Hello,
I would very much appreciate any feed back on this post. I am creating a display of church models, mostly in the scale of HO. I want to light them so the stained glass will be illuminated. A few of them I can use a 5 watt LED candelabra socket that will work fine (low heat) I have the Vollmer Cathedral which is a very nice kit. I want to adequately light the sanctuary and the entry and also direct lighting upward towards the bellfry. This display is not going to be on a train layout but will be on a platform that sits on a table. If possible can someone recommend what would be the best lighting and a good source to purchase. I would like to use 110 lighting but if a small transformer has to be used, I understand that also. Thank you for your time.
CHARTER MEMBER OF THE MILWAUKEE FALLEN FLAG MODEL TRAIN CLUB . I COLLECT HO, N , O-3rail & On30 Trains & run them ! I Use KATO HO & N scale Track . I also Use Lionel Fast Track ! I change track layouts Often !
I personally prefer small incandescent bulbs for structure lighting. They give a softer, more yellow glow than LEDs, although they take more power and generate more heat. I typically use 16-volt grain-of-wheat bulbs, but I run them at 12 volts, which gives much longer bulb life and a softer look. I power them with small 5-amp 12 volt power supplies, available online (from China) for a few dollars. One is probably enough, but you should get a fuse block and some fuses because these supplies don't have circuit breakers, and a short could turn them into an ugly black paperweight.
Building kits are typically hollow. I prefer to add some interior floors and walls to break up the lighting and allow some rooms to be dark while others are illuminated. Plastic kits often have thin walls. This can be a problem, as the interior ligthing will cause the walls to "glow." I've found that cutting pieces of card stock to fit the walls, with the windows cut out, will effectively block this glowing effect. For many of my buildings, I print wall patterns, wood, cinder block or wallpaper, on the card stock before cutting it, which gives the viewer something to see through the windows and doors.
Here is a picture of the back of a building with floors and walls, and some interior "wallpaper." This building is very thick plastic, so glow-through is not a problem. I try to keep the light bulbs above window level so they are not visible directly from normal viewing height.
From the front, the use of multiple lights and interior structure makes the building look busy and occupied. For this one, I used a lot of window shades and Venetian blinds from City Classics, also, plus some cheap figures inside.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I did paint the walls black and then white, I hate to see light glowing through the walls.
nice job with the building. Thank you
WRGMILWHi There Check into the Woodland Lighting system
This is a very good suggestion. I think applications like yours are ideal for the WS system.
https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/JustPlugLightingSystem
It's a bit pricey, but if you aren't already familiar with doing low-voltage lighting in models, it doesn't have much of a learning curve and you can get started quickly.
The view into the structure's windows is better if your structure has floors inside it. With no floors, the view into a second floor window shows a gaping hole going clear down to the basement. Give the floors a coat of paint of a "floor color" and they will look fine. Nor do you want the lamps to show in the windows, which means you want the lamps on the ceiling. I consider 110 volt juice too much of an electric shock hazard to use in model structures. I light structures with 16 volt grain of wheat incandescent lamps, which I run on 12 volts (AC or DC, bulbs don't care) which makes them last forever, saving the hassle of bulb replacement. I use old 12 volt wall warts or old train power packs for lamp power. I use copper sticky tape (used for edging stained glass, available from crafty places like hobby lobby or Michaels) for power distribution inside the structure. It sticks in place and doesn't show thru the windows. I solder the lamp leads directly to the copper tape. Small bits of plastic or brass tubing with the lamp leads run thru them support the lamps on the ceilings. Since incandescent lamps run hot you don't want the lamp bulb touching plastic.
I paint the interiors in a light color to avoid the structure glowing in the dark. A light color will make more light show in the windows than a dark color. I plug any light leaks around structure joints. Should I need to remove a structure to the workbench, or back to storage, or just to another location, it is nice to be able the disconnect the entire structure by merely undoing two wires (plus and minus).
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
If you go with led's, there are bright white (blueish) and warm white. You want warm.
I'm not used to seeing led's expressed in watts. 5 sounds like a lot.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley