OK, Rustoleum "Ultra Cover 2x Spray Paint" (especially primer) has become a near standard for modeling projects (I see it mentioned in numerous modeling articles, much like Floquil back in the day), since it's a pretty good product in terms coverage, smoothness, finish, etc.I use it a lot (including full scale items like walls and furniture- imagine that, it's not just for models!), but over the past year I have noticed an increased tendancy for nozzles on partially used cans to clog when I attempt to reuse them - These are the wide flatter nozzles BTW, not the older thin cylindrical ones. While I always test first to make sure the spray works, this still leaves the problem of lots of cans still having product but with clogged nozzles. Yes, I transfer working nozzles between cans to use (they are easy enough to remove), but eventually I run out of working nozzles as they clog up as well. Looking around on line, the nozzles are supposed to be self-cleaning (they are not); turning the cans upside down and spraying like old style cans to clear product doesn't seem to do anything (paint still sprays out upside down); and soaking in lacquer thinner doesn't seem to clean them either (the nozzles looked shiny but the insides I couldn't clean well).One suggestion on-line was to buy new nozzles...no, I don't think so.So what solutions does the MR collective have to offer?Thanks
It happened to ame with a can of the light grey primer I used to cover a bridge five years ago. I did invert the can and clear the small tip, and I always also wipe the tip clean with a clean paper towel. Went to use it a year later and could get nothing out of the essentially new and full can.
I've clogged my share of spray cans over the years and it is annoying, especially when there is still lots of paint in the can. Generally I turn the can upside down and spray a few seconds to clear the nozzle but like you say many of the modern cans will continue to spray even when upside down. As already mentioned, be sure to wipe the nozzle clean after each use. I haven't tried this but you might give it a shot. Remove the nozzle and insert a tooth in from the bottom to see if will absorb any paint still in the nozzle. I would use the kind that are blunt on one end and use that end so you can get as much paint as possible out. Like I say I haven't tried it but it might be worth a shot.
NYBW-John I've clogged my share of spray cans over the years and it is annoying, especially when there is still lots of paint in the can. Generally I turn the can upside down and spray a few seconds to clear the nozzle but like you say many of the modern cans will continue to spray even when upside down. As already mentioned, be sure to wipe the nozzle clean after each use. I haven't tried this but you might give it a shot. Remove the nozzle and insert a tooth in from the bottom to see if will absorb any paint still in the nozzle. I would use the kind that are blunt on one end and use that end so you can get as much paint as possible out. Like I say I haven't tried it but it might be worth a shot.
Would you recommend a molar or would a bicuspid work?
I noticed the same thing when the new line of "3-X" Rustoleum came along and the first time I tried to "clean the nozzle" by turning the can upside-down I found the same thing you did... it just keeps spraying.
There is a tiny passage behind the paint outlet that can only be accessed by prying out the little insert, which is very difficult to do. You can't just use a small wire (I keep some .005 music wire in a pin vice for the purpose) because this insert has a little "pin-wheel" pattern to it.
You CAN take the nozzles apart to clean but it is a real pain.
The only cure is "prevention"! You REALLY have to shake those cans! It seems the pigment stays in clumps and when a clump comes up the feed-tube that's all she wrote. I also notice that I get a better spray if I run the cans under hot** water for a little while before I use them. Then SHAKE some more.
I really had a hard time with a project last summer using about 2 dozen cans of their metallic paint. HALF the cans went back to Home Depot because they clogged immediately. I wrote to RPM who owns Rustoleum and complained but I just got the usual stock reply.
I still like Krylon. To me, it seems to go on thinner and, so far, they still use the older style of nozzle with the brass pin in it. At least I can clean those out easier.
I buy my Krylon through Amazon.
[edit] **by hot water I mean hot TAP water from your basin. NOT scalding water at boiling temperatures!
