i'm starting to think about buildings for my layout and was thinking about how to cut square window openings. I did some searches and came across a nibbling tool which I happen to have (from Adel) and never really had a use for.
Is a nibbling tool a good way of cutting window opening with nice square corners?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Hi gregc:
Nibblers are excellent tools for cutting openings in styrene or brass. You can try to 'nibble' to the exact size but if you want a really accurate hole with perfectly straight sides then you should consider using the nibbler to cut the hole slightly undersize, and then finish it with a file. That is the preferred method for most users, and it is the best method when you are working with masonary windows that don't have any exterior trim. The problem with trying to nibble to the exact size is that the nibbler can cause a slight depression in the material immediately next to the cut. For windows with exterior trim, the trim will hide that, but for masonary windows or any windows in a smooth wall the deflection might be visible (not so much with a brick surface). It is also rather difficult to get successive cuts to line up perfectly.
Believe me, once you start using your nibbler you will fully understand why you bought it!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I bought one from MicroMark, and use it quite a bit when I am doing kitbashing. I drill a 1/4" hole in the middle of the opening, then square it up with an X-Acto knife to get the 'nose' of the tool through the plastic. I do the cutting over a wastebasket to catch the chips.http://www.micromark.com/nibbling-cutter,7761.html
As Dave said, the edges of the hole need to be cleaned up with a a file to fininsh the job.
I would avoid the powered nibblers for the small holes we modelers need. I feel they would cut too much too fast.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
I bought my nibblers from Radio Shack at least 10 years ago.If I remember correctly they were under $10.00 at that time.I' ve done windows and doors and notched things for clearance.
They are identical to the Micro Mark units and are worth the cost if your scratch building in styrene.I've never used them on sheet metal.
I've used them on styrene up to .080" thick.The only problem with plastic that thick it tends to clog the nibblers but a few quick pumps of the handle usually works it out so you can keep going.
Catt I bought my nibblers from Radio Shack at least 10 years ago.If I remember correctly they were under $10.00 at that time.I' ve done windows and doors and notched things for clearance. They are identical to the Micro Mark units and are worth the cost if your scratch building in styrene.I've never used them on sheet metal. I've used them on styrene up to .080" thick.The only problem with plastic that thick it tends to clog the nibblers but a few quick pumps of the handle usually works it out so you can keep going.
On my last scratch build project, I used the nibblers to cut into 0.040" styrene sheet. It was doable but a bit slow going because of the thickness of the styrene sheet, so I cannot imagine nibbling on 0.080" styrene sheet. This time around, I will try my hand on 0.020" styrene sheet and then reinforce it with some bracing on the inside of the structure.
Any thoughts?
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich,
Have You considered 0.030'' ABS sheeting instead of Styrene? It is more forgiving in cracking and cutting then Styrene. You still use the Plastruct Plastic Weld for it. I use it all the time. Evergreen and Plastruct both sell it. It is more bendable without cracking opposed to Styrene. White or Grey.
Take Care!
Frank
zstripe Rich, Have You considered 0.030'' ABS sheeting instead of Styrene? It is more forgiving in cracking and cutting then Styrene. You still use the Plastruct Plastic Weld for it. I use it all the time. Evergreen and Plastruct both sell it. It is more bendable without cracking opposed to Styrene. White or Grey. Take Care! Frank
Just like I tried to explain....ABS is more bendable than Styrene. You can bend a piece of ABS and it will go back to it's shape....almost. Styrene will crack or break before You bend it. It is also easier to cut. It is not as brittle as styrene simply put.
The angle shape on this arc for the bridge rocker was bent using ABS by just bending it with My hand. To get styrene angle to do that. You would have to heat it in warm water before bending or it will break.
All the white/grey parts and the c-channel that the brass pins are in, rt. angle, T-shape are all ABS. Bending them with styrene without heating them first, they would have got brittle or broke first.
Any downsides to using ABS plastic sheet?