Got a couple of finished resin vehicles out of storage. They were assembled and painted when purchased. Some of the wheels have fallen off. Do I need to file/sand the surfaces to be reglued?
Since I haven't ventured into building resin kits yet, I am thinking that I want to use the thick CA for my glue.
Also have one truck frame that is broken. Will the CA on the mating surfaces be enough to hold or do I need to a splint. If so, would a piece of styrene be a good choice of material?
Any and all sugestions will greatfully be received.
Thank you,
Richard
A question:
Should I/we assume that when you say "truck frame" you are referring to a vehicle frame, as opposed to a railroad truck sideframe?
Splints are always better than not-splints. IF you have a place to hide it. But not if it will show and look "stupid and ugly".
Rather than styrene for the splint, I'd consider brass. Or steel. Stronger is better. Or, looked at another way, it can be smaller. Which might be good.
One thing for sure: Before you try bonding resin pieces, they've gotta be CLEAN. I don't have a fave for that, but it's not an uncommon subject to pop up. So I'm sure someone here will have a suggestion.
Ed
Ed,
Yes, a motor vehicle truck frame. I can probably find a piece of steel that can be cut to fit out of sight, as long as CA will hold it together.
I plan to clean the surfaces with one of the products mentioned in other threads on resin kits. Guess my question is do I need to rough up the surface for better adhesion?
Are the wheels on axles or do they glue direct to the body in the fender openings?
If in the fender openings, you might want to file of sand away any excess old glue, if only to be sure the wheel sits square and true. Either CA Gel or 5 minute epoxy would work for repairing this type of wheel installation.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
cowman Guess my question is do I need to rough up the surface for better adhesion?
Guess my question is do I need to rough up the surface for better adhesion?
I would do it--it can't hurt and might help. Unless, of course, it's a, uh, great irritation. And/or better not done.
But:
Let's say I was going to splint and glue a longish piece that had snapped. I wouldn't sand it at the "snap-point". If the fit is really good. I WOULD sand where the splint would go.
Richard,
I build a lot of truck/tractor vehicle kits Polurthene Resin, white metal casting and Pewter. When I have to repair, lengthen or strengthten any of them....I use K&S 1/16th Brass c-channel, the smooth side against the inside repair or frame part. I sand the smooth side with 180 grit sand paper and use nothing but Zap Medium CA. There are other CA's out there, that work just as well, but I stick with Zap. You have to be careful when attaching to the part, because it will stick almost instantly to brass. If You want to use styrene 1/16th c-channel by Plastruct , you can, but it is not as strong.
It is not a good idea to glue CA to CA, they state that it won't work, I have done it on occasion, on certain projects, but it is always better to clean off or sand any prior CA, before redoing.
The Zap I use....is gap filing Medium + and I have added to it after cured and it holds and have even sanded it, but I don't know for sure, if all others are the same.
Take Care!
Frank
Mixture of Metal,resin, styrene kits:
Thank you all for the replies.
The wheels are glued to the body, not on axles.
Wasn't sure about whether CA would stick to itself or not. Will try to get all the old off and keep things square.
Nice collection of vehicles Frank. When you do a solid cast vehicle, do you use a particular color on the windows to make them look "right."
Will have to go to the LHS and see what he has for brass. Not something I have used before.
Thanks again,
cowmanNice collection of vehicles Frank. When you do a solid cast vehicle, do you use a particular color on the windows to make them look "right."
Thank You! Those are not even a 1/4 of what I built over the year's.LOL.
Solid cast resin Autos/Trucks?! Yuck! I try to stay away from those...mainly because all the trucks/autos I build I put interiors in them....at least seats, steering wheel and dash board, gear shift lever and most all are scracth built, except steering wheel, you can get castings of them and seats. I do have some solid cast resin truck kits that Magnuson used to make and used a translucent ultra marine blue over flat black, which does have a pretty good effect, but nothing beats clear acetate. That's a shame to, because there are some trucks by Sheepscot I like....like the International ''Hi- Binder'' Click on link, for photo:
http://www.sheepscotscale.com/site/2012/09/18/lettering-truck-bodies
I will get a couple anyway...just because I rode in them as a kid.