Thanks for the input. I have a wheel gauge and didn't even remember to check the wheel sets. Maybe over the weekend.
Sometimes the flanges are deeper on plastic wheels.
AltoonaRailroaderI'm glad I resolved this problem simply, I'm just not fully understanding the problem. Are plastic wheels more forgiving and metal wheels are not and need the most perfect track work possible?
A few things occur to me. It might be that plastic wheels do absorb a tiny bit more of an impact from a rough rail joint or slightly mismatched track height issue and thus roll through it more smoothly. It cannot be a huge difference, but then consider how much more comfortable it is to stand for a long time on a wood or lineoleum floor than on concrete or tile, even though they are all "hard" surfaces.
Second, it might be that changing that particular wheel to another metal wheel, i.e., just a different wheel, might have improved things too. Even if it passes the NMRA standards gauge test there can be tiny little variations that make a difference. Many of us - maybe all of us? - have had the experience of a chronic derailing car where the problem is resolved just by turning it around, or coupling it to a different car. As the great philosopher Kitty Kallen sang, "Little Things Mean A Lot." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C7SzKv2uLU
Third it might be that simply by replacing the wheel you might also have tugged a bit on the truck and made it more flexible and forgiving than it was.
But the main thing is that the problem was resolved with experimentation.
Dave Nelson
The axle lengths may be different so the plastic wheel set may have hit the track differently.
- Douglas
mbinsewiI don't think so. There is something there with the track work, maybe slightly out of gauge, just in that spot, and/or, the metal wheel set was slightly of gauge, or maybe the way the car is reacting to the car(s) it's coupled to. You have to get real up close, and watch what happens, and what's causing it.
As Mike notes, the only change you made was not metal to plastic wheels. In addition, did you just change the wheelsets on the car w/o removing the truck(s)? If not, the truck adjustment is another change that occurred. There are other possibilities as well. Your one change does not indicate that plastic wheels are better, nor metal wheels for that matter. It's somewhat like concluding a certain car make & model is good or bad basis one owner's experience, just one data point. Now if we could get Consumer Reports to study reliability of such MR issues...
If you have identical cars, it would be interesting also to try the offending wheelsets on another car, or the other truck on the car that was acting out.
For those still laying / changing track, I would note that it may be good practice to know which are your somewhat finnecky locos and cars on moderately ok but not great trackwork. Using these as testers for newly laid or adjusted track is a good way to ensure you have identified and addressed weak areas adequately.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
AltoonaRailroaderAre plastic wheels more forgiving and metal wheels are not and need the most perfect track work possible?
I don't think so. There is something there with the track work, maybe slightly out of gauge, just in that spot, and/or, the metal wheel set was slightly of gauge, or maybe the way the car is reacting to the car(s) it's coupled to. You have to get real up close, and watch what happens, and what's causing it.
I have had situations like that, I take that car out of service, and while the train continues it's way, short one car, I give the car a complete once-over. Everything from the height and swing of the coupler, the way the truck mounts and swivels, and the wheel sets.
Mike.
My You Tube
Good afternoon,
I had a strange but good experience the other day I'd like to share and maybe someone can explain this to me a little more than I understand it.
First off I really like metal wheel sets and I try to put them on every piece of rolling stock I have, I like the looks and the click clack of the metal on metal as the trains go around.
But the other day I kept having a problem with a coal hopper that kept jumping the track at the same place everytime it went around when ALL the other cars, in that train at least, didn't have a problem, same car, same truck, same wheel, same spot.
As an after thought about why this was happening I decided to switch back to plastic wheels on this particular car. And lo and behold that car went right past that spot every time and has for the last few sessions. I also made sure it was in the same spot in the train.
So what gives? The turn is a piece of flex track soldered, unfortunately, right about the middle of the curve. I've tried to make sure that that joint is as square as can be and like I said, all of my other stock rolls right around it no poop with metal wheels.
I'm glad I resolved this problem simply, I'm just not fully understanding the problem. Are plastic wheels more forgiving and metal wheels are not and need the most perfect track work possible?
Perplexed. :)