Alright, so I've put on 4 decals already, which are the 2 big NS logos, and the "Norfolk Southern" wording underneath those decals. I have also put the numbers underneath the side window of the SD40.
I did this by painting over the existing NW logo by using masking and black paint. Now my only problem now is getting ride of the nose NW logo and cutting proper slits in the NS wing.
I will try to post photos later when I'm done with my homework.
Edit: Anyone know where I can buy the detail parts for a remote control unit? The train I'm modeling has the weird platform with the two antennas on the roof, as well as 2 beacons.
Sorry for complicating it, but you will need to repaint once the lettering is off, because the underlying paint will be gone too...
As will most glue joints, so you might as well disassemble it now.
It will be easier to paint over the lettering, but that will cause a "patch out" effect, and will not look right for what you are trying to replicate. (Yes, you will notice the paint color difference.)
Sorry, but you might as well just do it the complicated way to start with, as that will be the way you end up doing it anyways.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
lazyfortress I don't want to fully take apart the locomotive for a somewhat-simple lettering removal and replacement.
What you propose is not necessarily simple.
Some people claim to be able to use a xacto chisel blade and remove only the lettering. My hand is not that steady.
Some people use a pencil eraser. I found it also take paint off any high spots, like hinges and leave lettering in the seems at the doors.
Solvaset or Micro sol applied to the lettering, followed by a piece of scotch tape, which lifts off the lettering...........no
90 Isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip. A q-tip is round and lettering has sharp corners or little bits like the middle arm of an E. More than the letter comes off, for me.
Isopropyl alcohol (which comes in 2 strengths and you want the strongest) will remove all the paint. It may loosen some of the glued on pieces. Tehre are other commercial, model paint removers, I haven't used those.
Then you have to repaint, apply a gloss coat, apply your decals, apply dullcote, without frosting your window glazing. Modern models, have window trim, painted a different color, windshield wipers and a lot of delicate stuff.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I just found out that the lettering is painted on my locomotive. What's a good product to remove paint? I don't want to fully take apart the locomotive for a somewhat-simple lettering removal and replacement.
On removing the old...
Most models that are factory finished do not have decals, but, rather, paint in its place.
As you will need to repaint the entire unit, I would fully disassemble, strip old paint, detail (minus grab irons) repaint, seal the paint with gloss finish, decal, then seal that with semigloss finish, then re-add on the lights, handrails and grab irons.
On weathering with chalks, I really prefer PanPastels instead, as they work well and have a little more "stickiness" than plain chalks.
Panpastels will go on lighter if you sealed the loco prior to weathering with gloss, or semigloss as opposed to flat finish.
And, a final sealing after weathering of clear flat will seal the weathering, and will tone it down slightly, however, PanPastels will stick to the model, and endure minor light handling without wiping off.
If you don't want to remove the grab irons, cut out that section of the decal and paint it with a brush during final finishing.
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-Kevin
Living the dream.
If I were going to re-decal and re-detail that locomotive, I'd take it apart, strip the paint and lettering, and remove the grabirons, too. After you've done the re-detailing, you can do the new paint and lettering. Then, re-install the grabirons (or new ones)... they can be easily painted using a brush.
Wayne
Hi Nathan,
See the post below. I found it on a google search (sometimes easier than finding it here). He asks the same question and gets some good answers.
Gary
lazyfortress My main problem is being able to apply the NS decals over the grab irons: See those grab irons on the left side of the Norfolk Southern logo on the front? My HO SD40 has those grab irons, and I don't know how to apply the decal without removing the grab irons. Any ideas?
My main problem is being able to apply the NS decals over the grab irons:
See those grab irons on the left side of the Norfolk Southern logo on the front? My HO SD40 has those grab irons, and I don't know how to apply the decal without removing the grab irons. Any ideas?
Try cutting a slit in the decal. Apply it and "arrange" for the grab to go through the slit.
Ed
lazyfortressAlso, what's that platform-like thing to the right of the orange beacon on the above picture?
There's one on the other side, too. See the 2 little antenna's on it? That, and the beacons, mean it's set up for remote control.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/468503/
According to the comments on this picture, it's a Leslie S5T horn.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/636109/
Mike.
My You Tube
Hello everyone! I got my first model locomotive today, an HO scale Athearn Norfolk Western EMD SD40 high-hood. I also bought some Norfolk Southern Decals for my SD40. Those decals should be arriving tomorrow as soon as I get home from school.
The problems right now are:
Question 2:
So the NS SD40 I'm trying to model after is NS 1630. NS 1630 has a different horn placement, an AC unit on top of the cab, and 2 lights.
Does anyone know what kind of horn that is? Is it a Nathan P5 or a K5LA? I don't know my horns.
Also, what's that platform-like thing to the right of the orange beacon on the above picture? How can I put that on my HO SD40?
Also, what's a good chalk to use to replicate the weathering of NS 1630 on my HO SD40?
Any help and information is greatly appreciated!
Also, what's a good and cheap DCC power supply? Do I also need a controller?