that rectangular area glued in place, followed by careful sanding with 220 or 400 grit garnet paper. On the interior directly behind it I would cut a second piece to cover the hole and paint it black to ensure no light bleed- although I will use a 3mm LED in the remaining upper headlight opening. Any thoughts? Cedarwoodron
I believe a few years back Norfolk Southern updated some F9s for their executive train; part of the work done included removing the nose doors from the A units. Unless you're modelling one of those F units, you'd want to leave the door in place, as every F unit from FT to F9 had them...as did (I believe) all E-units.
I bought some Athearn F-7 shells from a friend who had decorated and detailed them for the New York Central...apparently before realizing he'd used a two-headlight shell for the A unit when all NYC F's only had the upper light. I was able to get around it by just carefully sanding down the extruding part of the clear plastic headlight until it was flush with the body (or as flush as I could do without damaging the paint) then painting it flat black like the body.
However, if you're just starting the project, be easier to just get a single-headlight undec F-7 shell - or better yet, a Highliners shell and make your own F9. I did that to create and F-2 and it worked out well.