Resurrecting old thread is common here so you are in good company.
I have no idea what the washers are for. I installed my couplers per how I mentioned in my earlier post. Standard #5 box with coupler in the front of the A unit and the #450 boxes in the back of the A and both ends of the B's. I used no washers.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Resurrecting an old thread because..I can, and I have a new relevant question.
I have a Stewart F-3 A & B. I have 2 sets of Kadee 450 couplers purchased at different times because the instuctions and contents are different.
One set (instructions dated 2001) comes with 2 small round washers, that are mentioned as contents but not in the instructions. The later set has no washes.
Darned if I can see where these washers are supposed to be installed.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Here is what I do with the Kadee #450 close coupling kit. It comes with a draft gear box with two positions to mount the couplers:
1) is for close coupling for the rear of the A unit and both end of the B units to get 3' distance coupling,
2) the other position is for use in the front mounting for the A unit to give more distance for the coupler and trip in to clear the pilot.
Now IMO, it's a waste to use the #450 draft gear box in the front of a Stewart A unit. You can simply trim the ears off of the Kadee #5 draft gear box and insert your coupler of choice into it (#5, #58 semi scale head, or whisker equivelents) and it will be at a good distance (not too close and not too far).
Using the standard #5 draft gear box in front free's up all the boxes that come in the #450 kit for use on the rear of A units and both end of B units. Basically you can close couple a Stewart ABA set with a single Kadee #450 kit, which normally people might just do an AB set with. To do an ABBA set, you would need 1 1/2 sets of Kadee #450 and you could use the left over draft gear boxes to do more Stewarts.
I totally agree, Kevin. I prefer the Kadee #58/#158 couplers so I use the #252 draft gear boxes on my Stewart F3s. They also give you the option of using either coupler hole (close or open coupling) with the #450 retainer clip.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have a suggestion... The 450 kit comes with #5 couplers and #30 draft gear boxes. I replace these with #148 whisker couplers in #252 draft gear boxes. The #252 boxes snap together and make assembly much easier.
.
The #252 boxes will also work with #158 scale head couplers if that is what you prefer.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thanks to both of you. Parts are ordered. Insturctions printed.
It probably has a coupler retainer clip that looks like part #11 in the following link:
http://www.bowser-trains.com/docs/instructions/F%20Unit.pdf
User a small pair of pliers to depress and disengage the retainer clip at the top then press the clip down and off the groove on the chassis.
As Lee mentiioned, the Kadee #450 conversion kit is what you need to add a Kadee coupler to a Stewart F3 or F7. If the fit of the new coupler clip is tight and doesn't push all the way up into the chassis groove, file the sides of the clip slightly with a file.
Lee
Just received a nice set of Stewart early B&O F7 A & B with horn hook couplers. I can not figure out how to remove them so I can replace with KDee couplers. Help please. I have looked at the on line diagrams.