At least that's my experience,
Good Luck, Ed
chutton01 OK, Rustoleum "Ultra Cover 2x Spray Paint" (especially primer) has become a near standard for modeling projects (I see it mentioned in numerous modeling articles, much like Floquil back in the day), since it's a pretty good product in terms coverage, smoothness, finish, etc.I use it a lot (including full scale items like walls and furniture- imagine that, it's not just for models!), but over the past year I have noticed an increased tendancy for nozzles on partially used cans to clog when I attempt to reuse them - These are the wide flatter nozzles BTW, not the older thin cylindrical ones. While I always test first to make sure the spray works, this still leaves the problem of lots of cans still having product but with clogged nozzles. Yes, I transfer working nozzles between cans to use (they are easy enough to remove), but eventually I run out of working nozzles as they clog up as well. Looking around on line, the nozzles are supposed to be self-cleaning (they are not); turning the cans upside down and spraying like old style cans to clear product doesn't seem to do anything (paint still sprays out upside down); and soaking in lacquer thinner doesn't seem to clean them either (the nozzles looked shiny but the insides I couldn't clean well).One suggestion on-line was to buy new nozzles...no, I don't think so.So what solutions does the MR collective have to offer?Thanks
And I can't for the life of me figure out why, since Krylon products are so much better in terms of spray quality and plastic friendliness (assuming we're talking about a plastic model), probably the two most important aspects of painting models with rattle cans.
Who wants to cover the details with a primer first?
As far as unclogging the nozzle, a toothpick soaked with mineral spirits tends to open the nozzle..gently as to not deform the hole. You can also generally pull off the nozzle and soak the whole thing in a pool of mineral spirits and use a toothbrush. Or a combination of techniques also works.
- Douglas
Fear not, you are not alone. Myself (and numerous other modelers) have had this issue with Rustoleum for years. I looked for replacement nozzles at Lowes and Home Depot and could not find any (thanks to whoever posted the evil bay link).
Anyway, it didn't matter if I was spraying a primer, a paint or a matte finish, inverting the nozzle to clean or whatever, the nozzle clogged. Now, when I get done spraying, I remove the nozzle and put it in a jar with some paint thinner. Shake it around for a few seconds and leave it sit for a few minutes. Remove the nozzle from the jar, wipe off the excess and place back onto the can. Seemed to significantly reduce the number of clogs.
Terry
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
I use spray paint cans a great deal with my models, Krylon, Rustoleum and Walmart. The clogged nozzle is easily cleared by soaking in thinner or Super Clean for a bit. I caution on using wood toothpicks at either the base or spray hole of the nozzle, as just a bit of wiggling the toothpick point around may enlarge the pinhole and affect the spray pattern or the nozzles aperture. The clogs in the straw portion, where the throat of the spray can is are virtually impossible to clear, even with small brass wire- if the second use of the can is prevented by this type of clog and the can was only used once for a short time, it's easier to exchange it where you bought it for a fresh can.
I am very cautious about heating a pressurized metal can- no homeowners coverage will support a claim resulting from negligent practice!
Cedarwoodron
cedarwoodronI am very cautious about heating a pressurized metal can- no homeowners coverage will support a claim resulting from negligent practice!
I don't think warm water from a faucet will really pose much danger—however—I should have warned against it. Some of my modeling spray cans are stored in the basement where the temperature is sometimes in the 55° to 60° F range.
They seem to spray better for me after I warm them under running water.
Your mileage may vary... use EXTREME caution!!!
Ed
Not to hijack the thread, but, I overheated a can of Dulcoat, put it in hot water, ran up stairs to answer the phone, heard a pop kind of sound and ran back down to find the concave shapped bottom of the can now was bulging out. I discovered that's why the bottom of the can is shaped like it is. It didn't rupture, but the can will not stand up with a round bottom.
Mike.
My You Tube
Burst pressure in rattle can spray paint is: 180psi @ 130F.
Most people who have trouble with spray paint, don't shake it long enough and do not follow the adviseable temperture use.....It is on all can instructions. You also must remember, the propellant in all spray cans has been changed to more EKO friendly chemicals due to ozone. So the newer propellant needs more shaking to keep the pressure constant. A cooler can will have less pressure than a recommended temp. one that is normally around 70F.
Just look it up.....tons of info out there. Including tips for cleaning the nozzle.
Take Care!
Frank
My caution about heating spray paint cans is more about yokels who might use a microwave or the kitchen oven- a sure recipe for disaster. The funny thing- here in (usually) sunny mid Florida, we rarely have issues with cold spray cans stored in the garage. Bringing them into the house for an hour warms them back up to be directly usable. The shaking part-in terms of how long- is another issue, but the clogging of the can remains problematic across many brands. It seems that using a thinner or alcohol wetted q-tip rotated at the spray hole right after each use is a harmless way of clearing the nozzle face and allowing a bit of cleaning fluid to enter the spray hole as well.
I just googled clean a spray paint can nozzle with wd 40. There is a video with the heading Easy fix for clogged - spray can nozzle - fine homebuilding. I have not tried it but looks interesting. Take a look see what you think.